What is the Best Way to Remove the Front Strut Mount and Re-Install the Swaybar?

16vPete

Throttle-Lift-Oversteer
:
2014 Mazda2 Sport
I attempted to install my CS shocks and Eibach springs today! I picked up some tools on my way home from work as its been a good 8 years or so since I've done suspension work.

I got the front passenger one off no problem, but after I compressed the spring and tried to remove the mount it wouldn't budge. I am only using a 3/8 drive socket and wrench with a hole through it to put the allen wrench. I tried and tried and couldn't get it. I reinstalled everything, put the wheel back on, and then then tried with it under load. Still nothing. I went a head and torqued everything and decided to try another time.

So, 2 questions:


Is this a job best left for an impact wrench with the car under load (at least to loosen it a tad), or is there a particular tool that would work best? I searched around and tried the deep socket and vise-grip method but my deep sockets are too shiny and have no grip.


Also, I had a little trouble getting the swaybar endlink back in. When I put the top nuts and 2 lower bolts back in, the endlink would not move low enough. I re-installed everything including wheel, turned the steering wheel far to the left, slipped it in while pressing down on the swaybar, jacked it back up/took off the wheel, then torqued the endlink down. Is there an easier way to do it?

I took the car for a quick spin and didn't notice any slop or clunking noise, so I assume everything's ok.
 
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The top nut was a lot easier to remove using a impact wrech for me. You can do the methos of allen key and wind it out but is a pain and tools need to be exact. The sway bar link sounds like the position has changed slightlu from removing the strut but as long as you reconnect it and no thuds then i guess it is allright. I did use air tools when i installed my springs, and made life very easy, maybe take out the struts and bring to a shop to just swap them over if you are really struggling

Hope that helps
 
make sure the suspension is loaded (on ground) before you attach the links to the frame
 
Whenever i do this on my car I always loosen the top nuts which hold the shock onto the top hat while the car is on the ground. for some reason it helps to prevent the shock shaft from spinning. I usually use an impact because I have one, but I have done it with a normal impact as well.

If they are already off the car I usually take a piece of silicone or rubber tubing and use vice grips to hold the shock shaft. The rubber prevents the vice grips from hitting the shock shaft, and it gives them grip on the smooth shaft.

As for the end link, either do it with both fronts on the ground or with both fronts up in the air. Otherwise if the other side of the car is on the ground the suspension is compressed 2 inches or so making the end link on the side you are working on 2 inches higher than the mount since the suspension on the side you are working on is down all of the way since it is off the ground. If you are ever at that point though, you can always use a jack under the lower ball joint to jack the suspension up until the end link lines up with the bracket.
 
I did the fronts no problem today! I took my time and didn't have any major troubles.

However, I had trouble with the rears. What is the best way to remove the 2 12mm bolts from the upper strut mount? Is there a way to get at them from inside the car? I tried from the wheel well, however I didn't have enough leverage - I'm thinking an extension and 1/2" socket for my 1/2" wrench should do the job, but its pretty tight.

I did the rear springs no problem, I was amazed at how easy that was.
 
For the rear top hat you have to get them from the wheel well. I always use a deep socket for them. It lowered the wrench a little more so you have more room to work in. Other than that they might just be tight from factory, once you break them loose you should be fine. Just a matter of leverage on that one.
 

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