OK the Google slide helped a lot!
Project time 4-6 hours
Tools needed;
-13/16" socket ratchet, extension 1/2"or 3/8"drive
-10mm socket, extension ratchet 1/4"drive
-jewellers screw diver two flats, one Phillips
-Trox bits or 5mm allen wrech
-#3 Phillips screw driver
-needle noise pliers
-dental pics, or, oring pic, or, small hooked tool
-Dremal flat blade cut off wheel, and 3/16-1/4"die grinder bit
Parts needed;
-new ignition switch tumbler retaining pin difficulty hard!! , or
Difficultly intermediate new ignition lock tumbler with keys. See alt red text
-new ignition tumbler with keys for automatic 2006-2010 Mazda 5 rock auto 176.00!!!! Yikes I'm in Canada I was quoted 380.00 from the local parts store or Mazda was 319.00
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3779787&cc=1434567
I shined a light into the tumbler.. could see any big chunks, basically it was all fine slivers jammed in the lock pins!! Could only get the key in 3/4 of the way, no picking it out! On to the removal
Step 1 -disconnect the negative battery lead, step in the brakes to discharge the caps in the abs module
-telescope the wheel all the way out (towards the driver), tilt it to the middle position
-remove the two plastic air bag bolt covers at the back of the steering wheel
-remove the two 10mm bolts securing the air bag
-pull the air bag out, flip it over, use a jewellers flat screw driver to pry up the black TPA on each connector, and remove them, use two screw drivers on either side of the connector and depress the tabs while pulling up, repeat for the other one.
-remove the horn connector (easy)
-remove and store air bag face up, in a static free kid free place!
-unplug the steering wheel connector, to air bag coil
-remove the 13/16" steering wheel nut, mark the shaft to wheel with marker, remove the wheel feeding the SRS harness through the center. (do not rotate the steering shaft, or SRS coil (note haw the two plastic pins go through the hole in the steering wheel)
-remove the three Phillips screws holding the lower column cover on
-carefully squeeze the lower cover in relation to the upper and unsnap the two covers, carefully maneuver the lower cover around the tilt lever, and free it partially from the column to remove the ignition switch light,
-remove the two small Phillips screws holding it in place, and catch the red lens as it falls out! remove the lower and upper column covers.
-disconnect as many of the wiring as you can reach from all the various switches
-squeeze the two black tabs together on the left side harness to SRS coil, and the two gray tabs holding the upper harness to SRS coil (seen near the top, behind the coil carefully fish two jewellers screw drivers behind the black center piece to depress them.
-remove the three torx screws holding the SRS coil on, two at the front, one on the right top (two on top if Mazda 3), and lift the center tab up with a small screw driver, pull the SRS coil off enough to remove the last hard to reach connector.
-remove any remaining connectors from the column, and position the harness out of your way.
-at this point you will see two screws on either side if the aluminum switch housing, that have smoothe heads, you can either slot them with a dermal, or get them out with a fine tipped pair of needle nose pliers, and a strong grip, they are not that tight!
-Now pull the entire switch assemble of the column, pat your self on the back for getting this far!!!!!!
Step 3
-With the switch assembly on the bench, or drive way, use a dermal with a small 1/4" or so die grinder bit, and grind off the tumbler retaining pin, while holding the tumbler pushed in, you do not want to damage the housing on the right side closest to the key hole, or the tumbler will be forever loose! you can however remove some aluminum on the opposite side and not have any negative effect! Also if you have the key and it goes in and turns the tumbler, turn it to the run position and simply depress the button with a screw driver, and withdraw the tumbler. You don't have to grind it down all the way, as even with it in the loc position, there is some play, so keep gridding and trying to depress and pull it out, until it comes out. Be patient its a hardened steel pin!
Step 4a
Alternate procedure, install new ignition tumbler and keys, insert key into tumbler move to run position install. Disassemble your old key, remove the chip, transfer to the new key, times 2, for other key. Skip to step 5
Step 4b -Now that the tumbler is out, use a small screw driver or finger nails two pry off the white plastic button retainer on h top, of the tumbler, then remove the locking pin, and spring.
-withdraw the inner tumbler and locking pins as an assembly careful, to not let the pins drop out of order.
-draw a diagram on the inner tumbler labelling one side as the top, and the other as the bottom, one by one remove each pin using a dental pic, and remove its spring, and record its stamped number, and its location, there is 5 slots per side of the tumbler, but mine only had four pins per side, so note the location of the missing pin, on each side!! Take pictures, and notes along the way! Note you may encounter a few stuck pins, if they are gummed up with wood?? or crap! so be patient wiggle them free.
-Now there is one extra thick plate (anit lock picking blocking device) that needs to be picked out, its near the keyhole entry, not to be confused with the small hinged tab, that will stay!
-Now rinse the inner tumbler with hot water, and blow it out with compressed air, or a hair drier, and dry it out well! Carefully clean all the locking pins (they are actually more like a plate then a pin)
-use white lithium grease or Vaseline, and coat each locking pin, and spring, insert eh spring and plates in order, of removal, test fit the key, if they are right the key will go in all the way, and none of the pins/plates will stick out, when pressed in lightly, if they don't, they are either bent, or in the wrong place! Its trail ad error if you messed up the order!
-ounce your happy remove the key, and inset the inner tumbler it only goes in one way, you have to align the tops of the locking pins with the slots in the outer tumbler, and depress each pin, to move the tumbler into its outer shell, if you get 905 of the way in, and the end hits the top, remove it and flip it over, and repeat the process until it slides all the way in.
-test it by holding the inner and outer tumbler together, and inset the key, you should be able to rotate the inner tumbler from the outer.
-insert the key cylinder into the aluminum housing, and turn it a bit to align with the inner shaft, verify it works correctly, turn the key to the run position, to align the inner piece for proper installation.
-ounce again withdraw the ignition cylinder assembly, and remove the key.
-now You need a new retaining pin, maybe from a lock smith?? or find a similar in a wrecker? I stole one from a 2004 chevy Colorado locking cylinder I had laying around, it was similar but the middle part was larger so I drilled out the mazda pin bore, and filled the plastic retainer slightly.
-slide the spring over your new lock retaining pin (one side is a large diameter it will only go one way) and install in with the plastic retainer back onto the tumbler.
-insert the key, and rotate the inner tumbler, until the retaining pin drops into its slot, run position (with slight finger pressure on the pin)
-snap the tumbler lock ignition assembly back into its aluminum housing, until you see the locking pin pop back into place.
Step 5 -verify correct operation, and test for looseness of the tumbler, if its loose its either not all the way, or you ground the right side of the pin bore...bad!!!
-You can test it by plugging the entire ignition switch in, connecting the battery, and starting the car!
remainder of install is reverse of removal!
