motor build?

All this talk, somethings never change on this forum. Whats the weak link in these motors? Oil starvation and cavitation get the Doc B setup or I can almost guarantee you will be doing this again. Dont listen to the backyard mechanics/vendors they are only looking to make money tread wisely and do the research yourself.

Were do I get the doc b oil pump? Thats what maxx was telling me too can you pm me the website?
 
Search "The FS-DE Oil System Thread" and read it ALL. Every last word.

My idle pressure is over 120psi when cold, and 30psi when hot. At redline hot, I'm getting almost 90psi with the DocB setup. I can set it to whatever I want. Spend the cash, and protect your investment. I used Calgary Aluminum welding and fabrication to weld me a bung in the windage tray for $100 for the oil system return line.

For the head, there are HUGE gains to be had if you wish to spend the cash. Actually, the power per dollar ratio on the FS head is pretty good. The stock one is just so damn bad. Where'd you take the engine to have it built? Precise Engine did all my machine work, they're top notch.
 
Ok I was wrong lol. A couple people I've talked to around here(pretty knowledgable peeps) told me 14psi is all the ssafc could handle. My bad for tge false info. And I swear I've read 14 is where the Turbo stops running effeciently.

And yes, after that it will just be blowing hot air.

According to the calculation method from garretts turbo 301, i calculate the eff right at 15.1 but I rounded down to 15 :)
 
Search "The FS-DE Oil System Thread" and read it ALL. Every last word.

My idle pressure is over 120psi when cold, and 30psi when hot. At redline hot, I'm getting almost 90psi with the DocB setup. I can set it to whatever I want. Spend the cash, and protect your investment. I used Calgary Aluminum welding and fabrication to weld me a bung in the windage tray for $100 for the oil system return line.
For the head, there are HUGE gains to be had if you wish to spend the cash. Actually, the power per dollar ratio on the FS head is pretty good. The stock one is just so damn bad. Where'd you take the engine to have it built? Precise Engine did all my machine work, they're top notch.
. Is that person still selling or modding those pumps? And did you use ur old pump and send it to him or did you just buy a new pump?
 
if you think the factory turbo is efficient to 15 psi, try again. link to calculator + the assumptions you used? (for v.e., minimum effeciency, etc)

14psi is already pushing it. response tails off rapidly after about 9 psi, its a big hairdryer at 14 or more. i generally tell people its barely worth going above 12 unless youre strapped for cash and are already forged.
 
Ya I'm probably just gonna break in my new motor at 10psi. I'm gonna try to get everything I need altogether for the install though like timing belt, water pump, passenger and driver side motor mounts medium stiffness. And that modified oil pump from doc b. After that Is all figured out I'm gonna look into getting all the adapters I need for my gt2871r then once that is all installed gonna figure out what the best ems will be for me either aem, or haltech and also a wide band afr gauge for Dyno tuning
 
Wideband should be #1 on your list of priorities, not once you get an EMS. It's the second most important gauge you'll ever own. Mopac stocks tons for a few hundred bucks.
 
Ya I guess I'll hit one up soon. By the way the machine shop was called j&w it's allot closer to my house than precise that's why I ended up going there
 
if you have a 2871R, then definitely use it. great top end for a built motor. if you would have to go buy one, look at citizenpro's t3 setup instead... you can get a sick mani and downpipe for $525 and i bet you can convince him to throw in his old t3/t04e which needs rebuilding. that turbo pushes some serious heat -- definitely more than a 28RS, and the top-end aligns with a built motor quite nicely.
 
ya i will get a wideband soon just trying to figure out about this oil pump setup first. When is it most important to run this oil pump like 14psi and over? cuz i was thinkin if im only running 10psi i should be fine. I also tend to check my oil levels quite frequently so i thought i should be fine for the first little while.
 
What do you mean by oil issues though? Like burning oil? And how hard of driving and how often were they checking there oil?
 
Dude. The oil pump is a must because the stock pressure relief valve foams oil. Foamy oil doesn't lubricate and leaks past seals. If you wanna blow your motor right off the get go, skip the oil pump. Even with 10W30 synth oil I am idling at 20 psi and cold starting at 85psi. It was worth every penny. l have an oil pump that I can sell you then you send it to DocB and have him service it and return it.

Doesn't seem to me like you're listening to Maxx. Read the DocB thread and ask questions till you get it. Cheaping out will only land you heartache and woe.

Edit: I don't mean to sound harsh but I've read more than a few threads of people spinning bearings (due to oiling issues) and having to spend tons of money to fix the problem.
 
Last edited:
the oil pump is an extremely good idea, especially with a built motor. oil starvation is in fact what kills most proteges, and built or not, regardless of how often you check the oil, the msp is a finicky beast and the money for the pump is nothing next to the motor. i didnt see it mentioned but the sump and pickup for the oil system are beyond terrible, proteges die left and right during autox... one hard turn and bang.
 
Its got **** all to do with checking the oil. It's that the stock oil pump's design is garbage no matter what kind of oil you run or how often you check it. When you came by to pick up the block, I told you that there is really no such thing as a "cheap" engine build. It's going to cost you some serious coin, why skimp on something so important as your oil system? If oil is the blood of an engine, the pump is the engine's heart. Protect your investment, and please, don't try to save money here and there. You either have the cash to do it right, or you don't.
 
Lol I believe u maxx I'm not trying to cheap out or claim that anyone on here does not know what there talking about. I believe u and am gonna buy the modded pump I would feel like s*** forreal if my motor blew up due to me being stupid and cheeping out. It's just that it is expensive with parts and all and was just wondering if I could run it with the regular pump for the time being. The way people are talking about it though I should probabley just do the modes pump install at the same time I put the motor in. Thanks for all the input people I really do appreciate it.
 
The pump is a **** to change anyway, just do it once and be done with it.
 
you can do it for now, just dont drive like an idiot or beat on the car. note that this in no way is any kind of guarantee about your oil system.
 
Back