DRoyarcher
Member
now that it's getting warmer how is this stuff holding up to the heat?
Did anyone do a roof application and is it still sticking?
Did anyone do a roof application and is it still sticking?
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How To: Quiet down cabin noise and improve sound for cheap
- Thread starter Matt V
- Start date
now that it's getting warmer how is this stuff holding up to the heat?
Did anyone do a roof application and is it still sticking?
We've had a couple of 90+ degree days so far, and it seems to be holding up for me. I just did the doors tho.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
Man, after reading this thread, I gotta do this. I'll probably just do doors first, then maybe get more adventurous later.
Ty07allstar
Member
- :
- 03 Protege ES
Did this to the top of my trunk and the bottom of my trunk today. Deadens the noise pretty good.
fred_spitfire
Member
- :
- Black Protege 5
where do you guys buy these? im wondering where to get it down here
EDIT : meant what section of the store sorry
EDIT : meant what section of the store sorry
Last edited:
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
where do you guys buy these? im wondering where to get it down here
please refer to the 1st post in this thread...
Ty07allstar
Member
- :
- 03 Protege ES
where do you guys buy these? im wondering where to get it down here
EDIT : meant what section of the store sorry
It was with the air conditioning, air duct stuff.
fred_spitfire
Member
- :
- Black Protege 5
It was with the air conditioning, air duct stuff.
thanks!
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
This is what I've been saying the whole time.... get the product meant to do the job you're doing... it'll do it better.Price of this stuff must have went up. I thought when this thread started it was like $14.98 a roll. Now its up to $18.77 here locally which makes eDead 45 cheaper per sq. foot
get the product meant to do the job you're doing... it'll do it better
word.
I'm not harshing the frost king approach, its just that for a little more (not so little now) you could get the real thing and probably get better results.
after about two months of breaking in my sub in my spare tire well. I was sittin in a parkinglot today waiting for my sons bus to drop him of I was listening to some bass and heard a rattle and after getting out to see what it was I noticed that both my rear doors not only vibrate but the entire outer shells flex very bad. Im gonna have to try this out I have some leftover dynamat from doing my trunk I hope this works out my only problem is how to get it inside the door shell . Im gonna tackle this over the weekend because I cant stand the vibration plus I have another comp so I can use the added DBs.
Justin2129
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege 5
definitely trying this
SocialStealth
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
Most modern (quality) sound deadeners use butyl (or however you spell it).
Asphalt smells bad, and melts in extreme heat.
The majority of the results you experience (90%) are from adding sound deadening to the CENTER 25% of the panel that is flexing.
Its a waste of money to cover the rest unless your competing.
Sound deadener (or anything that looks like tin foil), is not a sound barrier. Sound barriers need mass to block sound. The foil simply weighs down the panel and converts the mechanical energy into heat, thus preventing the panel from flexing. The most common Sound Barrier is Mass Loaded Vinyl.
The cheaper, less professional method for making a sound barrier is using MDF (or another dense wood) for the majority of the barrier, and using MLV for the curves that you just can't do with wood.
Having said all of that, the absolute cheapest and most effective way to dampen panels and prevent them from flexing is Bracing them. This can be done with MDF 3/4'' wood, or another dense wood. Just bolt the wood to the panel and the frame. The only down fall is you'll have to drill permanent holes in your car, and some areas are hard to get to.
Edit: If your looking for sound deadener, never buy dynamat, because its terribly over priced. look up sounddeadenershowdown.com or second skin
Asphalt smells bad, and melts in extreme heat.
The majority of the results you experience (90%) are from adding sound deadening to the CENTER 25% of the panel that is flexing.
Its a waste of money to cover the rest unless your competing.
Sound deadener (or anything that looks like tin foil), is not a sound barrier. Sound barriers need mass to block sound. The foil simply weighs down the panel and converts the mechanical energy into heat, thus preventing the panel from flexing. The most common Sound Barrier is Mass Loaded Vinyl.
The cheaper, less professional method for making a sound barrier is using MDF (or another dense wood) for the majority of the barrier, and using MLV for the curves that you just can't do with wood.
Having said all of that, the absolute cheapest and most effective way to dampen panels and prevent them from flexing is Bracing them. This can be done with MDF 3/4'' wood, or another dense wood. Just bolt the wood to the panel and the frame. The only down fall is you'll have to drill permanent holes in your car, and some areas are hard to get to.
Edit: If your looking for sound deadener, never buy dynamat, because its terribly over priced. look up sounddeadenershowdown.com or second skin
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yeah, the transfer or generation of noise through vibrations, of which there is a lot in a car. Adding a dampening material inhibits those vibrations thereby lessening the noise caused by them. To really make it quite you could strip all the insulation packed into a lexus at the scrap yard and shoehorn it into your car.
I just finished installing on all four of my doors and I did find an improvement. what I found was inside of one of my doors between the outer door shell and that metal bar support inside the door the rubber pieces had all broken loose causing major vibratin everytime the bass in the door speaker hit. I went to lowes and picked up two cans of Greatstuff foam gap sealer and applied it between the bar and outerdoorskin on all four doors and I have found a much greater improvement and now when I close my doors none of them have any vibration all I get now is a thump when shutting my door. I did a quick testdrive after everything was put back together and I have lost alot of the road noise. it didnt bother me before I did this install for SPL comps . two weeks ago I had a competition and tomorrow I have another competition and will be using the same meter I used last time so like a dyno on a tuned car I can see if I have an increase in SPL . If so then awsume for a cheap dynamat material.
I just finished installing on all four of my doors and I did find an improvement. what I found was inside of one of my doors between the outer door shell and that metal bar support inside the door the rubber pieces had all broken loose causing major vibratin everytime the bass in the door speaker hit. I went to lowes and picked up two cans of Greatstuff foam gap sealer and applied it between the bar and outerdoorskin on all four doors and I have found a much greater improvement and now when I close my doors none of them have any vibration all I get now is a thump when shutting my door. I did a quick testdrive after everything was put back together and I have lost alot of the road noise. it didnt bother me before I did this install for SPL comps . two weeks ago I had a competition and tomorrow I have another competition and will be using the same meter I used last time so like a dyno on a tuned car I can see if I have an increase in SPL . If so then awsume for a cheap dynamat material.
Awesome, let us know how it goes...
I have the results of SPL. a cpl of weeks ago before sound deadening my doors I had a SPL of 130.9. Yesterday on the same mic I had a 131.7 so it was almost a full DB gain.
So you're saying the car actually got louder after the sound deadening?
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