Intermittent warning lights

:
2011 CX-7 i Sport
2015 CX-5, 2.5L.

TPMS, Traction and Engine lights came on. Car was shut off and restarted and the lights didn't come back on. Same thing happened the other day (a month after the first occurrence). And supposedly a lack of power above 40 mph (didn't get to drive the car, so I couldn't verify that for myself). But I did scan the entire system tonight and there were no stored, pending or active codes.

The battery was tested a few days ago and all cells tested good, with 75% overall capacity.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
A lot of these occurances can be traced to the battery. That's where I would look.

I'd also check into the power loss over 40. That's easy to do. See if it's still occurring.
 
“Looking at the battery” means to have it load tested. A simple voltage check or capacity test is pretty worthless. A load test is usually free at auto parts stores like Autozone. A 75% capacity may not be enough power with todays computer-heavy vehicles, actually that is pretty low but a true load test will tell the tale.
 
“Looking at the battery” means to have it load tested. A simple voltage check or capacity test is pretty worthless. A load test is usually free at auto parts stores like Autozone. A 75% capacity may not be enough power with todays computer-heavy vehicles, actually that is pretty low but a true load test will tell the tale.
The battery was tested at Advance Auto. I don't know what type of tester they have/use. It's my daughter's car, and I wasn't present when it was checked out. The battery was purchased just under 3 years ago.
 
Battery grounds can also be a problem.
I will have access to the car in about 2 weeks, as it's due for an oil change. I will look to see if there is anything obvious regarding the ground and go from there. Am also more than happy to just go ahead and replace the battery.
 
Check/clean battery terminals and change car battery. The battery is good enough to start car.........but requires better than 75% cell efficiency to support all the electronics. There's tons on the Mazda.
 
Unless the battery has dead cells (it doesn't, otherwise it wouldn't readily crank over), I doubt the Christmas tree dash was caused by the battery, with the engine RUNNING. I can believe dodgy or loose battery terminal CONNECTIONS or a battery to body ground or of that ilk is the culprit. What gets blamed as a bad battery are often rather bad connections TO the battery. Replacing the battery of course disturbs and improves the connections as a result, or because someone discovers and corrects corrosion or loose connections then.
 

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