PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Oh, der, I remember that now. I think I've worked on your suspension more than my own, hah.
Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
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Would u need the AWR 22mm, with the added weight of the v6 up front. You think that would balance out the stiffer bar on its own, and then say something like clunk fix brackets in the rear to stiffen the RB swaybar and it should be pretty balanced.
The added weight (above roll center) would only make the car want to roll more up front. How much? Don't know. I'm sure you can try to find how much increased weight is over the roll center or even if it is with math. OR, just trial and error at HSDEs. Not sure what clunk fix's are, or how that can increase stiffness, but if they can it would need to increase the spring rate transfer by quite a bit. I actually was offered a msp rear sway bar, and thought it was wimpy looking compared to the AWR (don't know actual #s just saw it was much smaller in diameter). Also the AWR has infinite adjustment (via the link clamp traveling along the sway bar ends). That alone has already paid for its self as I become more and more comfortable with the car being a bit loose (better polar moment(the more you can keep a FWD car's steering wheel straight the faster you will go)). Hope this helps. I'm learning just like you guys. That's why I cam back here. To Lewis's thread. For actual good stuff.
MSP RB is a 20mm bar, the clunk fix brackets throw the bushings out towards the wheel reducing the flex in the bar and moves it into more rotational like it should and also it reduces wear on the bushings i.e reducing the occurrence of clunking in the rear due to worn swaybar bushings known to plague the RB swaybar. While, I know everything loves AWR, I can say i am not impressed with them. Now my only experience are with their endlinks and the quality of the links is far below what they should be. Now the swaybar might be different and I believe the AWR bar is tubular while the RB is solid so the AWR does have a strength advantage right there. SO, idk I guess it would be a trial and error deal and a driver preference.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123805346-GB-Clunk-Fix-Brackets/page20
cool! Still would want some adjustability for diff tires, tracks, gas level you would be running with, stuff like that. But don't forget you can also up your rate of springs in the rear to do the same.
cool! Still would want some adjustability for diff tires, tracks, gas level you would be running with, stuff like that. But don't forget you can also up your rate of springs in the rear to do the same.
The one benefit of the AWR is that you can move the mounting points on the bar and be able to adjust it a little bit. That being said, with the mounting points at the stiffest position, it is actually stiffer than the Progress 22mm...
That clunk fix bracket is for the Racing Beat rear sway only but I'm curious as to why? Simply because of the different diameters? Wouldn't one just be able to open up the bushings a bit for the larger bar and call it a day?
And I hope these endlinks make it into production... I've heard a lot of bad things about the AWR endlinks.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123796462-GI-AAC-Protege-Adjustable-SwayBar-Endlinks
And I hope these endlinks make it into production... I've heard a lot of bad things about the AWR endlinks.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123796462-GI-AAC-Protege-Adjustable-SwayBar-Endlinks
Early AWR links were loud. The revised ones aren't. But yeah, those are pretty nice too.
Well that would be fine to do if all the bars had the same bends. All the bars available are bent to meet the same stock bushing location, but beyond those points(out to where the clunk fix brackets use to hold the bar) is bent differently so no other bar lines up correctly.
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PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Those AAC endlinks look so baller. I mean not quite as baller as mine from RB, but close! 
Ahh, that's right, Justin. Thanks for pointing that out. I don't mind the clunk but I know it drives some people batty. But I've got to get new endlinks since they are both too long for my setup. The fronts are within a mm or two of touching the LCA and the rear makes the RSB actually rest on the suspension.
Wes, are your RB endlinks universal? (I guess I could just google that s***.)
Wes, are your RB endlinks universal? (I guess I could just google that s***.)
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
No, I got the ones for an FC, which are about half as long as the ones the funky proteges need.
MAN. Thanks for this thread.
I have been SO lazy, but thanks to this thread..... today I got my 66LBS weight loss done (and some more!). And I didn't have to loose any glass (or dash). Now I am dieing for my for my Ksports to show up. Can't wait to be in front of all the miatas in my club, and in some real competition.
I have been SO lazy, but thanks to this thread..... today I got my 66LBS weight loss done (and some more!). And I didn't have to loose any glass (or dash). Now I am dieing for my for my Ksports to show up. Can't wait to be in front of all the miatas in my club, and in some real competition.
Fabio, you have the 19mm AWR sway bar.
And here are your bushings.
iracemine, I'm not sure why you are thanking this thread. But I thank all of YOU guys for contributing. This thread is great for me keeping track of what I've done to my P5.
And here are your bushings.
iracemine, I'm not sure why you are thanking this thread. But I thank all of YOU guys for contributing. This thread is great for me keeping track of what I've done to my P5.
Well I found a cat parting out his 93 Probe GT and is going to hook me up with his harness for $60+shipping (since I sold mine to Wes for $40, doh! haha) and then i have the option for the MegaSquirt plug-n-play ECU (~$760) since they are only making them for the OBD1 KL's. OR, like Phen and I were just discussing in the garage, pulling out all the silly wiring harnesses and using my existing OBD2 KL harness and P5 harness and doing what Jon did and basically rewire the engine bay and build my own MegaSquirt for around $650.
Ideally, it would be rad to have just one harness to keep everything clean in the engine bay but that requires a lot of wiring, which I hate. Or I can take the easier route and pull the milly harness for the PGT harness, plug in the MS, get it tuned and call it a day. Hmmm...
My new position in the office allows me to do a lot of research at my desk. Muhaha.
Ideally, it would be rad to have just one harness to keep everything clean in the engine bay but that requires a lot of wiring, which I hate. Or I can take the easier route and pull the milly harness for the PGT harness, plug in the MS, get it tuned and call it a day. Hmmm...
My new position in the office allows me to do a lot of research at my desk. Muhaha.
jonridinhi
Member
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- 2001 MP3/2010 MX5/1996 MILLINIA (donor)
But if you wire it yourself then you can eliminate all the BS and tuck it to make it cleaner.....
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
That seems like a small price to pay for not getting the biggest headache ever from all of the wiring.
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