Rust Proofing

Wahbooza

Member
:
2013 - Cx-5 GS
I have read through a number of posts regarding people debating rust proofing...

Without getting into a debate, I am curious what you have done in terms of rust-proofing to your CX5?
If I go with a service such as Krown, do I trust them with brand new model vehicle to know what to spray, and where to and not to drill holes?

Lots of CX-5 owners, who has their car rust proofed with Krown, any issues? (Especially people our great "Salt belt" which people on these forums refer to)

I take possession on Saturday, so am very curious.

Thanks!
 
I have read through a number of posts regarding people debating rust proofing...

Without getting into a debate, I am curious what you have done in terms of rust-proofing to your CX5?

Rust Check in mid November. Used this product on my 626 from 1990-1999 with no rust. Same with my S70 1999-2012. Other products are likely just as good. Waste of cash if you update your ride frequently. I hold on to mine longer. Did NOT use it on my K wagon 1982-1990 and had to do rust work and a repaint part way thru ownership and disposed of it when a new floor and rocker panels was needed.

Brian
 
Like bamirault said, worth it if your keeping the car for 5+ years.

However, not all products are the same. Ask for the product they are using and do a quick research online to see if its good or not, and if not, don't do it.

As well, ask them to show you one that somebody else has just done, and judge for yourself if they did a decent job covering the vehicle under cariage properly, and if its thick enough.

If it looks they did a bad job, search around for a different dealer or a stand alone company that does this.
 
Bamirault, I actually read about your rust proofing on a different post, I did a double take to make sure this was the thread I started! Which rust check location did you use for your CX-5? I ask because I am scared to be the first to bring in a type of car to a rust-proofing shop and have them 'test out' where to place holes.

Do you feel they can hide the plugs sufficiently? Also there is a lot of talk about them spraying silicone on rubber so their product doesn't get on the rubber surfaces, so they silicone every gasket?
 
Bamirault, I actually read about your rust proofing on a different post, I did a double take to make sure this was the thread I started! Which rust check location did you use for your CX-5? I ask because I am scared to be the first to bring in a type of car to a rust-proofing shop and have them 'test out' where to place holes.

Do you feel they can hide the plugs sufficiently? Also there is a lot of talk about them spraying silicone on rubber so their product doesn't get on the rubber surfaces, so they silicone every gasket?

I took my truck to an East-end Ottawa location (I live in the area). You are never invited to observe the application in the bay so there is no way to determine the techniques used. There ARE holes drilled and then closed with a plastic plug; and these are visible when the doors are open. I have never objected to them. In my years of use, I have never been told that silicone was applied to rubber surfaces so I cannot write to it.

What I will note, is that there were two differences between this experience and any application in the past 22 years. Firstly, there was an extra charge standard on the CX-5 due to the necessity of removing some underside panels prior to the application, to ensure the spray gets where intended. This is also charged to some BMW and other upscale autos which also have underside panels.

Secondly, on the drive home you ALWAYS get a burning smell (temporary only) as the spray cooks off parts prone to operational heating. This time, I noted that the rear window appeared to be fogging; a condition which spread to the windshield. On closer inspection when the defroster failed to clear the glass I realized that the problem was actually smoke coming out of the dash vents and filling the cabin. After pulling over and dropping the windows while keeping the engine running this quickly cleared. If I were to make a guess, this is the first car I've owned with a more or less sealed undercarriage and the lack of airflow across the covered underside during the cook off period allowed the vent system to pick up the smoke. This quickly resolved itself and all is now fine.

Brian
 
I got mine done at Krown on Lakeshore at the end of November. When I talked to one of the guys there they had already done a number of CX-5 prior to doing mine. They were actually surprised by the number of CX-5s they were getting.

The guys there did a good job. Plugs have to be where they have to be. That is something I don't think they will comprise on? They will drill where they feel will provide the best application of their product. So the locations on mine are not totally hidden, but they are not that obvious either. I don't even notice them on a daily basis.

This is my first new car, and first being rust-proofed so I can't speak for anything else other than the shop did it quickly and cleanly... even washed the whole car afterwards. No smoke in the cabin for me though... but lots of drip on the driveway (to be expected).
 
I've done a little research on this topic and where rust proofing on earlier manufactured cars was almost mandatory straight from the factory (if anyone knows the movie Fargo, you know what I'm talking about), with the advanced sheet metal treatment in the plant, is additional rust proofing required?
 
I do t want to get into debates on whether it is required or not, just curious if people have been doing it on their CX5.
 
I do t want to get into debates on whether it is required or not, just curious if people have been doing it on their CX5.

Hi,

Looking for feedback on the Krown experience with the CX5. Which locations you'd recommend etc. I just purchased mine and am considering getting it rustproofed in the fall.

Thanks in advance
 
Did not on CX-5, never have, never will (regarding aftermarket high profit rustproofing).
 
Maybe it's late but here's my $0.02 for future reference!

If you want the peace of mind, I would recommend doing it with the dealer and have it done before delivery. They have the right tools to spray in the pre-drilled holes. But at the end of the day, it's not about the effectiveness of the chemical, apply technique, etc. It's more for the 10 year warranty that comes with, that covers any type of rust anywhere and not just where chemicals were applied.
 
I had my old toyota matrix rust proofed when I purchased the car in 2004. That being said I do have a few minor rust spots. However I suppose they are partially my fault. The small spots of rust I have on the vehicle are from small chips in the paint that I never bothered to repair. That being said I still decided to get my new CX-5 Rust proofed simply because I live in Canada and we get a lot of snow and the salt on the road doesn't help matters.
 
When I had my Protege5, I did the oil based rust proofing every year for the first 5 years. That is, untill my wheel wells started to fall apart from rust. The only thing rust proofing ever did for me is cost money, pruduce ugly black residue at the base of the doors year round and make all my rubber fittings sag like crazy. Still kept Protege5 11 years btw.

I researched it quite a bit, and decided not to rust-proof the CX5. I hear that the steel and paint has come a long way at Mazda the last decade, and combined with the plastic around the wheels and on the undercarriage, I feel it would be a waste of time and money...

Just my opinion...
 
Did my Cx5 twice already at Krown.Cost me $147 last time and year ago I do not remember but around $130.
They recommend doing it every year but in my opinion every 2 years is more than enough
 
Having paid once for Ziebart rust proofing I would never again have it or something similar done again.

Cars wing was rusting through at 2.5 years old, so it didn't work.

What really pissed me of where the holes drilled in the sills then just plugged with a yellow plastic bung, absolutely no rust prevention covering given to the BARE metal a result of drilling the hole!!!.

I spent hours filing away the burrs left a result of a blunt drill, and then applying coats of a quality zinc paint.

don't have such a system fitted.

What I do now is paint the metal sub frames and apply extra underseal were I think its required, waxol is a waste of time except for cavities where it won't be washed away.
 

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