Teeson's Probege Build Thread

Hmm maybe it is called something different on these cars but I am speaking of the meter that is connected to your air intake tube from the throttle body, it is what the ECU uses to read how much air is entering the engine. If there is a leak of air after that meter weather it is in the air tube or an intake leak you will have idle issues, I am sure you have checked all these I am just thinking out loud hoping to help you think of something you may have missed.
 
Hmm maybe it is called something different on these cars but I am speaking of the meter that is connected to your air intake tube from the throttle body, it is what the ECU uses to read how much air is entering the engine. If there is a leak of air after that meter weather it is in the air tube or an intake leak you will have idle issues, I am sure you have checked all these I am just thinking out loud hoping to help you think of something you may have missed.

ya its a VAF on these cars... I wish it was simple. Its 99% not a vac leak. I'll have to find a way to prove that tomorrow.. maybe propane.
 
Is that the VAF you are speaking of that your friend was pushing? strange that there is a moving part on it and seemed to effect the engine since it went nuts on the last start up when he was pushing it in. That is what I was referring to when I said MAF which I am sure both terms mean the same thing as it is mounted on the intake to tell the ECM what air is entering the engine and with that info it will then adjust the fuel to suite. I feel the issue is related there but I will step back and follow your thread as I am not familiar with this system and don't want to misdirect you. I am sure with the vast knowledge here the answers will come, good luck.

Sean
 
Maybe the spring in your VAF is messed up and keeps pushing away, making your ecu think theres no air coming in, thus not idling
i'd do another try with a friend holding on that VAF like 1cm open, see if you can get an idle from there
 
It does the same thing with vaf unplugged.. I think something's telling the ecu to turn off right away. Maybe a pressure switch?
 
Try this first
Check your timing run a jumper wire to TEN to GND
2012-04-01133942.jpg

Test your timing
Jump ten to ground
Hook up timing light on cylinder 1 (back left [rear passenger])
Point to left side of the crankshaft pulley
2012-04-01134254.jpg

Its suppose to be close to 10

If that is good they turn the car off and turn it to run without starting and with TEN grounded
loosen your tps and turn it till your fans turn on
then turn it the other way very very slowly till your fans turn off you want it to be right before the fans kick on and your TPS will be good
 
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kk well I tried resetting the ECU like you said, I didn't have time to check the timing however. Me and my dad (journeyman) made sure the timing was good when we did the belt, it can't be off by more than a degree if its off. I'll check anyway tomorrow.

I'm beginning to think its grounds that got to the ECU, as I think something is losing communication with the ECU when the engine starts. I have seen it before when we test a ground at work with the car off and its 2 ohms. with the car on its 25 ohms, which causes issues with amps etc. Could this be the same thing?

I tried to get the ECU to use the OBD2 port on the protege, that didn't work. I might be missing a wire but the pinout for the ECU makes little mention of a ground for the port. Also makes me think I have a bad ECU...

I noticed the fuel pump stopped priming etc, so I grounded the wire on both sides and the pump now works with ignition. I also put all the powers to 12V constant to avoid the relay's being the problem, don't worry they're still fused.
tested all those wires, they're good for 12V all through start.
unplugged a bunch of sensors one at a time; best it would do is not start at all, just the starter would fire.

maybe I have a bad disty or ECU, but they both worked before I started the swap in the donor car... do they just go bad by sitting?

I need my car to get to work, and I'm going crazy because I can't figure it out; it has to be something simple.

on a side note I registered on probetalk, waiting for a mod to approve my membership. ya
 
check the power on all sensors to make sure there isnt a split in the wiring and grounds and maybe a spare ecu wouldnt be too bad to have
might be the dist they crap out, mine will actually just cut off while im driving not sputter or anything car just dies and i roll start it back up
im working on the hei mod with external coil

they could crap out if you accidently hooked a power to a ground and completed the circuit

just go over the basics fuel spark
if you get one work on the other

probetalk isnt the best community but there are quite a few ppl who have done the i4 to v6 swap and its just packed full of info if you can find it
if no one is giving you help over there ill point you to some good people

you can leave the wire in the TEN pin to GND pin and run your car its not suggested but if it wont start up like that then its timing or dist

did you adjust your tps?
 
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I'm gonna try the TPS tonight, I'd be suprised if the ECU or the disty went bad by sitting though...

I'm still waiting for approval from PT.

I'm going to check every connector tonight, maybe I have a bad connection somewhere.
 
Maybe the spring in your VAF is messed up and keeps pushing away, making your ecu think theres no air coming in, thus not idling
i'd do another try with a friend holding on that VAF like 1cm open, see if you can get an idle from there

I've tried starting it with out the VAF plugged in, and with the intake off, same result.

my latest suspect is the start signal wire. Ignition is working, but the ECU doesnt appear to know its starting, so when the VAF sends signal like it does when my dad pushed it, the ECU freaks out.
 
I think he was meaning to not allow it to fully close, it makes sense it would work with it unplugged being that is what should happen.
 
figured it out! My dad brought home a vacuum gauge, the engine wasn't holding any vacuum. Sooooo we looked around the engine for a leak... found a rather large one that vents right after the throttle plate. Plugged it up and it runs, not perfectly though, it has a bit of a rough idle. The HVAC system sounds like its leaking, I also had to re-seal the throttle body, as it was leaking.
So its working, I just have a couple things to fix, ala temp wiring and put the bumper and stuff back on. The batteries been outside the car, that will be fun to fit in the engine bay.

Does anyone know what this massive vac port is for? pics for reference:

IMG_3773.jpg

IMG_3774.jpg


It's already capped in these photos, is the thing the screw driver is pointing at. It is right behind the throttle body, not shown on any vac diagram, mind you neither does the HVAC line..

HUUUUUUGE thank you to all you guys for sticking through it, and keeping myself thinking... but I can remember this for next time, when it seems complicated, its probably simple.
 
I think that is PCV port
you are suppose to have a line run from the rear to your intake piping on the OBD1 I'm not sure about OBD2

did you plug your HVAC port on the back of your IM and I think there is a nipple hidden on your IM I would glance over everything really quick and see if you missed anything
 
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I think that is PCV port
you are suppose to have a line run from the rear to your intake piping on the OBD1 I'm not sure about OBD2

did you plug your HVAC port on the back of your IM and I think there is a nipple hidden on your IM I would glance over everything really quick and see if you missed anything

yes the HVAC nipple's plugged in, I can hear it leaking in the car not from the engine bay... kinda odd.
Where would that plug to on the other side? I'll have to do more researching...
 
in a few hours ill see what I can find on my laptop

I'm job blows, its so easy I don't do anything 90% of the time and I'm so ******* bored
 
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