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Mazda Protege 5 for sale with 115,000k should i buy???
- Thread starter ORTOX06
- Start date
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
I'm interested in purchasing a protege5 2002. Has 115,000 miles, its stick, and theyre asking 5,000. Its at some shady dealer, but I was wondering. You guys that have driven your proteges to this extent, is 115,000 miles too many???
Dude I dont know if tihs will give you peice of mind but my car has over 160k on it and the stock wp was still good (replaced it along with timing belt). The only issue the previous owner and myself have had (2nd owner) is that the stock t-stat gave out at 159.9k.
Edit:
I take that back my coil pack or wires went bad around 145k ( I replaced both as a tune up)
Dude I dont know if tihs will give you peice of mind but my car has over 160k on it and the stock wp was still good (replaced it along with timing belt). The only issue the previous owner and myself have had (2nd owner) is that the stock t-stat gave out at 159.9k.
Edit:
I take that back my coil pack or wires went bad around 145k ( I replaced both as a tune up)
I don't mean to sound completely ignorant, but I have no clue as to what a wp is referring to.
Also, here's a link to the car on autotrader.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...ors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=4
- :
- 2003 Yellow Beast
I don't mean to sound completely ignorant, but I have no clue as to what a wp is referring to.
Also, here's a link to the car on autotrader.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...ors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=4
Water Pump
I'd have it inspected at an independant mechanic.
My brother found the same car from the same dealer posted on craigslist for 4500. Better believe I printed the ad. What do you guys think I should offer? My brother checked it out and said it ran strong and everything was A1 besides a couple usual rust spots, on the inner part of the body fortunately. He also mentioned that it sounded a little loud but he doesn't know the usual noise output of the p5, so Im not sure exactly what he meant. He said I should offer $4100, but let me get your opinions and ideas on the noise factor. The dealer is giving me a 3 month 4500 mile powertrain warranty, so I honestly am planning on buying this tomorrow so responses would be definitely welcome.
if you can get it for under 4500$,what do you loose anyways?its a 2002 p5,all electric,sport looking car,decent mileage,even if you have some little things to fix,its worth it,for that car,you can even get a perfect running engine for around 500-800$,so go get it...
oh and if you want to be safe,get yourself an obdII reader,take the car for a ride,then scan it,you ll see if there are any codes...the idle should be stable around 750-900 rpm when the engine is warm,if it try to stall,well,then tell the guy to fix the problem if he wants to sell...you can always negociate for a car,tell him to get the car to pass the state inspection,then you ll be sure that you bought a decent car!
for me,4500$ its worth it!
Good luck
oh and if you want to be safe,get yourself an obdII reader,take the car for a ride,then scan it,you ll see if there are any codes...the idle should be stable around 750-900 rpm when the engine is warm,if it try to stall,well,then tell the guy to fix the problem if he wants to sell...you can always negociate for a car,tell him to get the car to pass the state inspection,then you ll be sure that you bought a decent car!
for me,4500$ its worth it!
Good luck
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
KBB values this car much higher than the asking price...which means it's either a great deal or something's up. I would give it a thorough once over, maybe take it to a mechanic...and on a car with that many miles, a carfax is a must. Make sure the title is clean and not a salvage. I hope it all works out!
I love when dealers say: "won't last long"
I hear "the car won't last long" = "the car is going to fall apart" (hah)
About the car, if everything checks out, and you can get it for ~ $4500, sounds like a great deal to me. Good luck.
I hear "the car won't last long" = "the car is going to fall apart" (hah)
About the car, if everything checks out, and you can get it for ~ $4500, sounds like a great deal to me. Good luck.
- :
- 02' Protege ES
Carfax is only good if people report the accidents.
I hate to be the stain on a white sheet but...I went through the same thing when I bought mine...I should've had it checked by a mechanic...and done more research. Here's a few things to look for...
Find out if the timing belt/waterpump have been changed.
Check to make sure all the accessory belts are in good condition.
Check for excessive shaking of the engine upon take-off; that could mean the faulty stock flywheel/clutch combo is still in the car. (
Check the motor-mounts they are p'os on these cars (relatively cheap replacement but an expense none-the-less.)
Check the brakes, specifically the calipers.
While driving, make sure you don't get grinding when going into second or third. Another expense down the road...Syncros for these two gears in the 2002's is bad on manual transmission vehicles.
Check that all the lights on the dash and radio work. Unless you are going to take off the stock head-unit. The lights on my head unit's screen display are burnt out and I haven't been able to replace/fix them yet. (more than just burnt-out bulbs)
Check the trunk/hatch - on the rearmost right and left, under the carpet and in jack cubby. I found leaks on both sides and water/water damage in both compartments.
Check VERY closely for rust on the hatch behind/near the badges, on the window frames and the wheel wells.
I could get into more but this is the basic stuff...
I love my P5 dearly, don't get me wrong but, coming from problem-free, regarded by most as a POS (Neon) to what Mazda advertises as a Zoom-Zoom, sporty car I expected more car and less problems. Most of these issues are extensively documented by owners and recognized by MAZDA USA as problems.
I wish that I had done more research and that I had been warned about these things prior to purchasing the car. I've had it for almost two years and so far, other than regular maintenance, I've HAD to put in money to replace motor-mounts and clutch/flywheel, fix the leaks, fix the rust on the hatch, window frames and fender wells, as I mentioned my radio display is kaput and I've recently found out I'll have to replace one of the brake calipers as it is binding...
Its up to you and please, just consider this food for thought to help you make a more informed decision.
You might be looking at one of the many P5's not affected by any of the above mentioned issues, or if you're looking at building up your car and replacing most of the stuff I just mentioned anyway, it won't really matter to you.
Good luck!
Juan
Find out if the timing belt/waterpump have been changed.
Check to make sure all the accessory belts are in good condition.
Check for excessive shaking of the engine upon take-off; that could mean the faulty stock flywheel/clutch combo is still in the car. (
Check the motor-mounts they are p'os on these cars (relatively cheap replacement but an expense none-the-less.)
Check the brakes, specifically the calipers.
While driving, make sure you don't get grinding when going into second or third. Another expense down the road...Syncros for these two gears in the 2002's is bad on manual transmission vehicles.
Check that all the lights on the dash and radio work. Unless you are going to take off the stock head-unit. The lights on my head unit's screen display are burnt out and I haven't been able to replace/fix them yet. (more than just burnt-out bulbs)
Check the trunk/hatch - on the rearmost right and left, under the carpet and in jack cubby. I found leaks on both sides and water/water damage in both compartments.
Check VERY closely for rust on the hatch behind/near the badges, on the window frames and the wheel wells.
I could get into more but this is the basic stuff...
I love my P5 dearly, don't get me wrong but, coming from problem-free, regarded by most as a POS (Neon) to what Mazda advertises as a Zoom-Zoom, sporty car I expected more car and less problems. Most of these issues are extensively documented by owners and recognized by MAZDA USA as problems.
I wish that I had done more research and that I had been warned about these things prior to purchasing the car. I've had it for almost two years and so far, other than regular maintenance, I've HAD to put in money to replace motor-mounts and clutch/flywheel, fix the leaks, fix the rust on the hatch, window frames and fender wells, as I mentioned my radio display is kaput and I've recently found out I'll have to replace one of the brake calipers as it is binding...
Its up to you and please, just consider this food for thought to help you make a more informed decision.
You might be looking at one of the many P5's not affected by any of the above mentioned issues, or if you're looking at building up your car and replacing most of the stuff I just mentioned anyway, it won't really matter to you.
Good luck!
Juan
Last edited:
P5inder, i really appreciate the post. I checked out the car today and yes, it does have the window frame rust and a small, like tiny, spot of rust on the underside of the hatch.
Monday I will be going to check it out again with a very, to say the least, formidable mechanic, I'm talking skinhead with tattoos, the whole shebang, who used to do car repairs from my brother and mom so he's an acquaintance of the family. I'm going to wait and see what he has to say about the car. Supposedly this dealer put on a bunch of new parts that needed to be replaced. Unforunately I forget everything, but it did not include the waterpump or timing belt.
Definitely no shaking on take off and supposedly he replaced the brakes...
The thing is I'm moving on from my 1996 volvo 850 turbo, which needs some work, unfortunately. I'm getting 15 mpg tops and it needs another o2 sensor replaced, one of which was already done about 2 months ago......... stupid mechanics ripped me off so bad oh my god........ and even if i do all the work that needs to be done, ill still be getting 20 mpg tops. Thats why i need to move on and in the cleveland area, this is honestly the newest, an 02 for goodness sake, gas saver im going to find for this price, not to mention im sure itll be a blast to drive and work on.
So, after monday ill post and let you know what happened.
Thanks for all the support.
Monday I will be going to check it out again with a very, to say the least, formidable mechanic, I'm talking skinhead with tattoos, the whole shebang, who used to do car repairs from my brother and mom so he's an acquaintance of the family. I'm going to wait and see what he has to say about the car. Supposedly this dealer put on a bunch of new parts that needed to be replaced. Unforunately I forget everything, but it did not include the waterpump or timing belt.
Definitely no shaking on take off and supposedly he replaced the brakes...
The thing is I'm moving on from my 1996 volvo 850 turbo, which needs some work, unfortunately. I'm getting 15 mpg tops and it needs another o2 sensor replaced, one of which was already done about 2 months ago......... stupid mechanics ripped me off so bad oh my god........ and even if i do all the work that needs to be done, ill still be getting 20 mpg tops. Thats why i need to move on and in the cleveland area, this is honestly the newest, an 02 for goodness sake, gas saver im going to find for this price, not to mention im sure itll be a blast to drive and work on.
So, after monday ill post and let you know what happened.
Thanks for all the support.
Yup, if the mechanic clears it, then it seems ok for $4500.
But personally I wouldn't trust it. Dealers don't sell low for no reason. We just don't know what the reason is. Like any business they will do whatever they can to maximize profit and minimize costs.
But personally I wouldn't trust it. Dealers don't sell low for no reason. We just don't know what the reason is. Like any business they will do whatever they can to maximize profit and minimize costs.
P5inder, i really appreciate the post. I checked out the car today and yes, it does have the window frame rust and a small, like tiny, spot of rust on the underside of the hatch.
Monday I will be going to check it out again with a very, to say the least, formidable mechanic, I'm talking skinhead with tattoos, the whole shebang, who used to do car repairs from my brother and mom so he's an acquaintance of the family. I'm going to wait and see what he has to say about the car. Supposedly this dealer put on a bunch of new parts that needed to be replaced. Unforunately I forget everything, but it did not include the waterpump or timing belt.
Definitely no shaking on take off and supposedly he replaced the brakes...
The thing is I'm moving on from my 1996 volvo 850 turbo, which needs some work, unfortunately. I'm getting 15 mpg tops and it needs another o2 sensor replaced, one of which was already done about 2 months ago......... stupid mechanics ripped me off so bad oh my god........ and even if i do all the work that needs to be done, ill still be getting 20 mpg tops. Thats why i need to move on and in the cleveland area, this is honestly the newest, an 02 for goodness sake, gas saver im going to find for this price, not to mention im sure itll be a blast to drive and work on.
So, after monday ill post and let you know what happened.
Thanks for all the support.
Hey ORTOX06,
No problem...seems like you really need to make the move to a newer car. So make the move to a ride you won't spend money repairing, just improving. I hope everything works out for you...and like clicknext stated, dealers rarely like to lose $$ on anything so its a good think you're getting it checked by a professional.
BTW, you're right...when its all working right, it is a blast to drive.
Here's really hoping it works out for ya. (drinks)
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