MAF relocated

my intake is setup a little differently than that, the maf sensor is located right after the intake cone, is that the same how everyone has or is the setup on the car from the link totally different
 
stock? or what are u asking? that pic looks almost like the stock intake piping... with a cone filter. plz clarify your ? and i will check back
 
wow, i didnt have to extend any wires for my maf. if you cut back the covering on the wires, you can get the plug over where you need it.
 
yeah is the setup from the car in the picture setup similiar or was some piping routed differently, i know these seem like dumb questions but ive never dealt with these motors before
 
Just relocated my MAF

I just relocated my MAF today, let me tell you something, its great!!! (so far).
But I havent turn on my boost controller yet, so do know what kind of difference would it do at 10psi. But so far I can say, the car runs smooth... Before I always get WOT at 3500rpm.... after relocated, it didnt happen again(so far). I will post some picture soon.

This is how much I spend:
3 coupers and clamps $21.00
have a muffler shop cut the pipe(4 cuts) $5.00
total cost $26+your time
have your MSP runs better= priceless
 
Don't forget the car will run richer with the MAF there.

Reset the ECU if you notice that it's running very rich.
 
Brian MP5T said:
Don't forget the car will run richer with the MAF there.

Reset the ECU if you notice that it's running very rich.
Click to expand...

So won't that waste more gas, running rich? If you reset the battery then the assumption would be it fixes it correcT??
 
No, The MAF was made to regester ambient air pressure. It measures the Mass (Weight) of the air. If there is more pressure going through it under boost, there will be more Atoms of "Everything" even Oxygen. The ECU will learn this curve and adjust because the car will have a tendency to run with an inadequate ammount of fuel under boost.

Basically, it costs a bit more, who cares. What's another $2.00 a week when you think that the car is basically $27,000.. ???
 
I did a few 10psi run today, its doing pretty good. One time pipe came loss, but I was able to get home because the MAF was still getting reading.
Over all, I can say the car feels pretty good. I am still adjusting it, will post picture when I am done.
 
byohndspeed said:
wow, i didnt have to extend any wires for my maf. if you cut back the covering on the wires, you can get the plug over where you need it.
Click to expand...

I had to extend mine. The harness was a little tight for comfort... That motor doesn't move around a lot unless you are using stiffer mounts.
 
Just to be sure I want somebody to confirm that:

Turbo outlet: 2"
SMIC inlet: 2"
SMIC outlet: 2"
MAF: 2.75"
TB: 2.75"

are these mesures right?
 
Brian MP5T said:
No, The MAF was made to regester ambient air pressure. It measures the Mass (Weight) of the air. If there is more pressure going through it under boost, there will be more Atoms of "Everything" even Oxygen. The ECU will learn this curve and adjust because the car will have a tendency to run with an inadequate ammount of fuel under boost.

Basically, it costs a bit more, who cares. What's another $2.00 a week when you think that the car is basically $27,000.. ???
Click to expand...

I don't know you but you could quite possibly possess wisdom that no one on here can ever hope to achieve... or you could be wrong LOL!!!!

I respect your opinion but...

We may have to agree to disagree on this one but I believe that whatever comes out of the turbo had to come in and I also believe that matter can't be created so... there wouldn't be more atoms after the turbo.

And I ran this setup after I immediately reset the ECU for about 15,000 miles without the ECU ever learning around this. One thing you guys need to remember when it comes to the ECU learn-around ideal is that the ECU isn't as smart as some of us give it credit for.

In order for the ECU to learn anything, the conditions have to be consistant for long periods of time. It's kind of like training a dog... it poops on the floor, you rub its nose in it and kick it outside with a size 12. But if you don't rub its nose in it EVERYTIME it s****, then it doesn't learn.

In theory, it honestly shouldn't matter where you put the MAF. If you can completely seal your induction system the car should run the same. The reason the MAF is working better in some cars is because people are experiencing boost leaks from the stock clamps or their silicone couplings. Making your connections air tight is harder than you think.

Another reason for moving the MAF is to negate the stalling effects of an atomspheric BOV.
 
Last edited:
SpeedBeaver said:
Just to be sure I want somebody to confirm that:

Turbo outlet: 2"
SMIC inlet: 2"
SMIC outlet: 2"
MAF: 2.75"
TB: 2.75"

are these mesures right?
Click to expand...

I can confirm without a doubt the first 4. But I think the TB is 2.5 but, someone else needs to jump in on this one.
 
genius said:
I don't know you but you could quite possibly possess wisdom that no one on here can ever hope to achieve... or you could be wrong LOL!!!!

I respect your opinion but...
Click to expand...

The BOV is the only reason to move the MAF.

Ok, Lets make thins really simple.

The MAF measures the Flow passing throung it's calibrated opening to make a calculation of how much air is passing through.

If it's calibrated to work at ambient pressure and you decide to run twice the pressure (15psi) through it, it will only see some of the increase as velocity will go up as well, however their molecules are also packed tighter than ambient, ergo, many will not be metered under load. This will lean out the ECU. The O2 will regester Lean and compenste. Learning this "loop" is what I fear.
 
So reading from this and reading Brian MP5T's last post it seems like it only wourth it to do this if the car stalls because of the BOV. Not my question is from that set-up i am looking at my car will stall unless i either
1) get a BPV so it doesn't
2)relocate MAF

If I relocate the MAF where does the air Temp sensor go? I just don't like the idea of it dangling around. Plus with this stated
"If it's calibrated to work at ambient pressure and you decide to run twice the pressure (15psi) through it, it will only see some of the increase as velocity will go up as well, however their molecules are also packed tighter than ambient, ergo, many will not be metered under load. This will lean out the ECU. The O2 will regester Lean and compenste. Learning this "loop" is what I fear."

Makes me think twice of doing this or not. Either spend a little or 100 for a BPV or relocate MAF, plus what if the MAF get "destroyed", where can you get them and how much do these things cost?
 
i have no i dea about the pricing but i do know that there are some ppl who have run this setup (maf on cold pipe) with open vent fine for over a year. so far there is no proof of this change hurting the car. also, if you have ems, then it really wouldn't matter because you would be controlling the afr yourself. so... in my opinion i would do it. i am going to when i get my harpipes (if i get my hardpipes). that;s just my .02
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
MAF Relocation
Replies
9
Views
3K
Preferio
P
P
Idle issue and lag after 3800 rpm
Replies
3
Views
2K
protegejustin19
P
C
2002 Protege5 Rough Idle, No Power/Acceleration
Replies
9
Views
2K
Cosmas
C

Latest posts

Back