Is it my battery or something else? (2016.5 CX-5)

[SBMongoos]

Been wondering about this car battery of mine or if it's something I've been doing. Only seems to happen at the car wash. I'm careful not to hit the accessories so it doesn't draw too much on the battery while I'm waiting in line. But to tap just once for the radio I would think would be okay. As the cars move up I'll start the car and then shut it off again, tap the button just one to hear the radio. But I've had a couple of times where I go to leave the car wash when done (maybe been in line for a good 25 min) and the car won't start. I have my own lithium battery/cable setup to jump my own battery. Car will turn right over. But I've also noticing lately a slight pause (or like a gradual effort) at first when it goes to kick the engine over. I don't think this is normal. Normally I think you hit the button, with foot on brake of course, and it just turns right over. I'd have to check as I replaced it a couple of years ago with an Interstate battery at Costco.

I'm not seeing this issue occur other than doing this waiting in line at the car wash. So it seems relative to the time spent there and then hits me when I go to pull out of the automatic car wash bay. But this pause or slightly slow turn over seems odd to me rather than it just snapping right to it.

By the way, side bar here, at what level in the radiator overflow should the antifreeze be at. Mine seems low. Coming up on 80k.

 

[wlong01]

Do you do a lot of short runs as opposed to longer commutes.
I change mine every 36 months (give or take a few) regardless. Usually you get no warning when the
battery dies. I carry a lithium jumper in the back.
If it's been a few years I'd be looking at replacing soon given your previous problems.
You can have it load tested to see if there's a weak/bad cell. I'd take it back where you purchased it and let them load test it. It's probably still under warranty so if you replace it it will probably be pro-rated.

Overflow can be anywhere between L and H (or F, don't remember the exact lettering). I try to keep mine close to the top.

 

[ColtX-5]

.... As the cars move up I'll start the car and then shut it off again, .... and the car won't start.

By the way, side bar here, at what level in the radiator overflow should the antifreeze be at. Mine seems low. Coming up on 80k.

Why would you think draining the battery excessively and failing to recharge it enough to restart is anything but normal? Gasoline is not that expensive.

I have 2 Mazdas and have had one before these. All 3 would push out coolant when hot until the level was just below "L" and quit. I don't try to keep them "full" anymore.

 

[SBMongoos]

Why would you think draining the battery excessively and failing to recharge it enough to restart is anything but normal? Gasoline is not that expensive.

I have 2 Mazdas and have had one before these. All 3 would push out coolant when hot until the level was just below "L" and quit. I don't try to keep them "full" anymore.

Good point. Old habits die hard (referring to gas). As for the coolant...good to know. I don't check this things like I used to. I've been using a local dealership who check all fluids and battery and I've been going in about every 5-6k for oil service.

 

[SBMongoos]

Do you do a lot of short runs as opposed to longer commutes.
I change mine every 36 months (give or take a few) regardless. Usually you get no warning when the
battery dies. I carry a lithium jumper in the back.
If it's been a few years I'd be looking at replacing soon given your previous problems.
You can have it load tested to see if there's a weak/bad cell. I'd take it back where you purchased it and let them load test it. It's probably still under warranty so if you replace it it will probably be pro-rated.

Overflow can be anywhere between L and H (or F, don't remember the exact lettering). I try to keep mine close to the top.

Ya, mostly shorter drives with maybe a couple of six hour (one way) road trips per year. Have been doing this at the car wash for some time and just surprised to see it happening now. BUT, it maybe the longer lines that I typically avoid. Surprised to see this happen as I only tap the start button once and have assumed there is very little using power (listening to the radio). But when I use by lithium battery jumper it's good to go and always starts after that. I'm going on for a service this coming Friday.

 

[SBMongoos]

It didn't help that I went straight home from the car wash (close by) and parked the car in the garage. Been riding with others this weekend which is rare. Just went to the store and had to jump the battery both ways. Should have taken the car for a longer drive the other day after the wash. Something I'd normally do.

This is a 36 month Interstate Battery from Costco. I've had it 3.5 years. Hmm. I've had batteries in the past last much longer but...

 

[skid00skid0]

You need a new battery. There's no reason you couldn't start/stop the car, and play the radio many times.

THIS ASSUMES YOU GET THE BATT FULLY CHARGED beforehand. My 2016.5 doesn't do that. I have to put a charger on it every week or so. I drive very seldom, though.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Side note in case you're unaware.

If you hold the shifter button in while in park while turning the car off, the infotainment system will stay powered up for 15 mins or so.

 

[wlong01]

It didn't help that I went straight home from the car wash (close by) and parked the car in the garage. Been riding with others this weekend which is rare. Just went to the store and had to jump the battery both ways. Should have taken the car for a longer drive the other day after the wash. Something I'd normally do.

This is a 36 month Interstate Battery from Costco. I've had it 3.5 years. Hmm. I've had batteries in the past last much longer but...

Get a new battery.

 

[SBMongoos]

Took about a 45-minute drive to my buddy's house up in the mountains. I know it got cold overnight up here. But this morning at about 9:00 a.m. the car turned right over on its own.

I decided to put his optima 400 charger on the car. Initially it said it was at 75%. But only about 20 minutes later it said 100%. I walked away for a few minutes I admit. And it appears to be doing a conditioning. See photo. I did not disconnect the battery from the car. I wasn't really finding a solid evidence either way to do so.

 

[wlong01]

I've been told by multiple people in the know that you need to drive at least 7 miles to return a car battery to full charge. So if you're doing a lot of short hops the battery never fully charges.
I'm sure there's people that will chime in saying this is an "old wives tale" or something similar.

 

[SBMongoos]

I've been told by multiple people in the know that you need to drive at least 7 miles to return a car battery to full charge. So if you're doing a lot of short hops the battery never fully charges.
I'm sure there's people that will chime in saying this is an "old wives tale" or something similar.

Yeah that's interesting. I was reading on the interstate battery site that it says you need to have 7 to 8 hours of highway speed to fully charge but It won't get to 100%. It's recommended to properly get a hundred percent charge to use a battery charger.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I've been told by multiple people in the know that you need to drive at least 7 miles to return a car battery to full charge. So if you're doing a lot of short hops the battery never fully charges.
I'm sure there's people that will chime in saying this is an "old wives tale" or something similar.

7 miles to return a car battery to full charge? No way! At 60mph that's 7 minutes and there's NO WAY to fully charge a car battery in 7 minutes.

If the battery was already 99.9% charged, maybe then.

Whoever your in the know people are, they ain't,

 

[wlong01]

7 miles to return a car battery to full charge? No way! At 60mph that's 7 minutes and there's NO WAY to fully charge a car battery in 7 minutes.

If the battery was already 99.9% charged, maybe then.

Whoever your in the know people are, they ain't,

They weren't talking about 0% to 100%, just normal everyday driving to keep it at a level that will ensure a normal battery will have enough amps to start the vehicle.

 

[SBMongoos]

If I hadn't noted before my usual drives are short. One way to work is 5 miles. Granted I often leave at lunch, come back. Thinking having a battery charger/conditioner may be a good idea. Car and Driver has this as a recommended charger/conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). This considered to be good? Wondering if anyone has this. Very affordable. Looks to be only 1 amp though. They do have higher amp models in the brand at the link.

 

[SBMongoos]

Side note in case you're unaware.

If you hold the shifter button in while in park while turning the car off, the infotainment system will stay powered up for 15 mins or so.

So, doing this is using less resources vs hitting the start button once? Curious. Easy enough to do just wondering what the difference is.

 

[skid00skid0]

A note on charging. I maintain 10 batteries. I have found thru using a Solar BA9 tester, that I need to leave the charger on for a full day, to extend the number of days until the next charge needs to be done. I have Ctek Comfort Connect connectors on many of the batteries. These use three LED's to indicate battery voltage, so I can see at a glance which batteries have dropped voltage.

Those of you who use trolling motors know about 'surface charge'. A battery can come up to full charging voltage (~14.4 for Ctek chargers) quite quickly. But if you remove the charger, and check voltage the next day, it might drop to 12.4 or 12.5. My deep-cycle batteries will maintain 12.7 volts for a week after charging for 24 hours. Another note-my Ctek and Solar chargers reduce charging amps throughout the charge, these aren't dumb chargers that will boil out the acid, so I can leave them on for ever without damaging the batts. Cheaper trickle chargers don't reduce amperage, and will damage batteries if left on too long.

 

[SBMongoos]

A note on charging. I maintain 10 batteries. I have found thru using a Solar BA9 tester, that I need to leave the charger on for a full day, to extend the number of days until the next charge needs to be done. I have Ctek Comfort Connect connectors on many of the batteries. These use three LED's to indicate battery voltage, so I can see at a glance which batteries have dropped voltage.

Those of you who use trolling motors know about 'surface charge'. A battery can come up to full charging voltage (~14.4 for Ctek chargers) quite quickly. But if you remove the charger, and check voltage the next day, it might drop to 12.4 or 12.5. My deep-cycle batteries will maintain 12.7 volts for a week after charging for 24 hours. Another note-my Ctek and Solar chargers reduce charging amps throughout the charge, these aren't dumb chargers that will boil out the acid, so I can leave them on for ever without damaging the batts. Cheaper trickle chargers don't reduce amperage, and will damage batteries if left on too long.

Which of the Ctek Comfort Connect connectors do you have?

 

[Conrad 16.5]

They weren't talking about 0% to 100%, just normal everyday driving to keep it at a level that will ensure a normal battery will have enough amps to start the vehicle.

You can't make a blanket statement that says you can charge your vehicle battery in 7 miles then, right?

 

[Conrad 16.5]

So, doing this is using less resources vs hitting the start button once? Curious. Easy enough to do just wondering what the difference is.

I'm not saying that powering up the infotainment system in the way that I described is using more or less juice. I just don't know so I won't say one way or the other. Logically, my method should use less juice since it's not powering up the dash and the other systems.