Mazdaspeed 3 traction

just read the edmunds article, thanks. but i have wider tires and a rear anti-sway bar that's 90% stiffer, front 40% stiffer, so much stiffer i don't cut the rear tires like i did before the bars were added. Discount Tires is putting 245s on the front this week. but let's move ahead-- anyway of putting a speed6 rear end on the speed3?
 
To the OP, you could go with a Cobb AP using the ATR software to reduce boost at certain revs for those two gears.
 
I'm not sure why the loss in 0-60 times. I don't think it is too much rubber on the road, given that some guys here are running on the dragstrip with DOT legal drag radials and knocking a half-second off of their quarter mile times, getting down into the high 12's on cars that are basically stock otherwise.

I'm not an autocrosser, but have made a few (maybe more than a few) quarter mile runs, and also have an accelerometer. Under ideal conditions I can cut 0-60 in 5.1 seconds on stock tires and rims, and typically hit 60 between 5.1 and 5.4 seconds, depending on whether I get the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts at the ideal shift point.

I think my accelerometer (G-Tech Pro RR) must work much like the Beltronics.

It has lateral acceleration G force calculation and charting, but I have never used that function. It does correlate to within one tenth of a second in quarter mile runs.

My launches still suck. Any launch over 2500 rpm just goes up in smoke. I try to launch now at 2000-2200 rpm and just feather the throttle in the first two gears. I do have the benefit of running at sea level. Here's a typical data chart for straight line performance on a good day:
 

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I don't know if anyone has said this yet, but I figured I would suggest it because I have personal expeience.
It sounds counter intuitive, but a few hours before you plan on racing spray your tires down with WD-40. this will clean any thing off of them that may reduce traction AND soften the rubber in the tires.
Obviously this will decrease the life of the tires but it actually works pretty well
 
added cobb tuning anti-sway bars, 8 inch rims with 235-40-18 dunlop direza star. your rear fenders will cut 235 tires if you don't upgrade anti-sways...cobb tuning stage II package on a subbie sti raised its skid pad to 1.05...google: either "road and track" or "car and driver" plus-- "cobb tuning sti." like i've said before, i've test driven the evo 10 and sti and yesterday a nissan 370Z and the speed3 is tighter. you cannot race the speed3 in corners now with the traction control on because the car handles so much better that the traction control gets in the way by applying the brakes. as my business partner says, who's owned several modified toyota supra's, after driving my speed3, "this things riding on rails." i will say that the 370 has the quickest 0-60 and 60-0.

i mean i love my MS3, i guess im just skeptical that a $22k car with some suspension mods can have the same handling (purely by the numbers) as some super cars

Before you guys get your shorts in a wad over the skid pad G's, you need to know the radius of the pad.

Not all skid pads are the same in size and the size affects the amount of G's the same car can pull. Standard radius is 300 feet.

Also, the paved surface coefficient of friction can be quite variable from one pad to another.

The only valid comparisons are those made on the same pad. That's why the magazines always (or should always) use the same skid pad when comparing cars.

excellent point

I don't know if anyone has said this yet, but I figured I would suggest it because I have personal expeience.
It sounds counter intuitive, but a few hours before you plan on racing spray your tires down with WD-40. this will clean any thing off of them that may reduce traction AND soften the rubber in the tires.
Obviously this will decrease the life of the tires but it actually works pretty well

yeah, thats the concern since WD-40 is more or less a corrosive made primarily of hydrocarbons (like gasoline)...theres gotta be a better way lol
 
contrary to popular female thinking--size isn't everything. the first car that i know that did 1g was the old old old mini cooper, b4 bmw took it. the lotus elise handles as well as most super cars. the speed is shorter than a civic. the guy sprinting to 60 in 5.1 on stock wheels and tires may reaffirm my original thought. i'm no einstien but a bicycle races with the skinniest tires. that edmunds link by MRGOSHYMAN alludes to this as a disease that treating it with less HP isn't much fun. but i took away from the article that they agree. the 2010 speed does come with 225s but the dimensions have expanded...just 225s.
 
it seems most people who bring this car to the strip leave DSC off

Then what? Do a burnout? I have not tried a doing a burnout at the track, but my best time has been with the DSC on.

If I take the DSC off I just spin tires or wheel hop.

My best time slip with DSC on (only mod is a Cobb SRI and Kumho tires) at Cecil County Raceway in Rising Sun, MD. (cooler spring weather, don't know elevation)

R/T: .147
60': 2.318
330: 6.065
1/8: 9.075
MPH: 82.60
1000: 11.660
1/4: 13.847
MPH: 103.40

To those trying to hook up I advise leaving the DSC on.

I do however intend to try a run with the DSC off after doing a burnout, but I am affraid to wear out my tires.
 
DSC off would end up being better for the straight track. and you should spin the tires before you make your run anyway so you can lay down a nice strip of hot rubber and heat up your tires to make them extra sticky.

DSC would end up seeing skid and compensating for it by applying the brake or reducing boost or whatever. this isn't gonna help you with your 1/4 mile time. best bet would be to find the sweet spot(s) to put your foot over the accelerator that's juuuuuuust on the brink of skidding.

or you could penny out the dough for some slicks
 
put 245x40x18 Dunlop Direza Star on the front and 235 on rear...nooo torque steer...even if taking off from a dead stop making a left turn at an intersection. Front wheel drive never felt like this. SCARRY HANDLING
 
PS added a Hotchkis rear anti-sway bar. if you are interested in buying my old Cobb Tuning rear bar it will be on ebay by next week. the hotchkis is much more rigid on its max setting but the ride suffers greatly.
 
What upgrades would you recommend besides tires and mounts for getting better traction in 1st and 2nd gear?

traction bars, etd.

trz delrin motor mount > all other mounts for traction.

my first gear chirps barely but 2nd gear in this car when driven right has no traction. (unless ur using slicks or something)

driver mod is your best friend, learn to play with the throttle and know your tires breaking points as far as traction so u can adjust as needed.
 
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