jet power-flo MAF sensor mzr 2.0

[3luv]

has anyone else tried out this jet power-flo MAF sensor ($128 shipped)? i just got mine today because my stock MAF ($89 autozone) wouldn't accept the amount of air being sucked in my intake, therefore causing my car to run bad, sometimes cut out and blow white smoke. and, worst of all, the annoyance of my forever on and off CEL. so i have a few mods that i've been having problems getting tuned right. and after i bolted this new MAF in place, reset my ECU, and took a ride, SO much better, i have alot more torque threw 1-3rd, and a little more power in 4th an 5th, better response threwout and no more check engine light. the rattle from my intake isn't as loud, i can now hear my car sucking air instead of the high pitch whistling the intake used to make. and my air/fuel guage went from reading between rich and really rich, to optimal, closer to lean than rich. as far as incoming/outgoing air, i have a 3 inch CAI, 60mm TB and drop in cams w/valve springs exhausted threw OBX 2.5inch headers back. i think it's a great buy for anyone else experiencing CEL nightmares from your intake. totally makes a differance!

 

[adumbrille]

so what were your before and after fuel trims? If you ran a larger TB, intake and cams on a stock tune, I could see that exceeding the +20% LTFT that the computer is capable of adding to the MAF reading.

 

[3luv]

so what were your before and after fuel trims? If you ran a larger TB, intake and cams on a stock tune, I could see that exceeding the +20% LTFT that the computer is capable of adding to the MAF reading.

my car is untuned and runs kinda bad "most of the time" and tends to idle rough. i'm not really sure what the before and after feul trim is. or really understand some of that... this is my first "computerized everything" engine i've messed with, and the jet powerflo was basically a last resort to get my CEL to go out, (before i put a brick on the peddle and let her blow) but came with perks such as a little power gain and considerable torque.... or just helped everything work together better. and i do not know what LTFT is. ... overall it just helped alot but not like a full tune which is happening this winter. all in all, the car is still shady as hell. has it's good days and bad. basically i just bought and bolted everything together hoping the ECU would do the rest and this is my daily driver mess around with when i get bored cuz my other car is fast and stored in another state and i can't drive cuz it's still in ex ogirls name and may end up hers sadly. any help on moding the mzr is always appreciated considering i don't really know what the heck i'm doing to it, and don't fully understand ECU and injection tuning. i miss the little screws on carbs that you can do alot with.

 

[Magus]

3luv,
With a Cold Air Intake and Catback exhaust your car should run fine without issues. Think of most modern cars like your old car but without the ability to turn screws to tune it. You might not have known enough, but turning though screws makes adjustments to the amount of fuel you are mixing with air. You are effectively messing with the fuel trims or how much fuel it is adding to the air it sucks in. The new cars have two different modes of operating. Open loop is when your wide open on the throttle and the computer will actively use the sensors and adjust accordingly. The problem you will experience is closed loop, which is everywhere but open throttle. It uses the sensors and looks at a table to determine how much fuel and spark timing it is going to use. The manufacturers do this to ensure good clean and reliable operation of the engine. This sounds like a waste of a good computer, but there are too many variables like temperature and altitude that would require a really powerful ("expensive") computer vs a table. The manufacturers leave a decent margin of adjust ability and that is +/-20% on what the stock MAF can read. So people install "piggyback" computers to help handle the extra fuel/air the stock ECU does not know how to handle. There are also options that you could also "flash" your ECU. What this does is update the table so the stock ECU can understand the new readings. This offering can be limited unfortunately.
When you put CAI or catback on, it will only change the air coming in so much and the exhaust going out. When you put in cams/larger throttle body/springs, they changes the amount of air and exhaust being let in/out of the engine and can freak the computer out. It might see leaner exhaust and try to fix it only it make it worse by adding too much fuel. It then tries to change it back because it is running to rich and the cycle starts over again. Just changing out the MAF should not be enough to fix your problems. Chances are, your MAF was either dirty or damaged. I would still recommend a tune as they will make sure your car runs good. Too much fuel (rich) make is run like crap and kills mpg and power. Too little (lean) fuel is dangerous and can cause your engine to blow up. This condition is called "knocking" because of the same it makes. The air/fuel combusted before the spark plug ignites and causes the piston down too soon. This cause the others to fight it since they are tied together by the crank shaft and cause the piston to either break at the weak part or go through the block.
I hope that helps a bit.

 

[3luv]

that actually does shine some light on a few things! thanks, and i did kinda figure i need a piggyback kit bt can't find one for the regular mazda 3, only the speed 3 which is why i set up to get my car tuned in february with part of my tax return. is there a piggyback system i can get for the 3i? and i've had a guy at the dynoshop tell me i need to get injectors to compensate for my valvework. what do you think on that matter? these ECUs got me all screwed up honestly. it's alot more complicated than i thought. or i'm just dumb i dont know lol. i mean the more i read up the more i'm understanding and relating to my prior experiences with carberated engines, but it's still slightly more complicated.... or is it just me ?