Protege 5 rust
- Thread starter br289165
- Start date
So I have become the latest unfortunate p5 owner to suffer from this. My rust is mainly on rear passenger wheel well (small quarter sized bubbling) and an ugly almost fully perforated 3 inch by 4 inch infection around the badge. WTF!!!!
I went in today to get a quote from Maaco.. damn, $1139!!! I went to the mazda dealership here in Ottawa and they were happy to quote me too.. however, the guy who looked at it said he would email me the quote today. Still no email...
Anyways, I picked up a few interesting tidbits from the dealership... it seems that the rust problem is far more prevelant on Mazda vehicles than realized. When the guy was quoting he mentioned that I would not be able to get into the shop until two weeks later since they were backlogged with rust repairs. I asked if they were warranty repairs (mine wasnt as it is an 02 P5) and he said mostly yes. He even nodded towards a dark blue mazda 3 next to mine and that was a late model one (I think). Anyways, I guess I am fortunate that the rust is not as bad as some poor folks on here. I had rustproofing done twice, so I hoping that has staved off some underside rust.
But I am mad.. my father in-law's Camry bought the same year as my P5 has ZERO rust. Heck even his 98 Dodge Caravan has less rust. My wife and I are in the market for a new vehicle, I think we will trade in my dear P5 and get as much as possible for it while the cancer is still localized.
I love my P5, but Im going to get a quote from a smaller shop for cosmetic work and sell.
I went in today to get a quote from Maaco.. damn, $1139!!! I went to the mazda dealership here in Ottawa and they were happy to quote me too.. however, the guy who looked at it said he would email me the quote today. Still no email...
Anyways, I picked up a few interesting tidbits from the dealership... it seems that the rust problem is far more prevelant on Mazda vehicles than realized. When the guy was quoting he mentioned that I would not be able to get into the shop until two weeks later since they were backlogged with rust repairs. I asked if they were warranty repairs (mine wasnt as it is an 02 P5) and he said mostly yes. He even nodded towards a dark blue mazda 3 next to mine and that was a late model one (I think). Anyways, I guess I am fortunate that the rust is not as bad as some poor folks on here. I had rustproofing done twice, so I hoping that has staved off some underside rust.
But I am mad.. my father in-law's Camry bought the same year as my P5 has ZERO rust. Heck even his 98 Dodge Caravan has less rust. My wife and I are in the market for a new vehicle, I think we will trade in my dear P5 and get as much as possible for it while the cancer is still localized.
I love my P5, but Im going to get a quote from a smaller shop for cosmetic work and sell.
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I too have rust on both rear wheel wells, but only bubbling and some at the rear of the running boards and mine is an 03. So pissed. So I went to a body shop and they quoted me at $1100. The one thing he said to me was watch out for places that say they will GRIND the rust down. This does not fully eliminate the infected metal. So i went to macco and they said the magic words...we will grind it down... so I am no going there. The best way to get rid of rust is to actually SAND BLAST the infected area. So when your looking at shops, ask how they are going to get rid of it. Im getting mine done within the next couple of months. Hope this helps.
So I got word back from the last quote, the guy who has is own shop on farm land 5 mins from my place is offering $400 to fix my issues. The interesting point was that he said he was going to sand blast it with a new clear coat on the entire rear panel and wheel well panel. I was impressed of course skeptical at first. Then I got to talk with him and he told me he was in the auto body business for 26 years and works mostly by referral (I was referred to him by the tow truck driver who hauled my p5 when alternator died at an intersection). I have heard nothing but accolades from this guy. I'll let you know how well it turns out once he does the work on my car. I know its a case of buyer beware, but I figure it will at least look better than the crap that is currently infecting my car.
Hi eeveryone, so I have rust on both rear wells as I mentioned before, the hatch emblem and it looks like the passenger strut has some too as well. That POR15 stuff you have to sand down the rust first or do you just put it over the rust? Reason I ask is, if I sand down the rust on the wells, I know the wells are two thin peice of sheet metal that are spot welded together I believe. If I sand that down they will probably seperate...
Also is there much a guy can do with the rust on the strut tower. Its not right on the tower but just to the side of it.
Wife wants to keep the car for a long time.
Also is there much a guy can do with the rust on the strut tower. Its not right on the tower but just to the side of it.
Wife wants to keep the car for a long time.
Well, I have decided to take this project on and fix it myself. The body shop wants over $2000 to do the hatch rust and the rear wheel well rust spots.
So being the do it myselfer I am, I figure lets try. It's gotta look better than the rust anyway I figure right? Plus I have done a fender before on another and I really couldnt tel I had sanded and painted it.
So my first undertaking is going to be the hatch with the following steps, tell me what you guys think.
1.) Remove the emblem.
2.) Brush and scrape off as much of that rust under the emblem I can.
3.) Use the POR-15 cleaner
4.) Use the POR-15 Acid Etch
5.) Brush on POR -15 over the rusted area with a bit of overlap
6.) Just when its dry to touch use some body filler over the POR-15
7.) Let dry
8.) Sand down to contour of hatch and a little bit of exsisting good paint so I can feather it out.
9.) Tape off window and other body panels around the back of the hatch.
10.) Paint bomb using silver color matched paint.
11.) Clear Coat.
Thoughts?
Also I had another question, is that emblem put on with a hole in the body, is that why it rusts? I'm wondering even if I do this if its going to keep rusting from the inside due to the hole?. Either way I think the end result will be a bit better than what I have now.
As for the wheel wheels, Im simply going to sand them down a bit, POR-15, prime and paint I think. They will be a tad rough but not nearly like they are now.
So being the do it myselfer I am, I figure lets try. It's gotta look better than the rust anyway I figure right? Plus I have done a fender before on another and I really couldnt tel I had sanded and painted it.
So my first undertaking is going to be the hatch with the following steps, tell me what you guys think.
1.) Remove the emblem.
2.) Brush and scrape off as much of that rust under the emblem I can.
3.) Use the POR-15 cleaner
4.) Use the POR-15 Acid Etch
5.) Brush on POR -15 over the rusted area with a bit of overlap
6.) Just when its dry to touch use some body filler over the POR-15
7.) Let dry
8.) Sand down to contour of hatch and a little bit of exsisting good paint so I can feather it out.
9.) Tape off window and other body panels around the back of the hatch.
10.) Paint bomb using silver color matched paint.
11.) Clear Coat.
Thoughts?
Also I had another question, is that emblem put on with a hole in the body, is that why it rusts? I'm wondering even if I do this if its going to keep rusting from the inside due to the hole?. Either way I think the end result will be a bit better than what I have now.
As for the wheel wheels, Im simply going to sand them down a bit, POR-15, prime and paint I think. They will be a tad rough but not nearly like they are now.
Ur brave man, it sounds good to me but I don't know that much anyway.
I noticed my emblem started to bubble and rust appeared on the rear wheel wells as well as in one rear bumper corner. Keeping tuned to your progress, if it works for you I might just do it... next year. Keep us updated.
I noticed my emblem started to bubble and rust appeared on the rear wheel wells as well as in one rear bumper corner. Keeping tuned to your progress, if it works for you I might just do it... next year. Keep us updated.
P5SurchJunkE
Member
- :
- Mazda P5 Yellow
What color P5 do you have? Where do you live? I've got a brand new P5 hatch in my basement that I need to sell, in Yellow. It will be a whole lot cheaper than a dealer, and you wont have to worry about f-ing up your rusty one.
I have it on the emblem and passenger rear wheel well. It's starting in the rear door seam as well as the driver door. I have a spot on the inside of the sunroof? I noticed today some rust along a seam in the engine compartment. The engine and most of the mechanical type junk under the car is moderately corroded. I had a funny rattle starting and I was able to just pull out a rusted out exhaust shield by hand.
The '93 HONDA Accord I replaced with this car has less corrosion.
I only have 100,000 kms on this car (~50k I've put on) and it looks like I've treated her like s***. I'm really not that happy with it after ~4years. I'll be buying a Toyota to replace this. I really expected better from a Japanese-made car.
The '93 HONDA Accord I replaced with this car has less corrosion.
I only have 100,000 kms on this car (~50k I've put on) and it looks like I've treated her like s***. I'm really not that happy with it after ~4years. I'll be buying a Toyota to replace this. I really expected better from a Japanese-made car.
Rockin03mp5
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
um... i see 2000 something civics with rust all over their hoods...
mine is rusting too... it happens.
mine is rusting too... it happens.
It would not be so disheartening if the rust was localized in areas that are easily replaceable, like fenders or hoods. Rear wheel arches and door skins can be the most tricky items of sheetmetal to replace.
Anyway, mine seems to be localised in the d/s rear wheel arch (dime sized that I just finished repairing) and bubbling along the inside skin of the drivers door. I'm starting to see minute bubbles on the outside of the rear wheel arch at the meeting point of the rear bumper.
Even if you live in the rust belt, in this day and age of automotive sealents and galvanizing, a 6-7 year old car should not be rusting as much as P5's.
This, however, would give me nightmares: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/piston-slap-mazda-protege5-in-god-we-rust/
Anyway, mine seems to be localised in the d/s rear wheel arch (dime sized that I just finished repairing) and bubbling along the inside skin of the drivers door. I'm starting to see minute bubbles on the outside of the rear wheel arch at the meeting point of the rear bumper.
Even if you live in the rust belt, in this day and age of automotive sealents and galvanizing, a 6-7 year old car should not be rusting as much as P5's.
This, however, would give me nightmares: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/piston-slap-mazda-protege5-in-god-we-rust/
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This is where you are wrong. Cheap production make cars rust very fast. I have seen 3 year old Auidi's that had to replace completely rusted through parts and a 4 year old Mercedes that had to replace the entire floor due to rust. The Norwegian Mazda importer had to replace 90% of the Mazda 3 rear wheel arches due to rust before they treated every car before they was sold. Mazdas has problems with the rear wheel arches since the 80's but are rather good elsewhere.
I treated my MSP with Dinitrol when it was 3years old, and that was not a moment too late because the trunk floor had signs of rust.
Emblem removal
Instructions for removing emblem:
http://www.protege5.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14144
I'm not sure on the hole filling procedure he speaks of, googling could reveal a better way of filling the two small holes.
Instructions for removing emblem:
http://www.protege5.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14144
I'm not sure on the hole filling procedure he speaks of, googling could reveal a better way of filling the two small holes.
