My new turbo from Modern Performance!
- Thread starter Bigg Tim
- Start date
It starts to pull real hard between 3000 and 3500 RPM. I haven't really tried to pinpoint the exact RPM that it pulls the hardest, but it's supposed to be fully spooled at 3K. Still trying to take it easy until the tuning is done. I had to work too much this week and didn't have any time to do so, hopefully I will be closer to being done this week, but who knows what wil come up.
Mike R, I plan on hitting 75&80 when it's ready. I want to run it at about 12PSI to see what I have. I don't know when I will run, but I'll let ya know whenever I do and maybe you can head down there and me up with us. My friend has an MSP and he wants to run it also.
Hi, deckedoutmp5,
A friend from another forum www.protegeclub.com told me that you have installed an turbo kit to you auto P5.
I am also thinking about getting one.
Can you answer to some of my question please?
Is your P5 2002 or 2003?
Will the turbocharger hurt the "sport-shift" auto transmission?
Is it hard to install and manage?
A friend from another forum www.protegeclub.com told me that you have installed an turbo kit to you auto P5.
I am also thinking about getting one.
Can you answer to some of my question please?
Is your P5 2002 or 2003?
Will the turbocharger hurt the "sport-shift" auto transmission?
Is it hard to install and manage?
deckedoutmp5
Member
- :
- 02 MP5 #3256
misbehave said:
mine is a 2002
wont hurt the sport shift (just know how to drive an auto... everyone thinks your just floor it but thats not the case)
i am running 10 lbs of boost. but i will run 8 for every day and 15 for racing. new injectors and stuff on the way. the autos are more tricky to turbo, and one i get mine all fine tuned i will post about it. peace- trav
Juat add 2 inches to the bottom of the core support and that's how low they'll be on your car. My car is lowered and I haven't had any issues yet, but I doo need to raise it up a little, the 3" exhaust is hitting in the rear. I didn't want to cut anything on my car that's why I like this setup. You could cut some of the bottom of the core support to get them higher, but then you will also need to cut some off of the piping too. If you want them higher, I'm sure Nick could fab yours a little different.
It is very easy to use, but there is a lot of trial and error when it comes to tuning. You have to add fuel and see how she runs and if it's too rich, then take it away and so on. But the thing is, you have to to this through all throttle positions and rpms, so it does take time, and if you don't have someone else to drive the car while you do it, then it's even harder cause you have to do it all while you are driving (like I am doing).
As for if it's doing the job, hell yeah!! You can tell immediatly when you add fuel or take it away. I have mine still rich and can really tell it's using a lot of gas becasue I have to fill up a lot more than before, but I'm still tuning, so hopefully later it won't use as much. In regards to timing, I don't know how to tell if it actually is retarding timing. I have a -4 degree retard at full throttle and it degresses to -1 just over half throttle. I am running 8PSI right now and have yet to hear detonation, but that could also be because of me running so rich. This unit DEFINATLY is a must have.
BTW My tuning is taking so long because I have the 80mm mass air on it. When I had the stock unit on, I did not have to tell the stock injectors when to fire, so there was a lot less tuning, all I had to do was to add fuel via the extra injectors and the timing and that was it. So if you will be staying with the stock unit, the tuning should be a snap! Hope this helps.
As for if it's doing the job, hell yeah!! You can tell immediatly when you add fuel or take it away. I have mine still rich and can really tell it's using a lot of gas becasue I have to fill up a lot more than before, but I'm still tuning, so hopefully later it won't use as much. In regards to timing, I don't know how to tell if it actually is retarding timing. I have a -4 degree retard at full throttle and it degresses to -1 just over half throttle. I am running 8PSI right now and have yet to hear detonation, but that could also be because of me running so rich. This unit DEFINATLY is a must have.
BTW My tuning is taking so long because I have the 80mm mass air on it. When I had the stock unit on, I did not have to tell the stock injectors when to fire, so there was a lot less tuning, all I had to do was to add fuel via the extra injectors and the timing and that was it. So if you will be staying with the stock unit, the tuning should be a snap! Hope this helps.
My piggy back runs very very well. When first tuned I decided to have it run a bit rich just so my engine could breakin a bit and get used to the boost...I have a LED wired to my injectors to show me when they are firing, and it is always dead on. I am going back to the shop this weekend to get the larger mass air and to fine tune the piggyback..I will let you guys know more about the unit becuase I plan on having Nick show me how it rally works when we re-tune, since the first time I was so excited to be driving my car that I really didn't pay attention to what he was doing on the laptop hehe
Well, I have to get me a new clutch now. I was driving, trying to fine tune it, and hit full throttle and BAMM! At about 4k, in third gear, the clutch gave way and it shot to 6 in the snap of a finger. But I have to tell you it was pulling hard as hell, never felt it pull that hard. It's not totally gone yet, but I definatly will be going easy on the boost. I can still drive it but the power is a bit too much for the clutch. BTW I only have 20k on it. So I guess I'll do clutch and flywheel, but not sure. I have Nick looking into what would work best. Any suggestions? Man when the new clutch is in, I am definatley going to the track to see the numbers!
Thanks man! I checked it out and it said that it was rated for 268 ft-lbs of torque. Is this enough? I plan on running 10 PSI daily and 12-14 at the track and am not sure how much power this will deliver. I see that Hiboost put down 300+ ft-lbs of torque at 14 PSI and if I even have a chance of putting down close to this much power, then this clutch wouln't hold up long.
I have been looking at different clutches and the ACT seems to be the way to go. There is no chatter associated with them unlike the Clutchmaster stage III. I guess I'll wait and see what Nick comes up with. He would be the only person that would be able to tell me what kind of clutch I need for my setup. Did you notice a difference with the flywheel? If so can you tell me what it did? Thanks.
I have been looking at different clutches and the ACT seems to be the way to go. There is no chatter associated with them unlike the Clutchmaster stage III. I guess I'll wait and see what Nick comes up with. He would be the only person that would be able to tell me what kind of clutch I need for my setup. Did you notice a difference with the flywheel? If so can you tell me what it did? Thanks.
LinuxRacr said:See my sig ticker tape for suggestions!
LOL, check the ticker tape.... I like that
Check my ticker tape too
The clutch is nice and the flywheel rocks. Car revs much more freely and does not drop as many rpm's between gears. Just to let you know you can still spin that clutch if you really get after it, I did it last night. I down shifted hard from third to second and slipped the clutch a little and the car jump straight to redline and did not move. Or, maybe I was just losing traction.....spinning
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
Yes, a lighter flywheel will "lose" inertia faster and thus slow down more than a heavy one will. So changing to a lighter flywheel will make the car a little easier to snub off the line and it will drop rpm faster, but it will rev much faster!
