How-To : AWR Rear Mount Install
- Thread starter gar777
- Start date
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
yeah figured it was due to a blown motor or upgrade. I seriously hope no one would go to that extreme just for a rear motor mount replacement.
NocturnalSpeed
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
Citizenpro and me just straight ended up breaking the hard plastic cover. We tryed to reach that 10mm for almost 2 hours, but ended up twisting the hell out of it till it broke. Then just tightened up the top 10mm which it stayed in place, fyi.
The middle bolt that slides into the mount was a pain also. After installing the front and passenger sides, the freaking engine didn't want to move one bit. Everytime we tryed to jack the engine up a small bit the whole car would lift.
Finally done, thank god.
Car vibrates pretty bad in the low rpms, but the car responses very nicely throught out the gears while driving. The short shifter w/ bushings help out a ton also. I'm loving the feel so far. Can't wait to actually push some decent power now.
The middle bolt that slides into the mount was a pain also. After installing the front and passenger sides, the freaking engine didn't want to move one bit. Everytime we tryed to jack the engine up a small bit the whole car would lift.
Finally done, thank god.
Car vibrates pretty bad in the low rpms, but the car responses very nicely throught out the gears while driving. The short shifter w/ bushings help out a ton also. I'm loving the feel so far. Can't wait to actually push some decent power now.
808mazdap5
Member
yeah i just put everything back together. worked on that one 10mm bolt on the plastic bracket and finally gave up. i just dont have the right tools at my house to get to it. maybe ill give it a try some other time. i took ucmp3s advice and took out my manifold to install it. had to to change the manifold gasket anyway so i figured id try. but yeah. FAIL
NocturnalSpeed
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
Damn the vibs! While washing my car yesterday I noticed that my front Mazda emblem was gone. I was like WTF? (boom01) I think or know for sure that it was the low rpm violent shakes that the car does everyonce in awhile. I'm a little pissed about it, because I need to figure out how to get another one. I hope Mazda still makes them.
FYI Lesson: Be aware of emblem in front after installing Motor Mounts. I just been PUNKED!
FYI Lesson: Be aware of emblem in front after installing Motor Mounts. I just been PUNKED!
CheeseHelmet
Member
I used this guide to replace my rear motor mount yesterday (with the tranny off the car), thanks to everyone who has posted thus far. I found the easiest way to get the plastic wire harness bracket off was to remove the EGR valve and use an air ratchet on those 10mm nuts.
I ended up using the following to remove the nuts holding the motor mount in place:
I ended up using the following to remove the nuts holding the motor mount in place:
wow this is a lot to tak in i just pulled my front mount last night and i filled it with rtv sealant cause the rubber part on the front side of the mount was not attached any more so i figure i'll just fill it and reinstall, i'm considering the rear mount but not sure cause this car is purely a daily driver and i want comfort first and formost for my long drives (1.5 - 2 hours each way for work 5 days a week) anyone know if the rtv sealant is comparitavely for durometer? and is the rear mount as week as the fron one? i took one look at that and was surprised it had torn the side mounts look beefy enough but that front one is a joke
CheeseHelmet
Member
That front one is very weak, the rear and tranny mounts are pretty strong. They won't rip unless you really abuse your car. The AWR front mount is stronger and feels better than the stock one so you might want to give that a shot (pick up a used one from the FS section so you don't have to break it in yourself).
Ty07allstar
Member
- :
- 03 Protege ES
Does anyone have any advice for me on installing the other three mounts? I just got them today so I'm hopefully going to install them tomorrow. Do I need to support the engine while doing any of these mounts? If so where? I heard a block of wood with a jack on the oil pan works? Please chime in and help me out. Thanks
CheeseHelmet
Member
You don't need to support anything to change the front one, the other two require good support. You could use a block of wood+jack under the oil pan but only if your pan is in decent shape; mine was rusty and it developed a small crack after using it to support the engine. The best thing to get is an engine support bar, harbor freight sells them but I'm sure you can rent one somewhere.
I recently bought all four AWR mounts, 88 duro. So far the front and rear are installed with torn passenger and driver mounts. Cabin vibration is really noticeable at idle and vibrates really loud when giving the car gas to accelerate out of first. This is annoying, but the response of the car with just the front and rear mount installed is so much better. No lag time, and shifting is much more smoother. After I the driver and passenger mount are installed I will give a review again!
mexicansoljah81
Member
- :
- '13 Mazdaspeed3
i got same issue already on my 3rd front mount. they are weak as heck. I need the awr ones asap. But might have to wait for me to get back from Afghanistan. This sucks. I will be thinking about it the whole time. FML!
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
some great memories related to this install...which was 2003 for me...still have the same 94 front and rear AWR mounts over 120,000 miles later...no noticeable problems, even though the car still shakes like a UPS truck at low rpm...
Anyway though, this is one of those things that is only really hard the first time you do it...that mounting position for that plastic harness bracket thing is single handedly the worst design feature i've found on this car in nearly 11 years of ownership. I never even mounted mine back on...its so tight anyway there was never any need to have it bolted to the firewall...and considering the two studs can literally be bent off with your bare hands, its not like it was helping anything to begin with.
I'll be pulling the engine/gearbox as one unit this winter to replace the clutch...might put some lower durometer urethane in these from AWR, since i'm sure the current mounts are wearing out (i'd think so, anyway)...but overall the strength and quality so far has been amazing...
Anyway though, this is one of those things that is only really hard the first time you do it...that mounting position for that plastic harness bracket thing is single handedly the worst design feature i've found on this car in nearly 11 years of ownership. I never even mounted mine back on...its so tight anyway there was never any need to have it bolted to the firewall...and considering the two studs can literally be bent off with your bare hands, its not like it was helping anything to begin with.
I'll be pulling the engine/gearbox as one unit this winter to replace the clutch...might put some lower durometer urethane in these from AWR, since i'm sure the current mounts are wearing out (i'd think so, anyway)...but overall the strength and quality so far has been amazing...
After reading this whole thread, i might actually just pay the dealership to do the mount, and i think Im pretty handy wrenching on cars. Done a few motor swaps on fourth gen fbodies and so.
Does having a motor hoist help any? I might try it, but will be very pissed if this takes me over 4hrs, lol. Does having a lift help also?
Does having a motor hoist help any? I might try it, but will be very pissed if this takes me over 4hrs, lol. Does having a lift help also?
