msp turbo kit for my p5

snowblazin

Member
:
2014 Mazda3 SGT - It's the color of snowflakes!
Hey guys, I'm piecing together a msp kit for my p5. I think I have a pretty complete list of what I'd need, however I have a couple questions. Do I absolutely need the msp MAF? Would there be any advantages over the p5 MAF. I know I need the ecu and plan on picking one up. I also don't know if I need the callaway J pipe. The other part that is confusing me is which hard coolant lines I'd need along with water hookups for the block. Would the stock p5 lines work or are there additional ones? Thanks in advance everyone!

- Justin
 
You do not need to purchase a different maf. YOur stock j pipe will work, but a msp one has a hole cut for an 02 sensor. For the coolant, I replaced the thermostat with a msp one, and you need to get two hard coolant lines. The oil cooler is a must too imo. There is a silicone elbow that you need in order to make all the coolant lines work, as well as a banjo fitting that is a part of the oil cooler.
 
Moeed said:
You do not need to purchase a different maf. YOur stock j pipe will work, but a msp one has a hole cut for an 02 sensor. For the coolant, I replaced the thermostat with a msp one, and you need to get two hard coolant lines. The oil cooler is a must too imo. There is a silicone elbow that you need in order to make all the coolant lines work, as well as a banjo fitting that is a part of the oil cooler.
Thanks for the info, any pics would be much appreciated! I wouldn't need the extra o2 sensor in the j pipe would I? I don't think I'm adding or taking out any sensors...but that's why I'm asking you guys!
 
snowblazin said:
Thanks for the info, any pics would be much appreciated! I wouldn't need the extra o2 sensor in the j pipe would I? I don't think I'm adding or taking out any sensors...but that's why I'm asking you guys!

No you dont have any extra sensors, but on the msp, the 2nd O2 was stretched to be after the first cat. What I did was put my 2nd O2 into the J pipe piece and have a spark plug nonfouler so I didnt throw a CEL. I wll need to do some an oil change soon, ILl try to get pics.
 
(bump) anyone know where I can get a msp ecu? used or otherwise. thanks!
 
^ Thanks man! Ordered my ECU. I noticed the plugs in the speed are gapped a little smaller, logically I'm inclined to believe that I should change them to the speed size, any input?
 
Just buy some Ngk cold plugs or any (name brand) plugs that are cold plugs or said to be for turbo/nitrus aplications.
 
MSP Maf = P5 Maf

J-Pipes are identical

the midpipe (is what you were refering to proably) has 2 cats instead of one and that o2 hole

honestly why not just grab an apexr1.com 2.5inch pipe if your doing the swap
 
Well I already have a megan racing catback on there now, but I'm switching it for the hks most likely. Whichever I choose to go with I'm going to have a local shop make me something custom from the turbo back. When you suggest apexr1.com, was that for the midpipe or the downpipe?
EDIT: I just saw the downpipe for the msp, the problem is I dunno if it'll fit on the p5 since it's a bit longer of a vehicle.
 
I believe the MSP oil cooler to be overrated. i already have a supplemental oil cooler that I will likely be installing this spring to keep the oil temps down. I believe you need an oil cooler, but the MSP one is somewhat useless.

Consider that the thermostat on the MSP is designed to be open at 180 degrees F, and often times in traffic at idle the water temp will hit 210F (digital gauges, reading the ECU).

Consider also that the normal running oil temp in summer is 200-210F (analogue gauge reading oil temp at the relocated filter). According to several studies I've read, optimal oil temp is 180 degrees for both synth and non-synth oil, synth is able to handle the higher temps better without breaking down. (perma-cool website). What marginal benefit will running hot coolant maybe 10-15 degrees cooler than the oil do to remove heat from the oil? My conclusion based on my gauge readings, is that the temps are so close that there is no point to having a water cooled oil cooler.

So, before you go and source the part and the longer bolt to make it work, and expend the effort, think about what difference it will make and how you might better spend your money. BTW I bought the perma-cool filter relocation and oil cooler kit almost 2 years ago, but haven't yet installed the cooler. *shame on me*...
 
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Yea, I've decided against the oil cooler for now. I picked up a greddy full auto tt to cool it off. Eventually when I need more power and do the hardpipes and fm, I may do it then, but for now this'll do. Thanks for the input guys, my last hurdle is gonna be the ac condenser. I took a second look and it's def gonna get in the way of the sm. I wonder if there's a way to just move it a little lower??
 
i suggest replacing any gasket you will be removing during the install and also replace your exhaust manifold bolts...

I really would urge you to do the oil cooler even if you go after market. I would think with this type of an investment you would want to take every protective measures that may be possible. Also you will need to tighten the exhaust manifold back with a certian order and it is a two stage tighten first one at 8lbs and then next one at 16lbs... and follow the torque spec for everything....

This should hopefully mitigate the chances of cuasing issues down the road...
 
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