How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

[719prottege]

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[livelyjay]

Hey Turf, finally got around to using your awesome how-to and it made changing out the clutch really straight forward.

 

[meGrimlock]

going to attempt a clutch/flywheel install soon. this is a great write up. have a couple questions about the axle seals.

looking to pick these up at the local auto store, federal-mogul and timken list separate part numbers for the LH and RH seals when i cross reference the supplied p/n. is F00327238C (supercedes F00327238B) the correct mazda part number for both the left and the right? if so, will i need 2 seals for this job?

if this is the case i may just break down and make a separate run to the dealer to be safe. thanks
-meGrimlock

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Yup, same seal for both sides.

 

[br289165]

Steve, I need to pull may 5 speed P5 trans to change the clutch/flywheel and reseal the rear main plate to the block, it's leaking. Do I have to pull the motor mounts or just the trans mounts? Also whats the blue fluid on the gears in your pics?

 

[Prodigy]

You'll have to pull the front, rear bracket, and left/driver side motor mount.
Just be sure that you have something to support the engine or you'll tear the passenger side mount.

 

[br289165]

I just unbolt the rear mount where it meets the trans not the 3 nuts on top of the mount right?

 

[shane02pro5]

Right!

 

[br289165]

s*** I thought i had to take the motor out to get the trans out, this is better. Thanks

 

[br289165]

What is the blue liquid all over the gears?

 

[Donutz]

First off, mad props to the OP and everyone who has had input to this thread over the years. I registered here just for this thread. I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd bump it for some information that I haven't seen discussed in great detail (or at all).

I'll be tackling a clutch/FW/LSD install on my G35MR early in 2012. When speaking with some shops who sell the Mfactory LSD, they recommend that I replace the races when replacing the diff bearings. One proprietor recommended I take my tranny to a proper tranny shop as there are 'specialty tools' required for setting the bearing preload. I haven't seen any conversation here about replacing the races and setting bearing preload on the diff bearings; did anyone undertake this task? If so could you please provide some tips and comments on what you did, or what to look out for?

As far as I'm aware the procedure is pretty straight forward. You remove old the races and shims from the case, install new races without shims but don't press the races all the way in. Install the LSD and case, and torque the case shut; this should press the races in place. You then measure the gap where the original shims were using a feeler gauge, and add 'x' thousandths for the preload to figure out what size shim you (I) need (I believe in my case it is 0.006). Then you take case apart, remove LSD, remove race, install shim, and reassemble. Seems straight forward to me, but I was thrown off when I was advised to take my tranny to a tranny shop; I'm wondering if I'm missing something, or if my methodology is lacking in some way.

Thanks again for the awesome thread, and any feedback anyone can provide about shims, races, and bearing preload.

 

[shootz]

I did all of the races. The bearing preload is determined by the size of shim that you have behind the race. The larger the shim, the more the load on the bearing. If you follow the Mazda tranny rebuild pdf (not the google docs version.. do a search for the link) if links to the proper specs in inch-pounds... very small amounts of torque. These need to be monitored for the primary & secondary shafts as well as the differential. What you do to test them is install them one at a time into the tranny, then test the preload for each. I replaced all of the bearings and races. My tranny feels new... it basically is. The tranny preload did get tighter w/ the new bearings, but luckily was still within spec. The shims are spendy if you have to buy a bunch, not knowing what you really need.

Your method of "pressing" in the races is not quite the same as the pdf's iirc. they used spacers for all of the shafts and the diff and then measured the tolerance. Your idea will likely work though. It takes a while, but there is only a reason to go to the tranny shop if you need to replace the shaft bearings and can't remove/press them onto the shafts. That's why I went in w/ my shafts and diff (no press, plus I replaced 2 synchros).

 

[Donutz]

Excellent! Thanks for responding. I think my original post was somewhat misleading when I said 0.006. I meant to say the shim size would be the gap between the race and case, plus 0.006. I will only be replacing the races on the diff so I think my methodology should work, but I'll look for that rebuild guide. I got discombobulated by what I'm being told by retailers, so I'll give it a go and hopefully it all works out; if it doesn't I'll have to take the tranny to a shop.

 

[TurfBurn]

The other side of the answer is that a lot of people never did the pre-load adjustments. It can result in more bearing wear and poor gas mileage, or some slop in the transmission, but most cases it was "close enough" and worked out for those that did it. What you have posted and the information above is the "right" way to do it and for some people was the step that was too much and made them take it to a shop.

Good stuff though!

 

[TurfBurn]

One other way to set the distances if you are doing it by clearances is to buy the special clay strips that you place in and when they get compressed you can tell by their width the clearance of where they are. Can't remember the name of the stuff but it is common/standard stuff for doing engine work like replacing rod and crank bearings.

 

[maxchao]

So it is not necessary to drop the whole drive shaft and joint shaft when removing the tranny? i.e. no need to tackle with that 32mm 250ft-lb locknut on the wheel hub?

I think this How To is for MP3 owners right? I guess it would be pretty similar for P5 owners? I am just changing the clutch, so won't have to open up the tranny.

 

[IshSonP5]

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[CheeseHelmet]

So it is not necessary to drop the whole drive shaft and joint shaft when removing the tranny? i.e. no need to tackle with that 32mm 250ft-lb locknut on the wheel hub?

You don't have to but it'll make your life a lot easier, lining up both the tranny input shaft and the drive shaft at the same time is a pain in the ass (and you'll probably end up accidentally tearing the axle seal). There are a few ways to get the shaft out of the way without loosening the axle nut (although that's probably the easiest way). When I did it I unbolted the control arm and unbolted the steering knuckle from the strut. That way you'll have enough clearance to remove and re-install the axle and joint shaft.

I think you should just unbolt the axle, I know it might sound scary but it's really the easiest option. Use the method in this how-to to loosen the nut, then to tighten it just line the "stake marks" back up. Or if you use a new nut you can simply use a large cheater pipe and spring scale as a makeshift torque wrench (multiply the weight reported by the spring scale by the length of the pipe to get the equivalent torque in foot-pounds). The service manual says to tighten that nut to 174-235 ft-lbs, don't over tighten it! Aim for about 200 ft-lbs, over-tightening an axle nut is just as bad as leaving it loose.

I think this How To is for MP3 owners right? I guess it would be pretty similar for P5 owners? I am just changing the clutch, so won't have to open up the tranny.

Yup, it's the same engine/tranny.

 

[shane02pro5]

I really advise against having to beat out the axle from the hub and just unbolt the strut and the balljoint from the hub and the 2 bolts on the halfshaft mount if all that is even necessary like you mentioned above. I have had my tranny out several times and just this last go around I needed to mess with the passenger side axle for a little extra clearance to not tear up the axle seal??

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I really advise against having to beat out the axle from the hub and just unbolt the strut and the balljoint from the hub and the 2 bolts on the halfshaft mount if all that is even necessary like you mentioned above. I have had my tranny out several times and just this last go around I needed to mess with the passenger side axle for a little extra clearance to not tear up the axle seal??

You're probably good at mechanic-ing

I tried lining it all up a few times but I just couldn't do it, after removing the joint shaft it was so easy to get the tranny back on. Also, my passenger-side axle came out of the hub without much effort, it was probably the only thing on my car that hasn't started rusting. That being said, I'm aware that some people's axles are stuck in place...

Luckily we have a bunch of options to get this job done