Radio / Speakers on CX-5 SPORT model

Just made a quick stop at my local dealer looking for repair wire or other pieces to make my own OEM adapter plug.

If you want to go OEM with the in dash tweeters the part number is KD62-66-960 and cost $16 each.

http://www.mazdapartsunlimited.com/oem-part/mazda/cx-5/2013/grand-touring/2-0l-l4-gas/body-hardware/sound-system/inst-pnl-speaker-right/kd6266960

I may just chop the plugs off these and solder together my own adapters if the OEM speakers sound bad.

are these plug in and good to go?
 
are these plug in and good to go?

assuming NolaCX5 got the part # right then yes they will have the female portion of the connector that will connect to the male piece that will be plugged in a plastic piece just under the trim in each dash speaker location.

PS NolaCX5 is wrong about being able to chop off the connector off the stock speaker, its molded into the speaker its not coming off.
 
assuming NolaCX5 got the part # right then yes they will have the female portion of the connector that will connect to the male piece that will be plugged in a plastic piece just under the trim in each dash speaker location.

PS NolaCX5 is wrong about being able to chop off the connector off the stock speaker, its molded into the speaker its not coming off.

That is exactly what I did. I chopped off the female connectors from the stock tweeters and reused them. If I find time I'll try and post pictures using the laptop, the IPad won't work with this Forum.
 
assuming NolaCX5 got the part # right then yes they will have the female portion of the connector that will connect to the male piece that will be plugged in a plastic piece just under the trim in each dash speaker location.

PS NolaCX5 is wrong about being able to chop off the connector off the stock speaker, its molded into the speaker its not coming off.

That is exactly what I did. I chopped off the female connectors from the stock tweeters and reused them. If I find time I'll try and post pictures using the laptop, the IPad won't work with this Forum.
 
Installed the speakers (oem tweeters) In The d pillars today it improved the sound of the stock system dramatically. I also installed a very very old 10 inch self amplified Kenwood sub which is placed in the trunk. Works well for a 100 watt sub. Its more then enough for me...
 
I applied 1 layer of FatMat sound deadener to 2 front doors and the cargo area and noticed a little over a 1db reduction in noise. I then applied a 2nd layer to ea front door and 2 layers to the left rear door and noticed a 3db reduction in noise. I ran out of time but my plan is to complete the right rear door and go over the cargo area once more. All tests were done using a iphone app driving 70MPH on the same highway.

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I applied 1 layer of FatMat sound deadener to 2 front doors and the cargo area and noticed a little over a 1db reduction in noise. I then applied a 2nd layer to ea front door and 2 layers to the left rear door and noticed a 3db reduction in noise. I ran out of time but my plan is to complete the right rear door and go over the cargo area once more. All tests were done using a iphone app driving 70MPH on the same highway.

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Did you take the black plastic part off and apply this directly to the inside layer of the outside facing metal?? Or is this just covering over the black plastic?
 
if you are asking about the doors, then I covered over the black plastic. On the cargo area I removed everything. I also attempted the rear hatchback but it looks like it will be time consuming. I'm going to look for some sound deadening material I can stuff in the rear hatch in between the outer and inside metal hatch.
 
if you are asking about the doors, then I covered over the black plastic. On the cargo area I removed everything. I also attempted the rear hatchback but it looks like it will be time consuming. I'm going to look for some sound deadening material I can stuff in the rear hatch in between the outer and inside metal hatch.

Isn't covering the black plastic against what the instructions would say? Did you try to take the black plastic off first or did that turn out to be too much work? I ask because i have two dynamat door kits that I will be applying in a long weekend coming up hopefully, don't want to waste them.
 
Isn't covering the black plastic against what the instructions would say? Did you try to take the black plastic off first or did that turn out to be too much work? I ask because i have two dynamat door kits that I will be applying in a long weekend coming up hopefully, don't want to waste them.

I used Dynamat extensively in my car.. I didn't put any on the black plastic trim for what it is worth. I did, however put dynamat around the speaker baffles, and then mouted the speaker on top.

I covered about 1/2 of the inside metal panels of each door by reaching through the speaker opening to appply. I also bought a $2 roller to help apply.
You know that you have applied enough when you tap the outside of the door - when it sounds dead (compared to an untreated door) you have enough.

I also applied Dynamat to the rear hatch door (taking off the plastic panels) and because I had excess sheets, put some around the spare tyre well, and outside metal skin behind the d-pillars. Stick it on any metal work that sounds tinny.
 
I talked with a colleague that has experience with sound deadening and he recommended putting it all over the door on everything metal and or plastic. He said any areas untreated would allow sound to leak in. I looked at several install vids and never came across anyone putting inside the door.

When I installed the speakers up front I used silicone to create a seal for the the mounts and plugged up all holes and then covered it all with FatMat. For the rear I used foam to create a seal and cover up holes and then FatMat. 3db is a significant change. I still have 1 door to do and another layer in the cargo area.

FatMat was cheap and required 2 layers but I was expecting that. DynaMat is better and a bit more expensive. I didn't do the hatch because it's too much work and I was short on time.
 
I ended up ordering the two KD62-66-960 speakers and will be receiving them some time this week. I had a leaner touring model from the dealer for a day with the six speak factory unit and it was an impressive (and noticeable) difference between the two. For less than $35, I really can't see a reason not to do it, especially if you have no intention of installing aftermarket speakers or a stereo.

I just want to say thanks to all of those who have done the research to find that part number. That saved me a lot of time and hassle.

Oh, and if you try and order them from onlinemazdaparts.com.... well apparently they are undergoing a "management change" and refusing orders until further notice.
 
I ended up ordering the two KD62-66-960 speakers and will be receiving them some time this week. I had a leaner touring model from the dealer for a day with the six speak factory unit and it was an impressive (and noticeable) difference between the two. For less than $35, I really can't see a reason not to do it, especially if you have no intention of installing aftermarket speakers or a stereo.

I just want to say thanks to all of those who have done the research to find that part number. That saved me a lot of time and hassle.

Oh, and if you try and order them from onlinemazdaparts.com.... well apparently they are undergoing a "management change" and refusing orders until further notice.


I wonder which speakers sound better, the stock KD62-66-960 tweeters or the 3.5 Polk speakers? Which ones would be better to install for better sound quality?
 
I think the obvious answer is the the Polks are going to drive a better sound quality. The questions should be will you notice the difference?
 
Thread bump, I'm going to be installing a line out converter, I was wondering if you know which color wires are for the rear speakers. I have a 13 cx5 sport touring without bose. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I think without using the oem bracket, just a speaker adapter, your going to be hitting the back of the speaker with the glass.
Have you tried lowering the window in the rear yet?

I dont have an issue with just removing the oem speaker from the bracket, even if it means destroying it. I am very not likely to be uninstalling the Polks later on anyways.
looks like db651 would fit just fine when the oem speaker is removed.

Plug for door speakers
http://www.metraonline.com/part/72-5602

Front door bracket for 6.5" speakers
http://www.metraonline.com/part/82-7501
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Rear door bracket for 6.5" speakers
http://www.metraonline.com/part/82-7400
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120827...kets.html?search=Metra_82-7400&avf=N&skipvs=T

Dash Speaker
has anyone tried Metra 72-4568?
http://www.metraonline.com/part/72-4568

this looks close Metra 72-4570
http://www.metraonline.com/part/72-4570
 
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