Possible broken MAF, need comparison!

genius

Member
Contributor
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MazdaSpeed Protege
Ok guys in a recent thread, we were talking about relocating the MAF.

Basically what happened was the other day, I popped the clutch while the car was at a dead stop and in reverse. When the car stalled, it shook and the MAF smacked the battery box with some avengence. Now it is running pig rich and lower power.

I took some readings off the MAF and am hoping that a few of you can do the same and report back.

With the car turned off and the key in the ignition, I read 1.48 V with a voltmeter's black lead connected to ground and the red lead connected to the center wire. I was told it should be around .5.

Then I disconnected the connector and measured the resistance of the MAF. From pin A to pin B I measured 14.80 K ohms. From pin A to pin C, I measured 6.8 k ohms. Once again with the car turned off andthe key turned to the ON position.

Just in case anyone needs to ask, there are three pins going from left to right on the MAF. What is left to right you ask:) If you are looking at the MAF with the air flow going from your left to your right while standing on the driver's side the pins are in order A B C.

Thank you for your time!
 
I still think you should have your voltages read by a scanner at idle. The scanner will hook up to the OBDII and will tell you what the MAF is sending to the PCM if your voltages are off it will tell. At idle I'm pretty sure your voltages shold read around (with stock pipes) 2.08v. and with larger diameter piping it will be more around 1.8v.
 
you may also check your o2 sensor in your exhaust manifold. We got different MAF readings for all of the msp we tested and the guy who had the same problem fixed it when we replaced his o2 sensor. It runs great now!!!
 
I would just try cleaning the sensor in it with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and then go to your local auto parts store and pick you up a bosch universal o2 senso and replace the o2 sensor that is in your exhaust mani. if this does not work then try replacing the maf.
 
I was wrong. I assumed our maf had a .5 ref signal. I was in a hurry this morning but had time to check the voltage on mine. I had a 0v ground(of course) 1.4xxV on the middle and a 12v on the last. Sorry for poor info about the maf. Tomorrow I'll check ohms at work for comparison
BTW, If you don't have a cel, your sensor, or at least ref voltage is good meaning the ecu is seeing signal from it
 
ZenProtege said:
I was wrong. I assumed our maf had a .5 ref signal. I was in a hurry this morning but had time to check the voltage on mine. I had a 0v ground(of course) 1.4xxV on the middle and a 12v on the last. Sorry for poor info about the maf. Tomorrow I'll check ohms at work for comparison
BTW, If you don't have a cel, your sensor, or at least ref voltage is good meaning the ecu is seeing signal from it

Phew! That is a good sign. I think I know what is happening. The boost guage line is t'd off to go to my FCD. It is the solid white plastic hose. I had to improvise because I couldn't figure out how to propery connect it and I used a fish tank air pump hose as a sort of coupler. It is kinking and leaking... I need to figure out a better way to splice it.
 
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