I know many people have gotten this taken care of at the dealer but if you want to do it yourself, here is how I did it and I'm very happy with the results.
Big thanks to Savoire for sending me excellent instructions and helping me out.
The before picture
Things you need...
Bricks or wooden blocks
Jack
Lug Wrench
Wheel Lock Key
Flat-Head Screw Driver
Sand Paper or Steel Wool
Hi Temp Spray Paint
Masking Tape
Ratchet with a 12mm and 14mm
-Take a look at your rust and decide to do something about it.
-Put your car in gear and let down the parking brake. Make sure you have blocks in front and back of each wheel you're not taking off.
-Using your jack, Lug wrench and wheel lock key remove the tire.
-The hand brake cable comes from the front of the car ending with a T and a clip. Remove the clip that holds the handbrake cable to the spring arm. This is easily done with a long flat-head screw driver.
-Push on the spring arm (where the cable T ending is attached) towards the front of the car. This should give you enough slack to get the cable off from where the clip was holding it. Now the handbrake is completely removed.
-Now, locate the brake S line. You should see a clamp holding it to the strut. Remove the clamp by tapping on it with a long flat head screw driver and a hammer. This step will be handy later on.
-Now locate the top caliper sliding bolt. Its a 12 mm bolt you have on top of the caliper. Unbolt it. To un-torque the bolt I tapped a bit on the ratchet with a hammer. Now this is a long bolt but of course the thread isnt. Just remove it and protect it from any dirt. There should be grease on it. Keep it greased.
-Now you will be able to rotate the caliper on its lower sliding bolt. This will make it clear the pads. Thats the previous step is useful is useful. Be sure to not stretch the brake oil line too much though.
-Now push the caliper inward the car, so that it slides off of its last sliding bolt and off the caliper mounting bracket.
-Attach the caliper to the frame so as to be sure it doesnt fall. You can attach it with rope to the shock spring. I found it convenient to simply lay it between the sway bar and link bar.
-You can now remove the anti rattle spring between the two pads. After that, the pads themselves. They are pretty tight but will come off. Remember which is which because they have already adapted to your rotor. Best thing to do is to leave their protective plates on, which in turn have rust marks giving away their previous positions.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Crock/spring.jpg[/spring]
-Now to the caliper mounting bracket. First, notice the other sliding screw, greased. You also should avoid getting dirt on this one too. The caliper mounting bracket has two bolts holding it. A 14mm nut with ratchet will quickly take these off, after what youll have complete access to the rotor.
[img]http://www.msprotege.com/members/Crock/14mm.jpg
-The rotor should now be stuck there because of rust. Gently vibrate it to remove it. You can also use a hammer with a wood piece to tap on it, front and back. If that doesnt work, try to put WD-40 into the two holes on the hub that are there for exactly that. And there you go, rotor in your hand.
-Sand off the rust. The more you sand, the more rust you remove. I sanded for about 15 minutes per rotor. I used 40 grit sand paper and then I cleaned off excess dust and rust with rubbing alcohol.
-Tape off the rotors with masking tape.
-Spray away. (I sprayed on 2 coats of primer and about 5 or 6 coats of high temp paint.)
Big thanks to Savoire for sending me excellent instructions and helping me out.
The before picture
Things you need...
Bricks or wooden blocks
Jack
Lug Wrench
Wheel Lock Key
Flat-Head Screw Driver
Sand Paper or Steel Wool
Hi Temp Spray Paint
Masking Tape
Ratchet with a 12mm and 14mm
-Take a look at your rust and decide to do something about it.
-Put your car in gear and let down the parking brake. Make sure you have blocks in front and back of each wheel you're not taking off.
-Using your jack, Lug wrench and wheel lock key remove the tire.
-The hand brake cable comes from the front of the car ending with a T and a clip. Remove the clip that holds the handbrake cable to the spring arm. This is easily done with a long flat-head screw driver.
-Push on the spring arm (where the cable T ending is attached) towards the front of the car. This should give you enough slack to get the cable off from where the clip was holding it. Now the handbrake is completely removed.
-Now, locate the brake S line. You should see a clamp holding it to the strut. Remove the clamp by tapping on it with a long flat head screw driver and a hammer. This step will be handy later on.
-Now locate the top caliper sliding bolt. Its a 12 mm bolt you have on top of the caliper. Unbolt it. To un-torque the bolt I tapped a bit on the ratchet with a hammer. Now this is a long bolt but of course the thread isnt. Just remove it and protect it from any dirt. There should be grease on it. Keep it greased.
-Now you will be able to rotate the caliper on its lower sliding bolt. This will make it clear the pads. Thats the previous step is useful is useful. Be sure to not stretch the brake oil line too much though.
-Now push the caliper inward the car, so that it slides off of its last sliding bolt and off the caliper mounting bracket.
-Attach the caliper to the frame so as to be sure it doesnt fall. You can attach it with rope to the shock spring. I found it convenient to simply lay it between the sway bar and link bar.
-You can now remove the anti rattle spring between the two pads. After that, the pads themselves. They are pretty tight but will come off. Remember which is which because they have already adapted to your rotor. Best thing to do is to leave their protective plates on, which in turn have rust marks giving away their previous positions.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Crock/spring.jpg[/spring]
-Now to the caliper mounting bracket. First, notice the other sliding screw, greased. You also should avoid getting dirt on this one too. The caliper mounting bracket has two bolts holding it. A 14mm nut with ratchet will quickly take these off, after what youll have complete access to the rotor.
[img]http://www.msprotege.com/members/Crock/14mm.jpg
-The rotor should now be stuck there because of rust. Gently vibrate it to remove it. You can also use a hammer with a wood piece to tap on it, front and back. If that doesnt work, try to put WD-40 into the two holes on the hub that are there for exactly that. And there you go, rotor in your hand.
-Sand off the rust. The more you sand, the more rust you remove. I sanded for about 15 minutes per rotor. I used 40 grit sand paper and then I cleaned off excess dust and rust with rubbing alcohol.
-Tape off the rotors with masking tape.
-Spray away. (I sprayed on 2 coats of primer and about 5 or 6 coats of high temp paint.)
