Jaysanooch
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Msp
Thanks guys...this is why I kept this for last and also because I'm still not sure if I have 70durometer in my hands. I'll wait until my rear mount breaks or something.
How-To : AWR Rear Mount Install
- Thread starter gar777
- Start date
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
Jaysanooch said:
I did the same thing bought both then got reading on here about the vibration even with the 70's and decided to just do the front after I had the rear mount out and everything.
sly mantis
Member
hum...how does dropping the cross member make it easier to get a socket on those bolts?
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
sly mantis said:
Cause it makes them farther away from the firewall. It also drops the mount down from the harness where it makes it alot easier to get that bottom nut off.
Last edited:
hmmmmmmm I'm about to embark on this but yeah it's after 10 and I have to work in the morning. I'm starting to think this isn't such a good idea.
Oh and the whole breaking the stud off the firewall thing.. ????? what?!
For clarification I'm going down there to install rear motor mount inserts, not to replace the mount entirely. I wonder how much of the instructions apply.
Oh and the whole breaking the stud off the firewall thing.. ????? what?!
For clarification I'm going down there to install rear motor mount inserts, not to replace the mount entirely. I wonder how much of the instructions apply.
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
Kansei said:
Thats why if you lower the whole cross member which isnt too hard you can get to the bolts with out breaking any studs off the firewall and you can get to the bottom nut very easy on the harness.
*phew* I inspected my rear motor mount after getting the battery/tray and intake off, and it's MINT (mint for 71k miles at least). My problem isn't related to that mount, it's the mount on the tranny that is the problem. Does the mount normally have some little metal bracket with a rectangular block of rubber on it? I seem to recall removing one at some point and something of that nature would definitely make that side motor mount stop moving forward and backward like it does right now.
I got this done a few days ago... I dont see how this was hard at all. At first I struggled with the stupid bracked but then I thought to myself: "That bracket dont know me". Thats when I went to the basemet and got the biggest one hand hammer I could find along with a piece of metal piping that I ground at a 45 degree angle. I set the sharp end of the pipe on the the bracket and starting giving it all I had. I ended up cutting it in little pieces every once in a while to make the pounding easier. Then the bottom stud finally broke and it was super easy from there. I also noticed that since the intercooler piping and the battery are out of the way this is the perfect time to clean your EGR. I was able to take it off with a ratchet and a socket, no swivel was needed. Only a 1" extensions for the rear bolt. Very easy to do.
diegosurfer5
Member
- :
- 09 MS3
nice post good detail. i already did the front and rear and i stil haev the inserts for the side mounts does anybody know how to do the side ones i spent two hours today trying to do it i got the mount off of the car but i couldnt get the pole that goes into the mount that attaches to the motor. i dont want to break the side mounts they already have some cracks in them. any suggestions????
I tackled this rear mount today and boy was it hell. The fact that it is underneath everything, and every single wire and hose gets in the way is what makes this tough. Took about 5 hours to do, mostly just staring and thinking how the hell can we make this easier?!? In the end, we didn't have many solutions, lol. The front one went in right after, and was pure and simple, took 10 minutes. We didn't take off the crossmember under the car. DOing so made it a bit tougher to get at the back two bolts, but using a load of 1/2" drive extensions with a swivel at the bottom, proved enough to crack them loose. This after we tried using lots of 3/8" drive extensions, and we snapped one, lol. After getting the stock rear mount out, it was much easier to install the lateral bolt with the new one if you unbolt the mount brace from the motor so it drops down slightly. That way, it's way easier to get that bolt in. We ended up snapping off that stud, but just filled the hole right away with some silicone. The one top stud and nut was enough to hold that black bracket in place with that gigantic group of wires. All in all, took a hell of alot of effort and swearing, but I like the result. I used the 70 durometer bushings and it's a noticeable difference in the cabin. Great writeup by the way, it made the install so much easier! Explanations were great, no pictures were needed to identify things.
Laser03pro
Member
- :
- 1995 Miata
I dont get why every1 breaks the stud off its not nessesary. Also if you take the battery out it gives you a ton more room.
I installed the AWR rear motor mount and I had no problems whatsoever.
The new motor mount was on about 15 minutes after I started unbolting the engine(my tranny was already out).
The install was a piece of cake for me.... but I may be the only one though.
The new motor mount was on about 15 minutes after I started unbolting the engine(my tranny was already out).
The install was a piece of cake for me.... but I may be the only one though.
I'll do it for you the next time you're down south!
(excuse to join the ATL autoxs?)
Even Rogue had a hard time with the engine + trans out... don't see how.
I found it to be easier to install the rear mm than to put a stock intake back together.
(excuse to join the ATL autoxs?)
Even Rogue had a hard time with the engine + trans out... don't see how.
I found it to be easier to install the rear mm than to put a stock intake back together.
Ok it's 1am and I gotta be up at 6am to get to work.. but my car's sitting in the garage with the intake manifold out.. and tons of other stuff out.
I have my RR Racing rear motor mount inserts installed, but now I can't get the bracket that goes between the mount and the engine to fit over it.. am I just supposed to bend it so that it fits over the now thicker rubber??
I have my RR Racing rear motor mount inserts installed, but now I can't get the bracket that goes between the mount and the engine to fit over it.. am I just supposed to bend it so that it fits over the now thicker rubber??
sly mantis
Member
finally did this 2 days ago. This was the 3rd try at it and i finally got it.
God that was one of the most frustrating things ive ever done. Not hard really as its pretty straight forward, but definitly frustrating.
The 3 nuts holding the mount on all decided to strip so i had to use a stripped nut extractor on it. (those things work great, i suggest having them on hand just in case, look up craftsman bolt out).
I had to use a 2ft breaker bar to get those nuts loose, and even then they only came out after herculean effort. And I actually sprained my shoulder doing this, (and dont think im a whimp i work out on a regular basis). They are that tough, when they finally let go they let go with a loud bang. Even then they still require alot of effort to get off due to the amount of rust that has probably built up on the studs. I even broke my 1/2" drive U-joint because i was putting so much force through them.
when you try to remove the bolt going through the mount, those heater hoses in teh back will be in the way but just turn them up and you'll be fine.
Also i suggest doing the front mount first and saving the nuts from it incase you strip all the nuts like i did (the new awr front moutn comes with new nuts). even then I had to go get one more nut as that only gave me 2 extra and i needed 3. Just for the record the nuts are M12 x 1.25. These are a bit harder to find, most places around me only had M12 x1.75, a few had 1.50. had to go to about 7 different stores to find them.
but yeah definitly have a long extension for your ratchet or a big breaker bar.
Opinions on the mounts:
Well both my front and rear mounts were really f-ed up. the rubber was completely torn on both of them, so i could feed the engine moving and jumping around every time i started it up or tryed to accellerate hard.
The new mounts definitly give more vibrations but its not completely terrible (ive got the 88 auto mounts, and i drive manual)
definitly wouldnt got with the 95, would go with the 70, but i got the 88s for a good price so i cant complain. It definitly has cured the engine moving around. the car runs and accellerates alot better, and can now shift smoother as teh engine doesn keep moving around from the torque.
I will probably try filling in my side mount in the future as people claim that the side inserts cured most of the vibration, i'll see if filling in the side mount myself with epoxy will help cure any of the vibrations.
God that was one of the most frustrating things ive ever done. Not hard really as its pretty straight forward, but definitly frustrating.
The 3 nuts holding the mount on all decided to strip so i had to use a stripped nut extractor on it. (those things work great, i suggest having them on hand just in case, look up craftsman bolt out).
I had to use a 2ft breaker bar to get those nuts loose, and even then they only came out after herculean effort. And I actually sprained my shoulder doing this, (and dont think im a whimp i work out on a regular basis). They are that tough, when they finally let go they let go with a loud bang. Even then they still require alot of effort to get off due to the amount of rust that has probably built up on the studs. I even broke my 1/2" drive U-joint because i was putting so much force through them.
when you try to remove the bolt going through the mount, those heater hoses in teh back will be in the way but just turn them up and you'll be fine.
Also i suggest doing the front mount first and saving the nuts from it incase you strip all the nuts like i did (the new awr front moutn comes with new nuts). even then I had to go get one more nut as that only gave me 2 extra and i needed 3. Just for the record the nuts are M12 x 1.25. These are a bit harder to find, most places around me only had M12 x1.75, a few had 1.50. had to go to about 7 different stores to find them.
but yeah definitly have a long extension for your ratchet or a big breaker bar.
Opinions on the mounts:
Well both my front and rear mounts were really f-ed up. the rubber was completely torn on both of them, so i could feed the engine moving and jumping around every time i started it up or tryed to accellerate hard.
The new mounts definitly give more vibrations but its not completely terrible (ive got the 88 auto mounts, and i drive manual)
definitly wouldnt got with the 95, would go with the 70, but i got the 88s for a good price so i cant complain. It definitly has cured the engine moving around. the car runs and accellerates alot better, and can now shift smoother as teh engine doesn keep moving around from the torque.
I will probably try filling in my side mount in the future as people claim that the side inserts cured most of the vibration, i'll see if filling in the side mount myself with epoxy will help cure any of the vibrations.
