Intermittent start (no crank)

As the title says, I have a 2014 cx5 in great shape. Never had any issues or modifications (outside replacing my horn a few years back). 88k on it and I’m the original owner. The battery might be 3 years old. I tried both mine and my wife’s key fobs.

Starting yesterday, I went to start my car and all the lights came on and radio with all the warning lights on but no crank. I never had a crank issue. No clicking or anything, it seemed like a computer error. That happened a couple more times since. I shut it off. Put the fob on top of the start button and it either starts fine or errors out and doesn’t start. Any ideas on a trouble shoot?
 

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I seem to recall something with the shifter lever having a switch that tells the car when it's in park going bad but can't remember exactly what happens when it does. But it's worth moving the lever back and forth a couple of times and seeing if it helps...
 
As mentioned above there is a switch connected to the shifter to ensure it doesn't start in gear but there is also the brake switch ( which has to be functioning properly) to ensure the brake is applied before the vehicle is allowed to start.
 
You can get the starter battery checked for free at an auto parts store - it will tell you the CCA and voltage.
 
I test first to find out if it actually needs to be replaced, and also the new one if it does.
 
OK, replaced the fob battery and the car battery but it's still intermittent. It starts every time but it takes a few tries. I also once had that gear shifter issue but I don't believe that's it (Unless there's a switch sensor involved). Any ideas on the next steps? Auto stores can test the starter and alternator?
 
Do you have a multimeter? If so, check DC voltage of the battery while the car is running. You should be 13.5-14v. If you do, the alternator is most likely fine.
If it takes a few tries then it could be the ignition switch or the starter. If you were able to measure input voltage at the starter while pressing the start button, that would eliminate the switch as the culprit, and would point to the starter. What you shouldn't do is replace everything that "could" be faulty without testing individual components. If you don't want to do this, yourself then most auto repair shops can do it. An auto-electric shop specializes in troubleshooting electrical and battery issues. I've found them to be really quick at pinpointing the source of trouble without swapping things out, willy nilly.
 
Do you have a multimeter? If so, check DC voltage of the battery while the car is running. You should be 13.5-14v. If you do, the alternator is most likely fine.
If it takes a few tries then it could be the ignition switch or the starter. If you were able to measure input voltage at the starter while pressing the start button, that would eliminate the switch as the culprit, and would point to the starter. What you shouldn't do is replace everything that "could" be faulty without testing individual components. If you don't want to do this, yourself then most auto repair shops can do it. An auto-electric shop specializes in troubleshooting electrical and battery issues. I've found them to be really quick at pinpointing the source of trouble without swapping things out, willy nilly.
This is awesome advice, thank you. I've never changed a starter or ignition switch on a Mazda. I've changed a bunch on jeeps with a ton of clearance. Is this better farming out?
 
I would probably check each in that order
Shifter switch although your pic shows P on the dash.
Start button (if fob batt is changed). Also do you have a second key to try?
Starter last. And most likely there is/are a relay somewhere which receives signal from the start button. Have to look if we can find a starting diagram somewhere.
 
I second the starter. If it lands on a bad brush in the starter you won't get any crank.

Some people have gone and banged on the starter with a rubber hammer when it happens in the
hope of advancing past the bad spot. It appears to work sometimes.

I'd get the starter tested.
 
I would probably check each in that order
Shifter switch although your pic shows P on the dash.
Start button (if fob batt is changed). Also do you have a second key to try?
Starter last. And most likely there is/are a relay somewhere which receives signal from the start button.
Thanks so much. Yes, before changing out my FOB battery I tried my wife's key to see it that was the issue and I had the same problem. I still changed the battery on it.
 
I second the starter. If it lands on a bad brush in the starter you won't get any crank.

Some people have gone and banged on the starter with a rubber hammer when it happens in the
hope of advancing past the bad spot. It appears to work sometimes.

I'd get the starter tested.
I've done this before on other cars as a temporary fix. Could this ever completely fix it?
 
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