Teeson's Probege Build Thread

[Jedidiah55]

Use the KL intermediate shaft and bracket (which is the proper name)
For running the hoses like that idk, I thought it was bad to do that, mine runs a little under cool in extreme heat so I just running the other way might keep your engines heat up in the cool.
Ill research that some more
For your fuel lines cut or disconnect the plastic p5 lines at the firewall, then run fuel injector hose from those lines to the KL hard lines on the IM
P5 hard lines on the firewall
Drivers side line is feed line
passenger side is return line
KL hard lines
Rear fuel rail line is feed
Front fuel rail line is return
Can someone confirm that? Ill send a pic later

 

[Jedidiah55]

My understanding is the drivers side coolant line on the engine is the intake and the passengers side is the return side
Radiators are usually the high side is the reutrn side the low side is the intake
My belief (I'm not a certified mechanic) is that the top of the radiator is the hottest part (thremophysics) and the bottom is the coolest. Therefore you will be pumping hotter than usually coolant.
Also if you are pumping on the high side and you are low on coolant you might be sucking up a lot of air which will kill your water pump. Another thought is if you pump from the top I think that will cause more strain on your water pump because, instead of pulling from the bottom where all the water on top "pushes" it to make it easier to pump easier you are having to "pull" all the water from the bottom.

 

[Teeson]

Thanx, ya I have the fuel lines marked. Do you know what size hose to use?

The big dilemma with the intermediate shaft is my 2.0 axle has a different spline count. They don't work with each other. It seems like somethings wrong because they won't even start. The protege's shaft has 30 splines and the axle itself has 28 but also two master spline holes. The proteges doesn't have the master splines but they still fit. The only thing I can think of is seeing if the proteges bolts to the KL.. Or buy a new axle or shaft.

Thanx again, your a huge help

 

[Lewis7789]

The PGT shift linkage does need some modifying, like you said. The length is right and it will bolt up to the trans but not to the Protege shifter without having to open the flange up a bit and use a smaller diameter bolt.

The intermediate shaft needs to be a KL shaft. There is a lot of gray area on which years fit up to which cars. On my JDM DE the 2000 Millenia intermediate shaft AND the JDM MX-6 3-bolt shaft both bolted up. A few of the cats with ZE swaps had to modify their brackets to make them work. But since you have a DE you should be able to just use a USDM KL shaft. But I'm not 100% positive.

Yay progress, mate!

I beat a MSP with full bolt ons, and 10.5 lbs of boost in mine. AND MINE IS STOCK! That should be reason enough. lol

Maybe I'm reading this wrong. Do you have a boosted KL P5 or were you referring to the MSP on 10.5lbs?

 

[Slotege5_2003]

MSP on 10.5lbs. I should have worded that differently.

 

[Teeson]

lol so I also misunderstood.

Success! I pressed the protege's shaft onto the KL's bearing and it fits, perfectly. I love my garage.

also have the KL's fan fit on the rad, so that one less wiring headache...

 

[ihone]

Seeing that radiator hose routing picture above - makes me wonder:

"....is this why mine keeps overheating and spewing it's coolant everywhere, ALL THE FCKING TIME!!!?!!!1!?"

 

[Lewis7789]

Wait a tic, you used the P5 half shaft on the KL mounting bracket?

 

[Teeson]

Wait a tic, you used the P5 half shaft on the KL mounting bracket?

Yes. I happen to have a press in my garage. Fit perfectly, spins fine. I'm very happy I didn't have to track down another shaft. I would recommend that option over hunting around too.
And man finding rad hoses to fit is difficult.. Onto the 3rd trip to the parts store today..

 

[ihone]

I did mine in about an hour tonight.

swapped them over to a configuration that allows the feed to always have pressure on it, that is - it's coming from the bottom of the radiator, and the return is shooting straight over to the top inlet (just like the picture above).

I only took it for about a 20 minute drive, but wow.....the temps were a bit lower than I'd expected, honestly. It's reading about 1/3 of my temp scale on the p5 dash gauge.

And as far as the jackshaft - I used a jackshaft from a PGT and made an adapter plate for it to bolt to, and that plate bolts to the block. It's kinda hokie, but I even put a wedged piece of steel in there for the jackshaft mounting bracket to sit flush against. Took about maybe an hour to fab up - easy as pie and the problem was solved.

 

[Jedidiah55]

I'm using p5 2.0L axle to KL intermediate shaft with modded bracket
And noted the P5 intermediate shaft fits KL bracket
And I think if you route the hoses the other way it could be problematic
My temp gauge is based off of my P5 temp gauge I swapped into my KL motor
My gauge says a little under 1/2
I wired my oil light up to my KL oil pressure sender and my light stays on (oil level is good) anyone else have there's wired up?

 

[Teeson]

My temp gauge is based off of my P5 temp gauge I swapped into my KL motor
My gauge says a little under 1/2
I wired my oil light up to my KL oil pressure sender and my light stays on (oil level is good) anyone else have there's wired up?

do tell how.

Well I have no spark. Fuel pump works perfectly, I just figured out most of my wiring was wrong, so disregard most of what I've said lol. I'll re-edit my posts to be correct later, but for now I'm gonna do a ton of research on the distributors.
Theres like 6 wires on one plug and 3 on the other connected to the distributor; does anyone know what each of these wires should test as?

 

[Teeson]

Well I'm due for an update. This is the end of day 3, I'm pretty much 90% to starting it.

Dropping in the motor:

Motor in, only took a while. The rear mount of these cars is one of the stupidest part of it, I can't believe how hard it was to change and then bolt up, even with the FS-DE...

Here's my helper dog Carter, he's not really helping, he just thinks that shop towels are a toy..

Here's how it sits today

How I ran the rad hose up top, gotta love the extender my dad came up with.

Not the best pic but here's how I did the power steering hard line. All I had to do was bend it a little more flat, new crush washers and it fits like a dream.

And heres the return line, the probe's line is 3/4 and the protege is 5/8. Brass coupler to mate them up, ran the 5/8 right to the bottom of the reservoir.

New fuel lines and heater core line. Generic 5/8 hose snaked around. Going to go to the junk yard tomorrow and try and get another 90 degree quick release, the straight line is reeeaallly close to the header.
Fuel lines were 3/8, I cut the quick releases off the proteges line and clamped new line to them, the other side to the KL lines.

My take on Jedidiah's throttle cable bracket. Was pretty easy, had to move the mount forward about 4 cm. Will probably remake it, as I learned I'ma horrible welder...

Probe fan mounted on the protege rad, little cutting, some quick brackets, extremely sturdy. Will have to do some wiring with it tomorrow. Also a look at the bottom rad hose. Ran out of clamps that fit, will be getting some tomorrow.

anyway, off to bed. Gonna sleep on the disty, I know it works, I know it didn't have any immobilizer or anything. Fairly certain I'm missing power and possible ground to the coil. Will document all my wiring when it works, promise lol

 

[Teeson]

I'm now stuck. everything works except it won't idle. just tried it without the VAF and it revved, then auto pinned the throttle. pulled the key out kept going, yanked the battery.

I must be missing power to something somewhere. don't think its the IAC, any other ideas?

 

[Jedidiah55]

There is a green with a red stripe wire that's the oil light wire on the p5 its hooked up to the wire from the oil pressure sender

And ill tell you how to tear down and rebuild a dist I need to get on my laptop
seeing how your swap going i assume your reassembled it correctly
but idk if you noticed for your dist to work you have to line the rotor and the part that sits in the crankshaft to the slot in back of the dist and the slot on the ring inside the gasket

once again sorry for the bad cell phone pics
on the back you want to use the side with the notch on the end
things my car needs to idle
power to
starter
fuel rail
fuel pump
ignition module
coil
ive ran mine without VAF, TPS, O2, crankshaft position sensor, knock sensor (idk how i managed that), FPR, VRIS, EGR (still no egr), no tranny hooked up, and maybe some more things

can you upload a video????? please
i can trouble shoot a little better
advice
marvel mystery oil in gas and in oil works like magic
go like 500 miles and change your oil if you didnt use expensive oil
and a radiator flush is always nice

do you know how to tune the TPS and the timing?

if you have the diagnostic port jumping the TEN pin to the GND will disable the ecu

IAC can cause bad idle but you should post a video

 

[Teeson]

kk no rush.

I'm seriously stumped. The ECU has ignition, 12V, start and grounds. The injectors have power and pressure throughout the start. The IAC solenoid is clean and well grounded/powered. The throttle position sensor is fine, the throttle cable is now disconnected to prevent it from messing anything up.
I can't think of anything that would prevent it from idling. please help.

has power, has fuel, has spark. starts but won't idle. what I am missing?

 

[Silverfox]

May be dumb question but there is no opening in the air intake between the mass air and the throttle body right? as this can cause this issue.

Mass air plugged in?

 

[Jedidiah55]

do you have an engine ground to the firewall?

 

[Teeson]

yes. I have a ground from the battery to the chassis and a ground from the pass motor mount to chassis. as well as the engine grounded.

will work on a vid, may take a bit.

all this stuff worked as it was before I took it apart. I didn't mess with the distributor or the TPS

@silverfox what is the mass air? like a MAF? car has a VAF. the vac line from the throttle body's IAC is connected to the vac rail. so is the other side to the rear valve cover. I'm confident there isnt any vacuum problems, I think its a electrical problem

 

[Teeson]

kk working on the video guys, photobucket issss soooo sssllloooww..

Jed which is the TEN pin? what does disabling the ECU do?