Installshield's NA Build

thanks guys.

Tweety: Originally that is what i was going to tap, but i often use that for charging a phone and GPS system at the same time...which shouldn't of mattered, as i'm sure these gauges draw very little relatively...but since i had two completely free 12v lines just capped off in there, it was much simpler to just use that...probably not the best idea for someone using the factory stereo power leads, but my stereo recommended its own...and came with them...this also allowed me to get everything done in a matter of minutes, instead of pulling the entire HVAC system and bezel out just to get into the cig lighter area...

BR: The oil pressure sensor mounts into the plate adapter i bought, which sandwiches between the oil filter and block. So i didn't need to use the stock sensor location in any way at all...the temp sensor mounts into the same plate, so i was able to install that stuff with sealant on a bench, then mount it on the car and attach the sensor/ground wires...

I'm also starting to second guess myself about that clock. I reset it this morning when i discovered it was ~10 minutes off, and so far today, its remained accurate...I first did the 'daisy chain' ground thing mentioned in that how to, yesterday...which messed up the temp reading and made it spike to max...so i either fouled up the ring terminal, or it wasn't touching the right part of the sensor...or something...so i jacked the front up again real quick, reached under and just disconnected the small link from the temp to pressure sensor ground i had made...temp sensor worked perfectly after that...

but...what i can't remember is if i disconnected the battery when i did that...if i did...that is the difference with the clock, as it would've taken roughly 10 minutes...and i know i didn't reset that clock when completely finished because i wasn't thinking about it chasing the oil temp problem haha...

that might be all it was...i guess i won't know for sure until tomorrow morning again...
 
Do your gauges each have dedicated power and ground wires for their lights? If so, you can connect the ground side to the factory dimmer. I'll have to check the wire color if you're interested.
 
sorry, must've missed this...

Yeah, my gauges have seperate power and illumination lighting...The directions for the gauges are pretty vague though...not in how to intall them, but what each wire is doing...

The sensors are resistive...so do not need they're own power wire, its fed from the gauge's sensor line...The stepper motors get need their own switched power line, and ground (the clock needs constant)...then the illumination needs a power source that is switched with the head lights, and another ground...My gauges are not 'dimmed' by voltage like factory gauges, so the dimmer switch line does not change how bright they are...it seems these gauges use the one 12v power source for everything (needle movement and lighting)...and the illumination line is only a monitor to know when to turn on (much like a remote line for my sub amp)...

I'm saying this because if i simply do not connect the illumination line (the other lead and ground)...the gauges work but the lighting is permanently on...no matter what is going on with the head lights...the lighting is only turned OFF by connecting the illlumination lines, so the gauge's internals know when the internal lighting should be lit or not...I'm guessing this is why the dimmer line has no effect on the lighting of these gauges...Also, the 'illumination loom' has a little black box attached to it...so i'm not sure what its doing with that...but it still seems power for actually lighting the gauges is coming from the other power supply...not this 'lighting logic' connection...

but its not as full proof as i originally though...i've found that the accuracy problem with my clock is related to illumination...it stays dead accurate head lights are off...but loses about 1 minute for every 3 'real' minutes when its lit up...also...the clock doesn't follow the same wiring design...it needs a constant line, regardless of ignition position...and i found the wiring for that without any trouble...but, the clock does NOT light up if i disconnect the illumination lines from it...only the oil pressure and temp gauges do that...and when its connected, it lights up fine with head light switch...but gets noticeably slow...

i've been back in forth with them through email...they're claiming its a faulty clock and gave me an RMA to return it and have it fixed...i'm strongly considering just paying the extra $20 and having it turned into a voltage gauge...as the clock hands don't light up at night, and it looks pretty out of place at night because of it...the voltage gauge will quickly tap into the looms already in place, i just need to run the voltage sensor line out to the engine bay and find a pre-regulated line to splice into...any advice with that would be greatly appreciated...
 
Anyway, sorry for the slow progress...just been fighting off that rust lately, and so far so good...

clutch installation is coming in a few weeks, i've had the damn parts for months...its just a matter of blocking off a full weekend to get around doing it haha...after that, it'll really get moving through summer. Cams have broken in very nicely...still happy with how hard it pulls up in the revs...and the sound never gets old...

but before the clutch/flywheel...looks like i could have my 505 cold air box and full intake system by the end of next week...i'll do a full write up of the install and everything, and do some before and after pulls as best i can with torque pro...
 
I have a couple autometer mechanical gauges so my wiring is just for the lighting. Since you don't have a dedicated ground wire for the lighting you won't able to used the Protege's dimmer to control the brightness.

If you were to use the Protege dimmer you would connect ground wire to the dimmer. The Protege raises the voltage on the ground side to dim the lights. i.e. the difference in potential between the power feed and the ground is reduced and light dims.
 
oh ok, that makes sense...i wasn't aware of how the factory dimmer worked...all i knew was that speedhut offered a 'dimmer box' to wire between a factory switch and my gauges, for like $10, and i skipped it haha...
 
^Sadly, no not yet. I've paid for the 505 intake system, and a few other general stuff (needed new tires and some misc crap), as well as finally got some adjustable end links from another member...But still close financially to get it done. Problem is, i have most of the money needed, but still haven't researched enough to know exactly what i need...Thats what is taking a little longer than i planned. I'll definitely get to it soon, though.
 
He made different options for different applications. The NA CAB is more of a short ram/CAI hyrbrid. Shorter piping than a CAI, but still benefits from cold air because of the shielded box. Internal diameters are very similar to any of the aftermarket brands. So it should turn out great. I'm still on the stock air box haha, so it'll definitely be better than that.

There are fatter piping kits for turbo guys too, he was pretty flexible with what each guy needed. I'm excited, pretty sure its getting its final anodizing this week.
 
Isn't the 505 a manifold?

Installshield 2 said:
He made different options for different applications. The NA CAB is more of a short ram/CAI hyrbrid. Shorter piping than a CAI, but still benefits from cold air because of the shielded box. Internal diameters are very similar to any of the aftermarket brands. So it should turn out great. I'm still on the stock air box haha, so it'll definitely be better than that.

There are fatter piping kits for turbo guys too, he was pretty flexible with what each guy needed. I'm excited, pretty sure its getting its final anodizing this week.
Click to expand...
 
br289165 said:
Isn't the 505 a manifold?
Click to expand...

Rich has built all kinds of awesome s***, and yeah most so far has been for FI guys...but i'm in this GB

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123823991-505-Cold-Air-Box-GB

I got in last month when i discovered a big old split in my intake tubing. I've patched it with high temp sealant, and its been fine driveability wise...but it was just a temp fix until i get the full intake system...also, for the record haha, the split didn't happen until I removed it to check the gear box engine mount...I yanked on it before loosening the TB clamp enough, and it just tore along one of the ribs...so this problem wasn't something causing all that stalling i was going on about earlier this past winter...

505 still has spots open, and is very close to finished...i'm very confident this is the very best intake system ever made for these cars, and there is a full NA option with proper piping/couplers/everything...and only costs a little more than most other options.

i apologize, i guess i never put that link up in here...i'll take some install pics, and a before and after torque pro dyno run...getting the car weighed this saturday....I ordered my box anodized black with a red filter and black couplers, but there are more options for all that if anyone else gets interested...
 
hrmmm. I was thinking to just take out a headlight. Guess I can do that since I am not driving it on the street. Cant wait to hear more progress. G/L on the wedding stuff.
 
Sorry, still no big updates. I did get two front adjustable end-links installed...had a lot of fun, had to destroy both non-adjustable links in the process...The worst part was the driver's side, which i replaced with a Napa link a few years ago...The passenger side was completely original and had NEVER been taken off the sway bar haha. The Napa link uses a solid cup over the ball joint, the originals use a metal cup housing a plastic cup that presses onto the ball joint...the original popped off by hand easily, and i just vice gripped it and was done in 5 minutes (the allen key hole was dust on both of them)...the damn Napa one put up a fight for nearly 2 hours.

still have an annoying low speed clunk from the drivers side, which i was sure the end links would not fix anyway. The sway bar seems to have walked about 1 or 2 inches towards the driver side. I can definitely see the end link's angles are slightly different. It still freely pivots on the bushings, doesn't seem to come in contact with anything, and is tight when i pull or push on it...but under 10 mph, especially when turning over uneven pavement, it clunks like crazy. Even more annoying, it comes and goes with weather changes...when its hot out, it barely does it...when its colder (like early morning commute to work), it does it like crazy...rain makes it worse...if its dry and warm out, it'll be nearly gone entirely...it comes back as soon as it gets wet or the temp drops below about 50 degrees...

still thinking the bushings gave in and its a combination of that and the walking thing...I'm probably not going to touch it until the engine is out entirely.

finally have a set of JDM tail lights, which will be here tomorrow...and still waiting on my cold air box...hopefully that thing ships any day now...haven't had an update in a while, but it looks like they're finished with anodizing and waiting for final packaging...lastly, i returned my speed hut analog clock as it lost accuracy to an extreme degree when the head lights were on (any time the gauge illumination was lit, it would lose a minute every 3)...and i'm having it converted into a voltage gauge...hopefully have that back by next week.
 
Finally got my cold air box installed, and loving it so far...I had to apply some new sealant to the plexi glass on the lid, so these pics are without it...but that dried over night and everything is fine so far...

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9wG_iZEqPQNb1l2Vjl2a2xLRkE/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9wG_iZEqPQNZjZNaFU1S0FNcDg/edit?usp=sharing

for now this is just the test fitment, i need to finish that coolant reservoir bracket (or just getting an aftermarket bottle, which will look 100% better)...as well as tuck the coolant hose under the maf...plus some adjustments to get the couplers seated a little more evenly...but it runs great, very impressed with the throttle response...this intake with twiggy cams; the sound is pretty ridiculous above 4,000 rpm...

Also, i sent my analog clock back to speed hut a few weeks ago...as i mentioned, it was not keeping accurate time as soon as i had my head lights on and the gauge was lit up...I also wasn't thrilled that the hands did not light up, just the face...so i requested on the return to have it turned into a voltage gauge...not only did they do that at no charge, they also asked me if i'd like a logo printed on to it for free...

This is what i got in the mail on friday...

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9wG_iZEqPQNWjZXNjhPWHhxOWs/edit?usp=sharing

as usual, sorry about the pics...my smart phone has a great camera, but the lens has been scratched pretty badly in my pocket...so the auto-focus hasn't been that hot lately, especially in lower light situations...i'm due for an upgrade later this summer, but until then, i'm stuck with some 'bloomy' pics haha...

been ridiculously busy with wedding planning and work lately, so still haven't set aside a weekend for the clutch install...its coming soon, just need to source a crane from a friend and few random tools before i finally do that...
 
^thanks man, and yeah, when i started the thread i had been away from the forums for a little while...and just assumed there were no longer any NA builds going, but i was wrong...the original thread name was just a joke from the lord of the rings, but considering how slow this has been, and how i'm not fully set on exact specs for the bottom end just yet...it was bugging me, with some recent 'changes' towards a long time forum member...who was a little notorious for the way he talked about his own car...I didn't want to give off the same impression, thats all...so i asked a mod to change it...

no changes other than that though, still moving along...and it'll get much faster through the summer...
 
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