My Wild? KL Build

JKPgt96

10k RPM Probe
:
'95 Probe GT
Alright, so I am going to finally make my own build thread.

Background..well, I built a modest 10:1 n/a motor with a 55 shot, lost the oil pump with 12k miles on it. So I parted that motor and began researching and digging for information on my current project.

The current project is as follows:

Wiseco 12:1 .020" overbore pistons
SCAT 5.400" Ford Mustang Forged H-Beam Rods
ARP2000 Hardware
ARP Head Studs
Tapped Millenia S Oil Pan/AWR Pan
Moroso Single Stage External Wet Sump Oil Pump
Custom Engine Dampener
Stewart Components 55 GPM In-Line Electric Water Pump
323 Manual Steering Rack
Custom Tie Rod Ends I/O
Custom Longtube Headers
AWR Front/Rear Mounts
Medieval Passenger Mount
Custom Trans Mount
Mx3 Lower Trans Mount
Triumph T595 40mm Individual Throttles (fitted with Duratec injectors so that I may have a selection of drop-in larger inj.)
HEAVILY Ported Heads
Ferrea Valves (Std. Size)
Mazda Motorsports Solid Lifters (shim under bucket 34g versus heavier OEM Shim over bucket)
Interprep Valve Springs
Custom Lash Caps
Chromoly Retainers
Custom Ground Cams:
250 deg @ .050" (actual duration) .405" Lift Intake/Exhaust
Custom ITB Flanges
NGK Powerdex Wideband O2
Megasquirt3/MS3x
Coil-on-plug Conversion

Progressive Direct Port nitrous (150-175)

Transmission

PAR 3rd Gearset
Custom 1st gear (3.07 vs. 3.307)
PAR Billet Cups
MFactory LSD
PAR 4.43 Final Drive
Southbend OFE Stg. 4 Full Face Clutch
Fidanza 9 lb. Flywheel

Other

Millenia S Two Piston Calipers
3000gt VR4 Rotors (12.2")
Braided Lines (clutch/brakes)
1st Gen Probe Clutch Master Cylinder


Anyways...here are some pics of some of the parts that are sitting around

ITBs
DSC03685.jpg


DSC03689.jpg


Interprep Springs
DSC03671.jpg


Rods/Pistons (These are the old non-forged SCAT I-beams)
DSC03673.jpg


DSC03676.jpg


DSC03063.jpg



The car also just got:
AWR 19mm Rear Sway Bar
Custom Tubular Rear Lower Control Arms w/ heim joints
Custom Tubular Lateral Bars w/ heim joints
AWR Rear Trailing Arms

I have more parts sitting around, just no pics of them. I get my oil pump tomorrow, and will post up pics of it and the heads when they are done!

John
 
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Its coming along..hopefully I will have something for you SFL guys this year when Flyrtle rolls around :D
 
Well, quick update..

The heads are nearing completion, I will put up pics of them when they are done. I have gotten the oil pump finally and begun the Solidworks designing of the mounting bracket. I have also changed the rods that I will be using to use something lighter, narrower, but just as strong as the H-Beams.

The oiling system will run with the water system on my junker motor for a while, while the bottom end is being put together at the shop and such. Once the bugs are worked out in that I will drop the motor in..hopefully by the end of June I will have it fired up.

The goal is to make a 12s pass n/a this season on a stock trans, then take care of a couple more goodies I have up my sleeve this winter :D
 
Personally I'd ditch the 'Busa ITBs and go with something aftermarket like TWM. Will those 4 ITBs flow enough air for the 6-cylinder KL?
 
This is the problem. No company makes a low profile ITB setup that I will need. I am having custom flanges made that transition from the TB shape to the port shape, just to cut height on the entire setup. I am actually chopping the tops of the TB also to cut height on them for starters. There is a LOT of custom work and modding to the ITBs just to make them come close to fitting under a small cowl (as to not interrupt the lines of the car). The injector mounts also have to be modified to fit top feed injectors just so I can mount the rails on the outside of the TBs.

To have someone make a totally custom and low profile ITB setup for me would be in the neighborhood of 5k, this setup will end up costing me in the neighborhood of 1500-2000, and function EXACTLY as I want it to and fit just how I want/need it to.

Also, I am using 6, I have another set of ITBs on the way. 6 42mm throttle bodies will feed my motor all the air it can possibly need, even on the bottle.

Thanks though..just wouldn't work/be practical at all.
 
This build is already nuts...

How's the 19mm rear sway bar? Does it make it too tail-happy on the street? What's the rest of your suspension setup as far as struts and coils?
 
Thanks! It has never been done in a street driven car so..that makes things much harder.

I would love to tell you, but I took it off because the custom control arms and such have no place to mount them..yet.

The suspension setup is this:

Tokico Illuminas
Tokico Springs
PRD RSTB
Custom Control Arms
Custom Lateral Bars
AWR Trailing arms
PRO Traction Bars
AWR 19mm RSB
Adjustable endlinks.


That is all for now..it will get custom cross members up front, Tein coilovers with an EDFC, 4/6 point cage also..
 
Thanks! It has never been done in a street driven car so..that makes things much harder.

I would love to tell you, but I took it off because the custom control arms and such have no place to mount them..yet.

The suspension setup is this:

Tokico Illuminas
Tokico Springs
PRD RSTB
Custom Control Arms
Custom Lateral Bars
AWR Trailing arms
PRO Traction Bars
AWR 19mm RSB
Adjustable endlinks.


That is all for now..it will get custom cross members up front, Tein coilovers with an EDFC, 4/6 point cage also..

Wow, it's going to be a street car that will melt your face in the corners and in the straights... I hope you get lots of track time!(drive2)
 
I will..once I get the track times at the drag strip that I want, I have a big brake setup for the front and rear, but it will not clear the 15's that I intend to use for the drag radials.

Should be a fun ride..I wanted an all around performer, in a street car, full interior package..which is what I should have! :D I have an especially trick idea for the external battery kill switch..stay tuned!
 
Chromoly Retainers get to the shop monday, and the heads should be done some time next week!
 
12:1 - any word on the fuel you're going to run at that compression ratio?
I imagine you're going to be chasing down some rather extreme RPM - watch the piston speed vs fuel burn speed or you might find yourself running out of puff in the top end :)
 
Going to likely run pump gas on a VERY VERY conservative tune...93 only. But when I am feeling some spirited driving coming on..93/100ish mix..it will see race gas n/a some, and definitely on the jug.

I am going to turn 10k+ rpm..the injectors will be fine, even on 10k rpm ;)
 
Going to likely run pump gas on a VERY VERY conservative tune...93 only. But when I am feeling some spirited driving coming on..93/100ish mix..it will see race gas n/a some, and definitely on the jug.

I am going to turn 10k+ rpm..the injectors will be fine, even on 10k rpm ;)
He's not talking about injector flowrates - he's talking about fuel burn speed. Depending on your rod/piston geometry, above 10,000 RPM you may find out the piston is moving faster than the pressure waves caused by the air/fuel detonation.
 
I realize this..I will say that the build has been done by a couple people (similar, but with a touch more compression) and they have not had issue..both of them spinning over 10000 rpm..

I have not really decided what I will spin the motor to..at least 10k, but depending on how the power curve looks I might not spin anything more than that. I am sure I could on the bottle and still make power, but I just have to see where the car makes power..
 
I realize this..I will say that the build has been done by a couple people (similar, but with a touch more compression) and they have not had issue..both of them spinning over 10000 rpm..

I have not really decided what I will spin the motor to..at least 10k, but depending on how the power curve looks I might not spin anything more than that. I am sure I could on the bottle and still make power, but I just have to see where the car makes power..
Sounds good.

Just to ask a question, why 10,000+ RPM? Is it just for the "cool factor" or is that where you plan on making peak power? I'm not trying to dissuade you or anything but making maximum power at 10,000 RPM is going to leave a lot to be desired at lower RPM. I own an RX-7 so I know a little about making power at rediculous engine speeds at the expense of low-RPM driveability :)
 
In all honesty..to make the power that I want to in a KL n/a...there is not another option. The motors love to rev, and so I am just letting it do what it loves to do, lol. I should have the cam to make power up around 9500 or so, but we shall see. The rest of the motor will easily handle 10k rpm. If the car does not make power up past 9000 or so, then I may try another cam grind, but I don't think I will need to...or I will just let it stay as-is and see how the curve looks up top on the bottle and go from there. Either way the dyno will tell what the car revs to initially and I will go from there.

I know the driveability will not be good down low, but with relatively short gearing (a shorter final coming) and not driving it all the time, I am not too worried about it. It should have better throttle response with the ITBs..that counts for something, right?! ;)
 
I know the driveability will not be good down low, but with relatively short gearing (a shorter final coming) and not driving it all the time, I am not too worried about it. It should have better throttle response with the ITBs..that counts for something, right?! ;)
Haha - sounds like my planned rotary build! I'm also planning on going with ITBs and a higher ring and pinion ratio (higher number = higher engine speed) but I only want to go to 9,000 RPM because I don't want to have to go to an aftermarket tachometer.
 
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