Since instructions have already been posted on this forum before, I won't put instructions.
Just showing off my mad skillz.
The brakes were burning hot to the touch, so I had to pour a bucket of cold water all over to cool it down.
I was suprised to see that the centric pads don't fill the entire space of the centric rotor.
Just to double check, I put the oem pad on the new rotor and the oem pad does not fill the entire space either.
there is about 1/8 inch on the inside of the contact area of the rotor that the pad does not touch...meaning this small area will
have a small rust ring... which defeats the purpose of the e-coating. Confused on why they would not match their own
pads to their own rotors exactly, and the only exposed metal would always be wiped away by the pad.
I triple checked the part numbers and everything is correct.
The pads were marked in white lettering on the side of the pad material 105AB 12580 (couldn't find any info on the net about "AB")
Rotors on the box were labeled 120 45080
So I know everything is right...guess that's just how they made em.
I guess that's what you get for made in China. (Althought I still believe these are really good rotors)
Also, this bleeder kit that I rented from Advance Auto is total crap. It was brand new never opened, I even had to break the seal on it.
The bleeder pump had some sort of pop rivet attaching the handle to the cylinder pump rod. The rivet fell out after bleeding 2 calipers.
It was a simple fix just to put a screw through this hole to continue going, but this pump is worthless. The rubber pieces do not have a tight seal,
and unless you hold the pump in one hand and press the rubber pieces together for an air tight seal with your other hand, you will have air in your lines.
I would not advise on purchasing this specific bleeding kit to anyone.
Just showing off my mad skillz.
The brakes were burning hot to the touch, so I had to pour a bucket of cold water all over to cool it down.
I was suprised to see that the centric pads don't fill the entire space of the centric rotor.
Just to double check, I put the oem pad on the new rotor and the oem pad does not fill the entire space either.
there is about 1/8 inch on the inside of the contact area of the rotor that the pad does not touch...meaning this small area will
have a small rust ring... which defeats the purpose of the e-coating. Confused on why they would not match their own
pads to their own rotors exactly, and the only exposed metal would always be wiped away by the pad.
I triple checked the part numbers and everything is correct.
The pads were marked in white lettering on the side of the pad material 105AB 12580 (couldn't find any info on the net about "AB")
Rotors on the box were labeled 120 45080
So I know everything is right...guess that's just how they made em.
I guess that's what you get for made in China. (Althought I still believe these are really good rotors)
Also, this bleeder kit that I rented from Advance Auto is total crap. It was brand new never opened, I even had to break the seal on it.
The bleeder pump had some sort of pop rivet attaching the handle to the cylinder pump rod. The rivet fell out after bleeding 2 calipers.
It was a simple fix just to put a screw through this hole to continue going, but this pump is worthless. The rubber pieces do not have a tight seal,
and unless you hold the pump in one hand and press the rubber pieces together for an air tight seal with your other hand, you will have air in your lines.
I would not advise on purchasing this specific bleeding kit to anyone.
Last edited: