Protege JDM cams question

[CorkSport]

Would these be a suitable replacement to my stock cams.ive got some wear and need to figure out if i can use these with a built motor,gt28rs at 14+psi tuned and almost completely modified motor/engine. My options are limited and i dont wanna payfor custom ground camshafts if i can do something like this or just get stock replacements.

They should work great.

-Derrick

 

[mazdaspeedpower]

thanks for the info guys.

 

[CorkSport]

Our exhaust cam is a copy of the mazdaspeed familia camshafy.

Derrick

 

[mazda_sp20]

I have a recently built forged FS-DE and serviced standard head.
So just confirimg, I have solid shim factory lifters. Will I have to get my engine builder to reshim the lifters by using the corksport exhaust cam?

From reports Australian FS-DE already have a J-Spec cam already?

 

[Spiced MSP]

no, no shimming needed

 

[AusOrion]

He is changing cams.

I would at the very least check the lash when the new cams go in - if nothing else to be certain that it is fine. I suspect that you may have to move a few shims around to set the lash properly. Hopefully you won't have to buy any new shims.

 

[Spiced MSP]

It's not like he is swapping a stock cam for a larger cam like Integral/Megacycle cams or something. He is swapping a stock cam for a basically stock cam. I have run both in. and ex. cams from Corksport in my car for a couple of years with no ill effects and no adjustments at all. Hell, even Corksport told me a few years back that they were straight drop in with no adjustments needed after posting the video of a protege with the cams in on their site. The installation instructions on their site didn't even mention adjustments. They are a very mild cam and Im sure you are aware that they are stock on the ze platform.

 

[CorkSport]

It is a good idea to check the lash out when installing the camshafts just to make sure. Mileage is getting up there on the FS engines.

-Derrick

 

[AusOrion]

It's not like he is swapping a stock cam for a larger cam like Integral/Megacycle cams or something. He is swapping a stock cam for a basically stock cam. I have run both in. and ex. cams from Corksport in my car for a couple of years with no ill effects and no adjustments at all. Hell, even Corksport told me a few years back that they were straight drop in with no adjustments needed after posting the video of a protege with the cams in on their site. The installation instructions on their site didn't even mention adjustments. They are a very mild cam and Im sure you are aware that they are stock on the ze platform.

Why does Mazda (any I'm sure other car makers)have such a wide range of shims available then?

Cams and heads have tolerances when they are manufactured, so it's rare that everything will be exactly the same - the reason for different shim sizes. At the very least, by checking the lash, you are confirming that everything is still in spec.

 

[Installshield 2]

^exactly. Lash has a factory recommended threshold of .010" to .014", which is not much...but the cam lobes ride on parts that move a whole lot more than that in length, and move extremely frequently...just a slight amount of valve spring fatigue, and everything is out of whack...also, its important for any cam shaft to go through a frequency of stress that remains as uniform as possible along its length...lash out of spec on one valve, sends that resistance (or lack there of) down the shaft...and it will quickly build resonance that can destroy multiple things...

so its not something to mess around with...it has nothing to do with how 'aggressive' a cam shaft is, as this requirement spec is a function of the cam's base circle, not how big or small the lobes are...it is the measurement taken when no part of the 'toe' is in contact with the lifters, you could literally destroy a head with cams half as aggressive as stock...if the lash is incorrectly set...it has to do only with the fact that the shafts are integral to a system that has a whole bunch of moving parts...if you're changing cams, this procedure only adds about 30 minutes of work (way less to just check it, though)...and in most cases, it'll check out just fine...but the damage poor lash can cause is far higher than the handful of shims needed to correct it, and the time it takes to change them...

 

[Spiced MSP]

ok awesome, thanks AusOrion and Installshield. Everytime I jump on here I learned something new...especially with Installshield's very detailed and colorful descriptions..lol. I wasn't trying to start an argument in any way though. Plus, I was a little buzzed last night..lol. Thanks again guys for clearing that up.

 

[tweety2300]

I've had a lifter ticking for about 3 years with no ill effects, almost every start and above 3,000 rpms it ticks unless its under light load like interstate driving. Should I invest in cams when I do my rebuild?

 

[mazda_sp20]

No worries, Thanks guys.

I wanted to get my facts right.
If it was a drop in cam, I would install it myself and save myself some labour.
If it needs to be checked and shims adjusted, I will leave my engine builder to do it again

 

[Installshield 2]

ok awesome, thanks AusOrion and Installshield. Everytime I jump on here I learned something new...especially with Installshield's very detailed and colorful descriptions..lol. I wasn't trying to start an argument in any way though. Plus, I was a little buzzed last night..lol. Thanks again guys for clearing that up.

haha no problem man...sadly, i'm all to aware of the dark side of cams...had a very fun start to 2013 with the wrong lash, wrong cam gear bolts, etc...i got to take them out and reinstall them nearly 10 times in 2 weeks...