quarter mile times??

yeah i'm not autoxing with 18 gallons....stretch also drops the rear seats as well. where can I get the OMGHi2U placards everyone is running crosbow?
 
SpicyMchaggis said:
.200 r/t? did you foul or something..

If he is running at an NHRA track that has switched to the .000 lights, that is a horrible RT, as .000 = .500 and .200 = .700 on the old system.
 
A .700 light isn't HORRIBLE. It's nothing to write home about, but the average person is lucky to get below 1.00 on their first day out. On an average day out, I get between .000-.200.

And weight DOES make a difference, and I've found that 50lbs shaves off .1 seconds. My car initially ran a 16.3, but with 150lbs off the interior, and 7 more hp at the wheels, I ran a 15.7. I'll be taking another 100lbs out next time I go, and I have 5 more whp, which should get me down to 15.4. Every little bit helps, and I'd much rather say I run a 15.4 than a 16.3.
 
16.4 stock, 16.2 aem CAI , 16.0 light weight wheels and removed cats

14.5 @ 98 with light wheels and 60+1 shot of nitrous

mazda 3 sp5
 
everything ive ever read statest 100lbs per 1/10th


i'd much rather say my car can run a 13. but i'm not going to pull off every body panel every interior part and cut off the roof. just to say it.lol
 
from all teh weight ive taken out of my car, ive probably droped my e/t .5 second or more...and im sure i gained a few mph to my trap speed. Althought i have reduced the weight 400lbs or so.
 
Gen1GT said:
A .700 light isn't HORRIBLE. It's nothing to write home about, but the average person is lucky to get below 1.00 on their first day out. On an average day out, I get between .000-.200.

And weight DOES make a difference, and I've found that 50lbs shaves off .1 seconds. My car initially ran a 16.3, but with 150lbs off the interior, and 7 more hp at the wheels, I ran a 15.7. I'll be taking another 100lbs out next time I go, and I have 5 more whp, which should get me down to 15.4. Every little bit helps, and I'd much rather say I run a 15.4 than a 16.3.

Well, I race Pro Bracket every weekend, and if I get worse than a .050 light I am going home early.
Also the 7 hp you said drops almost a tenth. 10 Whp = .1 in the 1/4, to a point that is. Also the 100lbs = .1 is also correct.
 
that 10whp = .1 is definately INCORRECT, what about vehicle WEIGHT, if a car weighs 10000 lbs, 10whp won't be doing much =), but the 100lb = .1 is usually right.
 
mp5jeff said:
that 10whp = .1 is definately INCORRECT, what about vehicle WEIGHT, if a car weighs 10000 lbs, 10whp won't be doing much =), but the 100lb = .1 is usually right.

That figure is what I used in my 3700 lb Camaro, and is dyno proven. To a point that is. Once you get down into the 11s ET takes alot more HP to get.
 
so everytime you gained 10whp you went straight to the track and got new times? how many times did you do this after gaining 10whp?
 
Why are you riding my a$$ on this? It is a generally known thing in the F-Body circles. I tested it a couple of times when I was stock and running 13.0s.
I am just on this site to learn about the Mazda 3. I am thinking of getting one for the family. I am not here to debate, or get into it with anyone. I am very well known in our Fourms, and am not a trouble maker.
 
You see, now here's the problem. The references you guys are using, all refer to LARGE AND HEAVY-ASSED CARS. It takes much more hp to make a 3700lb car drop .1 in the 1/4, than it does a car that only weighs 2300lbs. Fact is, I used to have 110.9whp and my car weighed 2500lbs and I did 16.3 in the 1/4. I took 150lbs out of the car, and added 6.3whp, and it dropped to 15.7. You do the math.

Not only that, you guys are talking about cars that already have large amounts of hp. An increase of 300 to 310hp is not a large gain percentage wise. An increase from 110 to 120whp is almost 10%, whereas the latter was only a gain of 3%.

http://www.supermotors.org/resources/calculators/index.php

Use the 'estimiated time and trap speed' calculator. Now enter in my 2650lb wet weight(I weigh a hefty 300lbs), and my car's 134 crank hp(assuming 14% drivetrain l loss), and you'll see it gives you a near exact replica of my best drag time. Now, take 50lbs off the weight. Yep, exactly. Now add 5hp. WHAT? .2 seconds? That's insane.

Now try if differently. Now make the car weigh 4900lbs with 300hp. Now drop 50lbs. Yep, 5/100ths. Now another 50. 1/10th. And add 10hp. This does even more on a large car than you'd think.

You see, things are different in the sport compact world. 50lbs are good for .1 seconds, and 5hp is good for .2 seconds.....
 
Gen1GT said:
You see, now here's the problem. The references you guys are using, all refer to LARGE AND HEAVY-ASSED CARS. It takes much more hp to make a 3700lb car drop .1 in the 1/4, than it does a car that only weighs 2300lbs. Fact is, I used to have 110.9whp and my car weighed 2500lbs and I did 16.3 in the 1/4. I took 150lbs out of the car, and added 6.3whp, and it dropped to 15.7. You do the math.

Not only that, you guys are talking about cars that already have large amounts of hp. An increase of 300 to 310hp is not a large gain percentage wise. An increase from 110 to 120whp is almost 10%, whereas the latter was only a gain of 3%.

http://www.supermotors.org/resources/calculators/index.php

Use the 'estimiated time and trap speed' calculator. Now enter in my 2650lb wet weight(I weigh a hefty 300lbs), and my car's 134 crank hp(assuming 14% drivetrain l loss), and you'll see it gives you a near exact replica of my best drag time. Now, take 50lbs off the weight. Yep, exactly. Now add 5hp. WHAT? .2 seconds? That's insane.

Now try if differently. Now make the car weigh 4900lbs with 300hp. Now drop 50lbs. Yep, 5/100ths. Now another 50. 1/10th. And add 10hp. This does even more on a large car than you'd think.

You see, things are different in the sport compact world. 50lbs are good for .1 seconds, and 5hp is good for .2 seconds.....


Good point. I guess I am just refering to general terms. 10 hp is a good gain on these cars and you will see it at the track.
 
hey take it easy, it was my first time ever at the track. EVER. so i was pretty happy to get a .200, now i know theres DEFINATELY room for improvement.
once i get some new tires im goin back out to thr track to get some new times. ive installed a CAI and short shifter since iwas there last. (yippy)
 
Balanced engine can make a diffence!

I think you guys are missing one thing about your cars besides the weight issue. (thinkbeer All Mazda 3 engines are not perfectly made, i.e. the engines are not all balanced. Actually, they are not balanced at all that I am aware of. The balancing of an engine can make huge returns on horse power and torque.

Example: I saw two stock motor cycles at the track one day, one completely blew the doors off the other on the 1/4 mile. Both were from the factory, both drivers said they did not mod there bikes at all either. What give?? Had to be the balancing of one of the engines.....no other way to explain it. Maybe the diffence in weight of the two divers had some effect but on a cycle that cant be much.

Hope this helps.
 
stiffer motor mounts will help with the engine movement when shifting. thats the only thing I can think of cause we have counter rotating balace shafts (2.3)
 
The balance shafts are to smooth out the vibration that is felt through the vehicle due to normal crankshaft pulses. They don't neccessarily help balance the internal engine components.

They do rob HP, though.
 
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