How-To : AWR Rear Mount Install

protegeric said:
wat a weener, wah wah wah, 70`s... haha... call the WHAMbulance!
Click to expand...

I assume you are facetious, so...call me someone who likes to retain a little driving comfort. I was simply ignorant as to how much a pair of motor mounts would change the comfort of daily driving.

I wanted others considering doing this to know exactly what they are in for according to another memeber's exerience; after all, isn't that a big part of what these forums are about? (poke)

If you are using 90 level mounts, then I guess there is a different balance of comfort:performance for you than there is for me.
 
Did mine last night, and wow, that damn nut on the bottom of the wiring harness was a PITA until I figured it out, then it went ok. Another PITA thing was aligning the new mount to get the bolt through it. Other then that started at around 8:30 and got done around midnight, took two breaks to watch some TV and relax a bit but it went smooth just took a long time getting to everything, if you have small hands then this would be so much easier..haha! Little Asian hands that put these things together, just kidding, it was a joke, haha! Ok, haven't driven it yet but I had all three bushings to choose from and decided to go with the 70's. I will never take this thing out so I'm going to have to be happy with them.. If anything I'll change out the front mount inserts if I need a bit more stiffness which I don't think I will. OH yeah, factory rear mount was torn a bit as well...go figure. Overall I'm really happy knowing I have a solid mount in there.

Wow, first impressions: It vibrates, but so what, I know my motor is mounted down like a mofo now. Also, I used to have a 69 SS chevelle 396 that used to rock the Fark out of the car so this is nothing. Anyway, wheel hop = NO MORE! I did a bunch of launches and it's awesome to just have tire spin now and no more bouncing like I had switches. AWESOME PRODUCT!!!
 
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thats wat i was gettin at... im a dummy and put in the 95 durometer, wish i had the 70 or 80 somethins. good for u gettin the 70 durometer. i thot WHAMbulance was funny... ehh...

tallrd said:
I assume you are facetious, so...call me someone who likes to retain a little driving comfort. I was simply ignorant as to how much a pair of motor mounts would change the comfort of daily driving.

I wanted others considering doing this to know exactly what they are in for according to another memeber's exerience; after all, isn't that a big part of what these forums are about? (poke)

If you are using 90 level mounts, then I guess there is a different balance of comfort:performance for you than there is for me.
Click to expand...
 
protegeric said:
thats wat i was gettin at... im a dummy and put in the 95 durometer, wish i had the 70 or 80 somethins. good for u gettin the 70 durometer. i thot WHAMbulance was funny... ehh...
Click to expand...

rep for wit (2thumbs) I appreciated that a lot more knowing it was a joke.
I can't even imagine what 95's feel like.

Anyone else worried about the next thing to go being their LSD? After all, that's where that stress is now being displaced to.
 
not me, it would be covered under warranty. I have a great service writer and I don't drag race the car or have anything else on my car except motor mounts which he wouldn't care because he wouldn't have to keep replacing them any longer so they would do it, hopefully, *fingers crossed*
 
I did the front sway bar today and had the rear motor mount all the way out and started reading this thread and decided to put the stock one back in cause I did not want all the vibration. The bolt going through the motor mount had to come out neway to do the sway bar but it still took me awhile to do the other 3 kick myself for that but o well. The way I did it was to first take out the bolt going through the mount and i had put a jack on the cross member and took all the bolts out required to lower it. After the crossmember is lowered the mount is not right up on the harness and you can get to the bolts pretty easy. I did not put the bottom bolt back in the harness connector so if I need to do the rear mount later like if it breaks i can.
 
Ok after reading all the post this time im very glad i didnt do the rear mount cause I had 70's and the guy with 70's was still saying it was bad whew. Also the 3 bolts on the mount once I could get the socket on them with the crossmember lowered it was cake with an impact it would of sucked if i had to do it by hand lol. If I did not have a impact or a friend with a impact I prob would pay some1 to do the job.
 
tried this today.
got the plastic bracket out with ease, and seeing as how this suppose to be the hard part, i thought i was home free.
Then i tried to get the nuts off the mount off, i was using a 18" long handle and i broke my 3/8" drive swivel joint. went to go get a new one, and still couldnt get it off. And i think i slightly stripped the nut closest to the engine, middle one. cant gett the socket on right now. Used quite a bid to liquid wrench on there too.

ANy suggestions would be great. Im going to get a 2 foot long breaker bar and a 1/2" drive swivel so hopefully that'll be stronger.

So anyone got any suggestions on how to get these nuts out, that would really help.

Thanks
 
sly mantis said:
tried this today.
got the plastic bracket out with ease, and seeing as how this suppose to be the hard part, i thought i was home free.
Then i tried to get the nuts off the mount off, i was using a 18" long handle and i broke my 3/8" drive swivel joint. went to go get a new one, and still couldnt get it off. And i think i slightly stripped the nut closest to the engine, middle one. cant gett the socket on right now. Used quite a bid to liquid wrench on there too.

ANy suggestions would be great. Im going to get a 2 foot long breaker bar and a 1/2" drive swivel so hopefully that'll be stronger.

So anyone got any suggestions on how to get these nuts out, that would really help.

Thanks
Click to expand...

It was the easy part for me cause I had a impact wrench. You will just need a strong breaker bar with maybe a long pipe over it to help and some strong sockets.
 
sly mantis said:
just so i know, i never removed teh front cross member.
Does this help access to the nuts at all?
Click to expand...

If you drop the cross member down it is much easier to get a socket on them.
 
To anybody that remebers what the mount looked like when they installed it, does the rear mount have one of the 3 holes (where the studs go into) that is bigger than the other 2? Is that normal or has my mount been screwed with?
 
Unispeed said:
To anybody that remebers what the mount looked like when they installed it, does the rear mount have one of the 3 holes (where the studs go into) that is bigger than the other 2? Is that normal or has my mount been screwed with?
Click to expand...

That is normal.
 
Ok thanks for the clarification... I will tacckle this install sometime in the next couple of weeks... if you see my car in the junkyard it means I got really mad and decided it was the best thing to do to keep from going insane...hehehe(crazy)


Laser03pro said:
That is normal.
Click to expand...
 
Is AWR rear mount in 70 durameter red rubber?

I received my rear AWR mount supposedly 70 durameter, except I'm worried because it's red rubber. Isn't "street" suppose to be black like my front Awr mount in 70 durameter

I called Cullen who told me yes it's 70 durameter but it's red to confuse you but don't worry he said. I'm still very worried, can someone please comfirm this for me because I won't attempt this difficult install and find out I installed an 80 or 95 durometer. Any way of knowing for sure what durameter you have?
 
Jaysanooch said:
I received my rear AWR mount supposedly 70 durameter, except I'm worried because it's red rubber. Isn't "street" suppose to be black like my front Awr mount in 70 durameter

I called Cullen who told me yes it's 70 durameter but it's red to confuse you but don't worry he said. I'm still very worried, can someone please comfirm this for me because I won't attempt this difficult install and find out I installed an 80 or 95 durometer. Any way of knowing for sure what durameter you have?
Click to expand...

I read that AWR switched to red for all durometers.
 
I installed my 70s. It still shakes so hard and vibes/rattles that i regret doing it. Then i drive hard and i don't... Nah. I still wouldn't do it again.

The reason for the soft/stock mounts - too many vibes/rattles and this was easier than redesigning the interior and the engine for smoothness!
 
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