Need help!!!

You know I may not have an intimate knowledge of electricity but I do have an extensive knowledge of cars and the reason I suggested that is because I speak from experience. For you to say it's not a sensor related issue sounds pretty dumb to me because he said when he hits boost the fuse blows. Now how would the fuse know to blow. Too much power went through it, and why did this happen, the ecu got overstimulated, by what you ask, a sensor because how does the ecu function and recieve signals from sensors because if you look under your hood you have a lot of sensors. That is how the ecu knows what is going on. So before you go and over complicate things for this guy with your big talk and big words remember its always something simple.

This is for the guy who started the thread. Ok buddy when you installed the turbo kit did you do any wiring whatsoever, even if it was very minor. Check and make sure you did it right and find out what all the wires do that you touched.(i say this because I see a lot of people just reading instructions off the internet and just matching the colors they read off not knowing what they do). If the wiring is ok the go ahead and contact the guys at speedcircuit.net and ask them about their o2 signal voltage clamp and let them know your problem. If that doesn't work look into changing your MAF to a MSP MAF, I'm not sure if they are different or not but on dsm's you have to change it and also on nissan's.

Oh and by the way I think it's amazing how no matter what forum you on, the talent you can find on these forums is amazing, everyone is an engineer or a scientist or the president. Whenever anyone's knowledge on a subject is questioned all of the sudden they are somone important.

Oh and by the by I do this for a living. I'm a tuner for GG performance and I deal with anything electrical that comes in. So go ahead and continue to tell these people I don't know what I'm talking about, because you used to make engines for lawn mowers, while I do this everyday for a living. Come to think of it I think I do know something about chassis elctronics but that something is very small.
 
if you're honestly in charge of troubleshooting electrical problems and your solution is a O2 clamp... i pity your customers. There are applications where that is necessary, and there are applications where that is just masking the problem.

Assuming there are no shorts, and I can't come up with a good reason a short would only show up under boost, my best guess is that the injectors are staying open longer under boost. This is requiring more energy to be drawn by the ECU circuit (i'm assuming they're powered by that circuit, though definitely not sure)... causing the fuse to pop. Hopefully I'm right and upping to a 15 amp fuse is enough to drive the injectors without popping anything important...

or, you can just try O2 claming the car, seeing as my bet is your O2 readings are within normal operation ranges anyway, it will change nothing.
 
I love these flaming matches... (flame)

Obama is on this forum? Where you at dawg!?

gg performance? (scratch)
LOL!

It's interesting that both schools of though come out and there is now some definite things to try... Let us know how the guess and test goes...

Was there any wires with your turbo kit that you had to connect to different points in the engine bay or to the fuse box? Have a look at all the ends of the connections and see if any have jumped off or may be loose and could be touching wire to metal.... It may just be that during boost and the extra torque, a wire may be too short or getting pulled funny...

And on with the flameshow! (direct)
 
whoa! that was intense!! (bicker)(bicker) but very interesting

GG- the only wiring i did was for my gauges, which i ran a power wire from the radio (acc) fuse. i got the prosport gauges so when i turn my headlights on they turn green and i wired that up to the dim switch. i have a MSP ECU (until i can get a another EMS) so i dont think that the ECU would be that cause since it is programmed to see boost.

Alamo- when i wired it all up i used heat shrink over the connectors just so what you said could happen ... wouldnt happen ... bc i didnt want to take the chance and have something go wrong ..... ummmm too late i guess lol
 
and wagon i got a 15 amp fuse and im gonna go out and put it in and see how everything burns down!!... i mean goes down!! (knocks on wood)
 
i'm not getting intense, just presenting what I believe and the things which support it. let me go check my ECU fuse quick.. 10 amp.
 
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i know that your not taking responsibility for changing the fuse, i get that ... but would you do it on your car? use a 15amp?
 
gotcha! .. well im gonna go and try the 15 amp real quick .. and take a couple of other fuses along just in case it does pop then i have a way home!!
 
lol what commercial break? did u say you had a regular protege maf? cuz if you do i vet thats what is ****** everything up or maybe your alternator is bad
 
okay the 15 didnt pop . . and i didnt know that the reg proteges MAF was diff. than the MSP's.

but anyways after a few quick runs, the 15 didnt pop but it was running like s***! i mean hesitation all throughout the power band. and i know that an ECU problem but its almost worth going back to a 10 and not boosting bc that 15 was awful!
 
I'd do it... 5 extra amps shouldn't be enough to start a fire or melt wire coatings... maybe 30 or 40 amp. If you're really worried about it you could take it somewhere but they'd charge and arm, leg and maybe your left ... !

I still say consult the manual and look to see what would be connected to that fuse... the trouble shooting section should have fuse related issues in it.
 
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