I am running my the signals for my amp from the stock sub harness througha line converter to my amp. Ideally I would like to keep the harness intact, that is not cut off the plastic connector. I have tried repeatedly to twist the wire so that it is snug and then wrapping it in tape. This is not going to well. Does anyone have any other ideas short ofsnipping of the harness and splicing them?
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Question on signals
- Thread starter drock27
- Start date
yes....get some small spade connectors that match the ones in the stock subs connector....crimp/solder them on the new wire going to your amp and push them onto the spades in the connecrot. make sure you get insulated ones so that the ends sticking out of the connector won't touch anthing...or each other.
The factory sub has a harness that holds 8 wires. I disconnected it from the sub itself. I soldered the ends of the line converter to small brad nails and plugged these directly into the part of the harness I unplugged. So total I have 5 wires soldered and plugged intothe harness, right +/-, left +/-, and my remote wire. I ran separate power and ground wires. I hooked everything up and the sub was barely moving nothing really. I know pics would help a lot but I dropped my digicam a week ago. Any ideas?
A bad connection or high impedance on the brad nails is my first bet, just cut the harness off and soilder directly to the wires. You can always reattac it later and this is the proper way to do it.
How can you be certain the speaker wires are hooked up right.
Often there is a gain on the LOC make sure it turned up and as is your amplifiers gain.
What amps/sub/box did you hook up. Also what gauge wire for power and ground.
How can you be certain the speaker wires are hooked up right.
Often there is a gain on the LOC make sure it turned up and as is your amplifiers gain.
What amps/sub/box did you hook up. Also what gauge wire for power and ground.
The only reason I did not do it that way was because I did not think that I could re attach the harness. The adjustment knob on the LOC is all the way up as is the gain on my amp. The sub is an Alpine 12 Type R 4 ohm. It is underpowered now but I was kind of hooking it up for a dry run. The amp is an Orion amp 250 rms. The box is a sealed pre fab enclosure I got at Soundwaves and is 1 cu. ft. 4 gauge power and ground. The power light is lit on the amp. I am gettinga JL 500/1 on tuesday and would like everything to tobe operational by then. Any ideas on how to reattach that harness when/if I need to? Thanks a lot.
Simply cut off the harness one wire at a time about 6 inches form the harness and then just connecto your wire. When you need to put it back just reconnect the harness with butt connectors or soilder. Don't pull wires out of the harness just cut the wires a few inches back.
The JL 500/1 may be overkill for 1 sub but it should SLAM! I would get a better box if its a RT or Qlogic though.
Nothing you mentioned othern then a signal wireing being messed up should cause no output.
If you have pics feel free to PM or email me.
Is the sub 4 ohms or dual 4 ohms?
The JL 500/1 may be overkill for 1 sub but it should SLAM! I would get a better box if its a RT or Qlogic though.
Nothing you mentioned othern then a signal wireing being messed up should cause no output.
If you have pics feel free to PM or email me.
Is the sub 4 ohms or dual 4 ohms?
The LOC grounds are for if you get noise.
If the sub is a dual 4 ohm sub and the amp is a 2 channel that isn't usualy a good thing. Typicaly a 2 channel amp cannot be bridged to drive a 2 ohm load. It will smoke itself or go into a protection mode.
make damn sure your am can handle a 2 ohm bridged load if it is a 2 channel amp.
If the sub is a dual 4 ohm sub and the amp is a 2 channel that isn't usualy a good thing. Typicaly a 2 channel amp cannot be bridged to drive a 2 ohm load. It will smoke itself or go into a protection mode.
make damn sure your am can handle a 2 ohm bridged load if it is a 2 channel amp.
Is this it?
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/pro75x2.cfm
If so then you cannot parallel the subs coils and bridge the amp. It isn't capable of it. It will sustain damage most likely. For now wire the sub to one channel of the amp.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/pro75x2.cfm
If so then you cannot parallel the subs coils and bridge the amp. It isn't capable of it. It will sustain damage most likely. For now wire the sub to one channel of the amp.
The Alpine MRD-M300 would be fine for a single Type R subs and the JL 250/1 would be even better. The JL 500/1 is silly overkill for a single Type R sub other then the 15".
Now the 500/1 is the only amp that can handle the single type R now and still properly power a set of them if you upgrade without having to swap one sub out for a different impedance.
75 watts rms isn;t much but its only 3db less then 150 rms which is all you would have gotten had the amp been able to handle the single Type R. As it may be in a protection mode or even damaged then the 75 rms is a much better use of its power.
Now the 500/1 is the only amp that can handle the single type R now and still properly power a set of them if you upgrade without having to swap one sub out for a different impedance.
75 watts rms isn;t much but its only 3db less then 150 rms which is all you would have gotten had the amp been able to handle the single Type R. As it may be in a protection mode or even damaged then the 75 rms is a much better use of its power.
Okay this is killing me. I just picked up a jl 250/1. I cut off the harness, rewired everything, hooked up the sub and still barely no sound at all. LOC adjustment knobs are all the way up. Green power light on amp is lit up. Just no sound. Is the something obvious I am missing or what. I hooked up another sub to it just to be sure it wasn't a bad sub and got the same result. On the harness there is red black yellow and blue coming out. My guess was power ground acc. and remote? should i use the yellow wire instead of the blue one?
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