Hi. Does anyone have a write up on how to change the sway bar bushings on the front of the Mazda 5 (2010). I've been searching and have yet to find one. I've got the clunk that happens in the morning, then goes away within a few miles. I don't think the TSB covers the 2010's and it did not come up when I bought the car (new). I'm checking to see if maybe it'll be covered under the extended warranty as well.
Suspension Clunk - Left Front (2010 Mazda5)
- Thread starter Sounbwoy
- Start date
I'm in southern virginia with similar climate and have noticed the same clunk starting a few weeks ago after cooler nights in my 2009. It always goes away after about 10 mins of driving. My intitial forum research a few weeks ago made me believe an entire front-end suspension refurbishment was necessary. I'm not excited to take that on with my limited experience. But after seeing your question and more googling yesterday, I think just replacing the sway bar bushing will fix it.
I haven't put my eyes or hands on the actual bushing yet, but I did find a promising post online where someone replaced the bushing without loosening the crossmember. They described replacing the part only by feel reaching over the crossmember using just the right combination of sockets, extensions to reach the bolt and ratchets to have enough torque. I think I read you have to watch out for a brake line or some other interference on the drivers side. And they mentioned you can only reach it from gettin under the midsection of the car.. I guess scooting under the drivers door. Another thing that helps is find the drawing up the assembly on jimellismazdaparts.
Although an aftermarket bushing would probably be better I'm gonna go to mazda today and pick up the oem ones. Maybe the redsigned 2010 part fits mine.. and hopefully they bring up the TSB. Let me know how the job goes for you. If I get to it first I'll give you some lessons learned.
I haven't put my eyes or hands on the actual bushing yet, but I did find a promising post online where someone replaced the bushing without loosening the crossmember. They described replacing the part only by feel reaching over the crossmember using just the right combination of sockets, extensions to reach the bolt and ratchets to have enough torque. I think I read you have to watch out for a brake line or some other interference on the drivers side. And they mentioned you can only reach it from gettin under the midsection of the car.. I guess scooting under the drivers door. Another thing that helps is find the drawing up the assembly on jimellismazdaparts.
Although an aftermarket bushing would probably be better I'm gonna go to mazda today and pick up the oem ones. Maybe the redsigned 2010 part fits mine.. and hopefully they bring up the TSB. Let me know how the job goes for you. If I get to it first I'll give you some lessons learned.
The 2009 also has the revised bushing style. No difference in what you have and what you'll buy at dealer, other than wear obviously.
I took the transverse member off as per the manual to get access to the bushings. I have small hands and skinny fingers but I still ended up scraping my knuckles really badly in the process of trying to get the bolts off... so i left it to my mechanic. He had a hard time as well but I think he torched the bolts to get them loose.
If you're going to replace them yourself, i recommend using penetrating oil (maybe PB Blaster) to get the bolts loose first.
I had clunking coming from the front on my 5 as well. I changed both control arms (Beck/Arnley's), end-links (Beck/Arnley's), struts n mounts (monroe), springs (mazda) and bushings (Energy Suspension). The front sounds better than it did before but it doesn’t feel as good as i would like it to... which i don't want to get into. You can read my thoughts on this here if you'd like.
If you're going to replace them yourself, i recommend using penetrating oil (maybe PB Blaster) to get the bolts loose first.
I had clunking coming from the front on my 5 as well. I changed both control arms (Beck/Arnley's), end-links (Beck/Arnley's), struts n mounts (monroe), springs (mazda) and bushings (Energy Suspension). The front sounds better than it did before but it doesn’t feel as good as i would like it to... which i don't want to get into. You can read my thoughts on this here if you'd like.
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I really can't see the bushing play being bad enough to wear out the end links. Mine were making noise but still tight. Combine that with an understanding of the crosshatch pattern they put on the inside of the revised bushings, and I think what we are hearing is the sound of the bar breaking free of the static friction with the bushing. It pops. Actually, now that I think about it, I think the sound is a series of pops that sound like one sound to our ear. Imagine the bushing grabbing the bar and the bar popping loose over and over as the wheels go up and then down. This is supported by the fact that the sound is most prominent with quick up and down wheel movements of both wheels at the same time, in the same direction.
That said, I can't see the bushings wearing out other parts unless the bushings are crumbling, which I highly doubt on a car as new as '06+.
Wishmaster
Member
- :
- 07 Galaxy Gray AT Mazda5 GT
When I replaced my front struts after they were gone (with KYB's), at the same time, I replaced the end links as they were about to go. About a month or so after that, started getting the clunk from the bushings. I just kept putting it off and putting it off, busy, busy, blah, blah, blah... once I finally got around to it... that 8 months of procrastination had destroyed the end links and I had to replace them again. So ya, go get it done.
Wishmaster
Member
- :
- 07 Galaxy Gray AT Mazda5 GT
This thread might help some...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...DIY-d-your-front-sway-bar-bushings&highlight=
rodslinger
Member
I have a 2010 model 5 and the dealer just changed both front control arms and swaybar bushings for clunks yesterday. I have 35k miles on it. They may have redesigned them but they didn't fix them.
I have been so busy, I've not gotten around to doing ANYTHING yet. Today, for kicks, I had a friend of mine check (but he didn't have a jack so that was really a waste of time). He thought the left inner tie-rod was suspect..On the way back home I stopped at a local repair shop and had them check it and they could find NOTHING wrong except for what they claimed to be a bad right front wheel bearing. Personally, I think the tires are responsible for the noise (almost 50,000 on the Toyos) as the roaring noise is constant and doesn't change with cornering, but will check that as well. Will be checking on a different lift to get the weight of the car sometime in the coming week. Wishmaster, thanks for the link..
Wishmaster
Member
- :
- 07 Galaxy Gray AT Mazda5 GT
Not a problem... and FYI as this happened when I changed my front bushings and I've now posted about this and read a few other people mention the same thing. Just a visual inspection of the bushings often leads to a mis-diagnosis and replacement of parts that didn't need replacing - "Hmmm, bushings look fine, must be your **list of expensive components here**". Often the bushings while installed look just fine, but are far front it!! Once replaced, clunks are gone!
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
WOW! You should start a thread on who endured the longest on stock Toyos. Mine were down to 1/32 F and 2/32 R and roar like hell @ 35K...
Regarding FSB bushings, did you check Mz3 forums? Attached is a HOW-TO change Mz3 FSB to MS3 FSB. It's a cut and paste from the 'other' forum, credit to them. Has all the steps/pics to drop the front sub frame to swap out the front sway bar, but the obvious question is do you NEED to drop it if you are only replacing the bushings. Don't have an answer but have a look at the guide, then the bushings and you should be able get an idea. Also 'though' I came accross a post before where someone (I think Mz3) managed to change them without removing the front subframe but it was a big PITA.
View attachment How to Install MS3 FSB on MZ3.pdf
Thanks Silent!! I'll look at that as well. I'm also going to have the LCA bushing inspected as well. My gut tells me that is the source of the knocking, but will find out. In regards to the tires, I replaced the rears this weekend with Falken ZIEX-612's. Can't really do a good comparo since I still have a Toyo and a Sailun (don't judge me) up still roaring away, but I DO feel a little difference and the noise IS reduced.
I just replaced my front sway bar bushings. The clunking got so bad, that they reminded me of my dad's vintage Morris. After replacing the bushing the car rides like new! Took me about 2 hours. Here's how.
Bought the latest parts from OnlineMazdaparts.com. Seems different from the ones I took out, perhaps the latest revision from Mazda. $20 for two plus shipping.
Apply parking brake strong. Chock rear wheels. Loosen wheel lugs on both front wheels. Jack both front wheels of the car. Remove passenger side wheel. Turn steering all the way to the driver's side. Place a flashlight facing down behind the engine cylinder bank to illuminate the work area from above. The two bolts holding the passenger side bushing clamp will now be easily visible from the passenger wheel well, see image below.
Using 3/8 socket wrench, 3" drive extension, 14 mm socket, remove both bolts and remove the clamp holding the bushing. I used both a regular socket and a deep socket to navigate the tight access. <Also see M5Carl's note below that detaching the sway bar links from the struts on both wheels allows for improved access.> Then use a screwdriver to pop the clamp off the bushing. Then pull out the bushing along the sway bar and peel it off. Lightly grease the new bushing with silicone grease, wrap around the sway bar and push it towards the spacer ring. Put the clamp on to the bushing, install the bolts and tighten. Install the passenger side wheel. Now remove the driver's side wheel, set steering hard to the passenger side and repeat the procedure. On the driver's side, I found a universal-joint 3/8 drive and an additional 6" extension to be useful to navigate the steering linkage that blocks access to the bolt heads. After installing the new bushing, install driver's side wheel. Lower the car and tighten all wheel lugs.
Bought the latest parts from OnlineMazdaparts.com. Seems different from the ones I took out, perhaps the latest revision from Mazda. $20 for two plus shipping.
Apply parking brake strong. Chock rear wheels. Loosen wheel lugs on both front wheels. Jack both front wheels of the car. Remove passenger side wheel. Turn steering all the way to the driver's side. Place a flashlight facing down behind the engine cylinder bank to illuminate the work area from above. The two bolts holding the passenger side bushing clamp will now be easily visible from the passenger wheel well, see image below.
Using 3/8 socket wrench, 3" drive extension, 14 mm socket, remove both bolts and remove the clamp holding the bushing. I used both a regular socket and a deep socket to navigate the tight access. <Also see M5Carl's note below that detaching the sway bar links from the struts on both wheels allows for improved access.> Then use a screwdriver to pop the clamp off the bushing. Then pull out the bushing along the sway bar and peel it off. Lightly grease the new bushing with silicone grease, wrap around the sway bar and push it towards the spacer ring. Put the clamp on to the bushing, install the bolts and tighten. Install the passenger side wheel. Now remove the driver's side wheel, set steering hard to the passenger side and repeat the procedure. On the driver's side, I found a universal-joint 3/8 drive and an additional 6" extension to be useful to navigate the steering linkage that blocks access to the bolt heads. After installing the new bushing, install driver's side wheel. Lower the car and tighten all wheel lugs.
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Problem gone.
I finally replaced the sway bar bushings to my Mazda 5 this weekend! Even though I knew the problem was not critical, the noise had become unbearable and I got tired of explaining to everyone riding with me that we were not going to lose a wheel and die in a crash. I did exactly what "el toro" said although I worked both sides before installing back the wheels. If I may add something that eased things up a lot was loosening the sway bar from the links on both sides to gain better access to the bracket holding the bushing by rotating the sway bar out of the way (the rear bolts were easier to remove with the sway bar arm all the way up and the front bolts with the bar down). The old bushings were worn and cracked. I noticed that the new bushings have an additional core of either plastic/nylon or similar, which I hope will reduce wear more than direct contact of the bar with the rubber. I used white lithium grease for coating the interior of the bushings. I am attaching a couple of pics of the replacement bushings. Problem gone, rides like new. I hope this fix lasts more than a few thousand miles.
This is an update two years after this first post. I changed the rear bushings about a month ago. I used the same type of bushings that I used for the front. The old ones were also cracked and noise was beginning to bother me. I also changed rear shocks because one of them was starting to leak. The front bushings have worked well for two years but I believe they may be starting to wear off because in very cold days (and we have had cold days this winter) I'm starting to hear a familiar noise. They will survive this winter and summer won't be a problem. Not sure about the next though. I'll keep updating.
I finally replaced the sway bar bushings to my Mazda 5 this weekend! Even though I knew the problem was not critical, the noise had become unbearable and I got tired of explaining to everyone riding with me that we were not going to lose a wheel and die in a crash. I did exactly what "el toro" said although I worked both sides before installing back the wheels. If I may add something that eased things up a lot was loosening the sway bar from the links on both sides to gain better access to the bracket holding the bushing by rotating the sway bar out of the way (the rear bolts were easier to remove with the sway bar arm all the way up and the front bolts with the bar down). The old bushings were worn and cracked. I noticed that the new bushings have an additional core of either plastic/nylon or similar, which I hope will reduce wear more than direct contact of the bar with the rubber. I used white lithium grease for coating the interior of the bushings. I am attaching a couple of pics of the replacement bushings. Problem gone, rides like new. I hope this fix lasts more than a few thousand miles.
This is an update two years after this first post. I changed the rear bushings about a month ago. I used the same type of bushings that I used for the front. The old ones were also cracked and noise was beginning to bother me. I also changed rear shocks because one of them was starting to leak. The front bushings have worked well for two years but I believe they may be starting to wear off because in very cold days (and we have had cold days this winter) I'm starting to hear a familiar noise. They will survive this winter and summer won't be a problem. Not sure about the next though. I'll keep updating.
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