Overheating round 4!

I don't remember if I did or not. And there is no oil in my coolant and no coolant in my oil as of last week. Ill do a compression test to check compression and eventually clean egr while I'm at it.
 
The ONLY code that flashes the CEL (on our car) is engine misfire. (P0300-P0304)
 
I've had a solid cyl 3 light before but now it's just going nuts. Could misfires cause the overheating too? Maybe rings? Just tossing around some ideas
 
Or maybe timing tensioner is going bad causing slack in the belt and everything to be thrown off? I'm taking it to a shop to get taken care of because I can't keep throwin cash at it diagnostically. It needs to be taken care of
 
Idk if you have done this yet or not, but have you checked your radiator cap? The seal, spring, and pressure valve? It's a simple fix, and I've heard this can cause the boiling coolant due to lack of pressure in the system.
 
The overheating itself could cause the misfiring (flashing CEL). When the overheating gets fixed, the misfiring may cease along with the overheating.

I remember Igidy only had a misfire when his engine got hot,.... his issue ended up being coils.

I think you've got compression gases leaking past the head gasket and into the cooling system. The compression pressure is around 170 PSI and can easily displace the coolant that's at a pressure of only about 16 PSI. After the coolant is forced out, the engine overheats quickly.

Is it possible to re torque your head bolts ??? (I'm asking because I don't know,... retightening head bolts may not be a smart thing to do ??,... you may have to do an entire head gasket job or replace all your head bolts.)

I think that leak down test should be your next step,... it may very well pinpoint your problem.
 
...or a crack in the head itself.

Under the forces of combustion (hard to simulate with a compression check) a crack can open and allow exhaust gas into the coolant system ('bubbles in the over flow tank').

The way to be sure is to have a garage analyze the bubbles (use an exhaust gas sniffer).
 
One of my coils was bad, replaced that and now the misfire and CEL is cleared but I haven't driven far enough to get it hot (usually it starts climbing after 20miles at highway speed). The guy at the shop drove the car around for about an hour and left it run in the parking lot for another hour, and the temp gauge did not move. With no airflow, fans kicked on normally and the guy said he couldn't get it to overheat or get hot at all. Retourqing head bolts I don't think is smart. But tearing into the motor again is gonna suck. If a shop does a leak down test, compression test, and coolant exhaust sniffer test, how much you think that'd run?
 
If the shop did that and replacing the coil solve the problem then don't worry, a bad coil will cause misfire and a misfire can make an engine to overheat, pre-detonation or knocking.
 
Good deal. I'm thinking about getting a new battery too just because mine is fairly corroded and you can't have the spark without sufficient power.
 

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