ill take pics tonight i need my girlfriends camera haha, yeah it took about a half hour to do, i had it done at TLC performance by a friend. If anyone in the area is interested like yellowspeed shoot me a pm and ill get some shop time for you if you want. Anyone can do it really though.
MAF relocated
- Thread starter sniper9
- Start date
bump for those pics. looks like ill be doing this in the next few days.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105437
This has been discussed at length. Go to this thread, there you will find pics of my setup as well as a few others.
Hope this helps!
This has been discussed at length. Go to this thread, there you will find pics of my setup as well as a few others.
Hope this helps!
I call bulls***! cuz i did it today with that exact sawsall on my hiboost kit. my mom was passing by and i asked her to hold the pipe down so it didn't fly everywhere. i told her a guy on here said it would only take 2.6 seconds. about 20 seconds of my mom's arms about to fall off she goes "i think that guy was full of s***".Brian MP5T said:2.6 Seconds
yeah for some reason no one here in houston has done it yet. when my car was all f*ed up at a meet with 10 mazdaspeed guys hangin around it for several hours none of us could figure out how to make it stop stalling. i guess the others will be doing the same thing pretty soon.03MSP said:
arlsmazdaspeed
Member
I just got my fittings in the mail to relocate the maf today. It took me about 15 min. tops to install and tighten everything up. Considering my mods i have already, during the test drive the car felt like it ran smoother throughout the powerband, but it could be in my head.... But it seems to drive better, even though it still fuel cuts when i'm in high boost (10 psi.) . But overall i'm happy with the results it seemed to have on my car.
Hey when you relocate the maf with injen piping isnt their a temp sensor or something of that nature? Where should that be relocated since it is on the pipe leading to filter but after the MAF. Does this travel along with the MAF when it is relocated or does it remain between the turbo and filter. Speaking of filters, what would be the best replacement for our air filters? My intake filter is dirty as hell even after i wash it.
UnNaturalinc
Formerly"HorsepowerFreak"
- :
- '03.5 MSP, '87 RX-7 TII, '80 Chevy Luv, '05 Honda CRF230
I wish there was just a list of information on relocating the MAF. No questions, no ideas, no bad info... Just a list of solid facts of why and why not to do it on this specific vehicle.
HorsepowerFreak said:
Well... I can probably do that... I can't really come up with a point paper on it or anything like that but here is the facts.
You MAF is located at the beginning of the chain of events. And beleive me if you follow the intake tract, there are quite a few joints and couplings before it gets to the throttle body. If anything in the chain goes arye, the intended fuel ratio would not be meant. Most of us have boost leaks. We just can't find them. If you lose air for any reason (via boost leak under a coupling or an atomospheric BOV), the ECU will not know that the air is lost. As a result, when the ECU checks the MAF at the beginning of the chain it has to assume that the air the MAF reported will make it to the engine. If the ECU wants a 11:1 ratio it mathematically determines how much of a "squirt" the injectors have to push. If the air is lost along the way, the ratio can drop to say a 10:1 which is rich. When you car hits a rich surge, you will lose power during that instance. If the ratio falls below 9.1, the car will stall due to too much gas and not enough oxygen. People have described this as hesitation.
By moving the MAF to just before the TB, you negate the effects of boost leaks and stalling effects of BOV's. If you have a leak of any kind it won't matter because all the MAF will see is the amount of air that passes it which convientently is right next to the engine so there can't be any air lost unless you forgot to tighten your last set of clamps. If you lose air due to boost leak before the MAF, your boost may fall, but the ratio would still be maintained by the ECU's origianl intent (whatever that is).
Now as a side note, yes there is a thing called "long term fuel trim". The ECU checks the O2 sensor to determine if the ratio is equal to the original intent. If over a long period of time it is not, then the ECU will add a "correction factor" to the injectors and try to stablize it. BUT if you only lose your fuel ratio for short bursts, the ECU will not make corrections because it is not long enough and frequent enough to warrent its attenion.
When you reset the ECU these fuel trim ajustments are lost and it defaults to the factory. THat is why it is important that any time you make mods to your car, you reset the ECU so it doesn't under compensate based on its long term calculations.
The only bad thing about this is that the A/F ratio is hit square on the nose. FOr most of us, that is what we want! BUT!, If you make mods to you car assuming that the car is "pig rich" because you saw a bunch of threads on here stating that the factory ECU is programmed that way, then when you move your MAF it could run leaner. A perfect example of these mods would be the FPR and the FCD. Those of you that don't know what these acronyms are, should not worry about it. If you do then you know who I am talking to
Finally, the MAF was never designed to run on the pressure side of the turbo. It could break because of this. It just hasn't happened to any one yet. There are two schools of thought on this one. One school I just mentioned, the other school says that that is bull s*** because what comes out of the turbo had to come into the turbo in the same direction. THerefore, the MAF is subjected to the same torture no matter where you stick it.
I really hope this helps to clear things up and as always, you can PM me or continue to discuss this on here.
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UnNaturalinc
Formerly"HorsepowerFreak"
- :
- '03.5 MSP, '87 RX-7 TII, '80 Chevy Luv, '05 Honda CRF230
That's awesome. :thumbs-up:
also, if you happen to be out driving and blow a pipe off(with the maf relocated) you can still limp the car home for its repairs.
byohndspeed said:
VERY TRUE!!!! I forgot to mention that thanks! It has already happened to me once. I was driving with a heavy foot in third and all of a sudden I it felt like I hit a brick wall.
My first thought was fuel cut. My second thought was WTF, it's warm out, my FCD should have worked! My third thought was damn that Joe P! Then I hit the throttle again and the car drove like an NA. It still drove fine just absolutely no boost with a massive whine. I pulled over and my 10th thought was correct, I blew a pipe off the IC. The thoughts between 4 and 9 were kinda hazy... mostly filled with incoherent cussing and frequent use of the **** word.
Now before I moved the MAF I had blown a pipe once before with my home brew hardpipes. That really sucked. The car did the brick wall thing, then stalled and would not restart even in gear going 75. When it came to a stop, it would start for like 2 seconds then stall. Fortunatley, as any amatuer mechanic does, I carry a fully compliment of tools in the trunk to include a roll of duct tape and extra worm clamps. That day I just used duct tape and drove gently until I had to time to repair it.
Now if you are one of those nay sayers who keeps the MAF in the stock position, does not carry tools and then blows a pipe, one thing you can try is to disconnect the MAF from the harness. The car should try to run after a few attempts. But it will be in limp mode with virtually no power, PIG RICH, and you will get a CEL. The RPM's won't go above 3000 and if you try the car will stall. This will atleast get you home or to one of us
Point being, sometimes no MAF signal at all is better than a faulty one.
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- :
- 2009 Escape XLT, 2010 CX7 sport
i was worried about putting my stock maf sensor under pressure so a guy i work with took his stock maf sensor off his LS1 powered ws6 and wired it in to my harness and it runs like a dream its alot better then the stock one and it eliminated the hesitation
Brian MP5T said:2.6 Seconds
FUK THE SAWZALL!!!!!!!!!!
it's ll about a chop saw,or if you want portable...............
I have had mine like this for a LONG time,people just to aurgue with me so much over it,saying how bad it was.
heard nothing but good so far.
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