I have to wait to ceramic coat mine too! And get the midpipe, which may be a while lol. Not sure how necessary doing the midpipe is, since it is away from all the coolant lines, etc. But it may benefit since it runs right next to the oil pan.
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I have to wait to ceramic coat mine too! And get the midpipe, which may be a while lol. Not sure how necessary doing the midpipe is, since it is away from all the coolant lines, etc. But it may benefit since it runs right next to the oil pan.
JonnyTheJet
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- LaserBlue P5
Where are you getting your mid pipe from? Cat or no cat?
Doing a crazy 3-way trade with Hung and Darrell (31r). Catted.
JonnyTheJet
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I've got a straight pipe that's been sitting around for a couple of years. I'm scared to put it on caus3 its gonna be super loud. It came off of rishi's p5 from back in the days.
Hey everyone don't forget to do the non-fouler trick so you don't get a CEL: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ure-Cel-Mil-from-removing-cat-with-Non-Fouler
Was going to install mine tonight but I broke my torque wrench when trying to get the rear O2 sensor out. The front came out fine, but the rear was apparently a bit more stubborn and the head of the ratchet anvil shattered. Piece of crap wasnt even anywhere near its max range either. Oh, well I have been wanting a new one anyway. I plan on getting a Precision Instrument Dial Indicating type.
Tried installing mine yesterday/today and the O2 sensor does not clear the AWR oil pan. I know because I left the sensor in while I was bolting down the header and the O2 bung snapped off the header from the pressure against the pan... at least I didn't break the pan...
I'll be giving AWR a call tomorrow.
I'll be giving AWR a call tomorrow.
This might help, I had AWR put the bung on the other side anyways;
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
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JonnyTheJet
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That's some BS! Good luck man.
I spoke to Tony today and he was amazed that happened since the pan has a pie cut on it to specifically clear the O2 sensor. I will be making measurements and sending the header for him to weld on a new bung in a different place. He said he would take care of it.
I also mentioned my ill-fitting SLS catted midpipe, and he said if I sent it to him, he could make sure the flanges fit perfectly. SUPER AWESOME service and really taking care of me. I'll be sending them out this week.
I also mentioned my ill-fitting SLS catted midpipe, and he said if I sent it to him, he could make sure the flanges fit perfectly. SUPER AWESOME service and really taking care of me. I'll be sending them out this week.
So I installed my header today and it is contacting my lower radiator hose. It is actually where the hose connects with the block so I cant even try and move the hose out of the way since it is at the point that it sleeves over the metal portion. Anyone else have this issue or know a way to work through it?
So I guess my only plan of action is to try and get a water outlet/thermostat housing that is shorter and/or angled away from the header. I am not sure if AWR can do it, but the email sort of suggested they could. I am still waiting on a response. I pulled it off to see if I could possibly bend it myself, but that isnt going to happen. Also I dont know i the metal can take the stress.
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