How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

[Dr_Watson]

Since when do manufacturers state MPG figures that are accurate for every day driving. I think Mazda are one of the most honest as their TV adverts clearly say that mpg figures are from laboratory testing and wont match real driving results.

Even with the magic of Skyactive, I will eat my arm if every day driving returns 62 mpg!

 

[Geoff]

Since when do manufacturers state MPG figures that are accurate for every day driving. I think Mazda are one of the most honest as their TV adverts clearly say that mpg figures are from laboratory testing and wont match real driving results.

Even with the magic of Skyactive, I will eat my arm if every day driving returns 62 mpg!

My last car was a Volvo, the mpg figure issued for it was 38, I achieved 34 on average.
The CX5 is supposed to do 54 and on average I achieve 35.
My driving style has not changed.
I consider Mazda's claims on consumption to be totally inaccurate and misleading, whereas another car companies printed figures, whilst not achievable, are a lot closer to the truth than those issued by Mazda.

 

[Dr_Watson]

Well its 1 MPG better, stop moaning! Just kidding

Like I said before, I can achieve the figures, but you really need to set out and drive very carefully to do so. Its a shame its like that but its what I was expecting.

 

[Perusal]

I have never had a car which varied from the official figures so far before. My previous Jaguar XF had a quoted 32 mpg urban, 42 combined and I could achieve an average of 36 mpg with no trouble whatsoever. Prior to that my BMW 330d quoted something akin to 34 and 44 and a real life figure of 40 was easily achievable.

The CX5 is the first car where I have to drive like an angel to even achieve the urban figure of 52.

The manufacturers state that these are test figures, give the caveat that these may not represent real life , and that they should be used for comparison purposes only. The fact is if you look at various websites such as Honest John or What Car you will see that different manufacturers achieve different levels of accuracy. I think What Car gives a true figure of 78% of the quoted urban figure on average for the CX5. Not the worst of the various car manufacturers but certainly not good.

I believe this is a case of the OEMs setting their cars up for the lab test and some doing it better than others I.e. Mazda are better than many at achieving an unrealistically high number. (Ford are the best! - ie theirs are the most unrealistic figures)

At the end of the day however there is plenty of data out there now to compare your CX5 against and at a 45-48mpg average for my 2.2 150 2WD I seem to be getting what most people are getting. Not much use to the early adopters I know but it still ranks pretty much the best mpg for similar Crossovers most of which struggle to better 40mpg.

 

[xtrailman]

The way the government figures were calculated for older cars was different.

Back then I found the combined figure was achievable on a run.

 

[Pluvia Plumbum]

In reply to some of the Posters, do remember that your average figures will be affected by the DPF regenerations which naturally Mazda would have avoided in the official tests which are only over a very short distance. I find that between Regen cycles the MPG is actually pretty good, but once you include the Regen it brings it down to about 40mpg ish depending how I drive. Not sure if any of the cars you are comparing with the CX5 had DPF's or not. PP

 

[xtrailman]

Went to start the car today and wasn't surprised to find the car failed to turn over, plug in voltmeter only showing 11volts

For the first time since I bought a power pack some 4 years ago, it finally got used!
Car started first time after connecting it, but on the two hours drive plus to Newcastle, l still wasn't happy that the battery charge voltage was high enough.

Anyway once at Newcastle I booked the car into Hodgson mazda dealer.
Very impressed with this dealer.

Technician came back after checking out the car and confirmed a low battery charge, apparently at some time the battery had been disconnected but hadn't been reinitialised, so it was seeing a part charged battery as 100% charged.

Since the reinitialisation the charging volts are noticeably higher, so I am confident the problem is fixed.

Regarding the milage on the trip, today a strong wind coming from the side and front.
Reset average reading and saw it showing 55mpg, down to 37.5mpg, over the trip, ending on a final 40.5mpg.

So not great, I get more driving locally, speeds on trip no more than 80mph due to wind and traffic.

 

[jack526]

DRLs

(I think this has been raised before but can't find the topic)
Is there a way, via a dealer or otherwise, to have the accessory Daytime Running Lights stay on when using side or headlights?
I would find this helpful in miserable weather when the sensors don't consider it dark enough to kick-in the headlights but I would feel happier with the rear lights on at the same time as the DRLs.

 

[BluSmoke]

(I think this has been raised before but can't find the topic)
Is there a way, via a dealer or otherwise, to have the accessory Daytime Running Lights stay on when using side or headlights?
I would find this helpful in miserable weather when the sensors don't consider it dark enough to kick-in the headlights but I would feel happier with the rear lights on at the same time as the DRLs.

I too would like this option.
I think its a little annoying for other drivers to see my DRL LEDs turn off every time I pull up at a junction and apply the handbrake, then flash back on when I release to pull away.
Surely that's more distracting that permanently on!

 

[ColinX-5]

I too would like this option.
I think its a little annoying for other drivers to see my DRL LEDs turn off every time I pull up at a junction and apply the handbrake, then flash back on when I release to pull away.
Surely that's more distracting that permanently on!

Yes I agree, and lots of cars have them on with the head lights.

 

[xtrailman]

Obviously not fixed car is still showing low volts.
Took it into another garage locally, chap checked battery declared it ok and said book the car in for tests.

I jumped into the car and it failed to start again!, pleased that it failed at the garage, and they had to jump start me, they have seen the problem first hand.
But disappointed the issue is still progressing.

Car booked into dealer for next Tuesday.

Went to start the car today and wasn't surprised to find the car failed to turn over, plug in voltmeter only showing 11volts

For the first time since I bought a power pack some 4 years ago, it finally got used!
Car started first time after connecting it, but on the two hours drive plus to Newcastle, l still wasn't happy that the battery charge voltage was high enough.

Anyway once at Newcastle I booked the car into Hodgson mazda dealer.
Very impressed with this dealer.

Technician came back after checking out the car and confirmed a low battery charge, apparently at some time the battery had been disconnected but hadn't been reinitialised, so it was seeing a part charged battery as 100% charged.

Since the reinitialisation the charging volts are noticeably higher, so I am confident the problem is fixed.

Regarding the milage on the trip, today a strong wind coming from the side and front.
Reset average reading and saw it showing 55mpg, down to 37.5mpg, over the trip, ending on a final 40.5mpg.

So not great, I get more driving locally, speeds on trip no more than 80mph due to wind and traffic.

 

[Colpart]

It doesn't have to be a bumpy road now that the temperature has dropped. Mine is like a tin of nails for 30 mins or so and it is all along the dash. It is going in for 2 days next week to try and solve it - I will keep you posted.

Well, they had the car for 2 days and did nothing for the first day and a half. When they tried it from cold it reproduced the rattle so they started to strip it down and came to the conclusion that it is the heater vents which are fastened to the dash and they believe are loose. So it goes back in next week for 2 more days and hopefully a cure this time.

 

[Applauso]

Well, they had the car for 2 days and did nothing for the first day and a half. When they tried it from cold it reproduced the rattle so they started to strip it down and came to the conclusion that it is the heater vents which are fastened to the dash and they believe are loose. So it goes back in next week for 2 more days and hopefully a cure this time.

Did you show them the 2 TSB's for the North American Market which In my opinion will fix the rattle.

 

[Pluvia Plumbum]

Just finished fitting a pair of rear the Tailor-made Rear Mudflaps, which will help keep the crud off the rear bumper now winter has arrived.! Slightly fiddly job but rather keep my own cash than pay the stealers to fit them for me.

 

[Colpart]

Did you show them the 2 TSB's for the North American Market which In my opinion will fix the rattle.

It had those done last year and they made no difference.

 

[Dr_Watson]

Any of you oil burner drivers out there noticed that the high revs on start seems to be a rare occurrence now? The weather is colder here, around ten below, and i have not had the high revs since the warmer months, all seems a little ironic!

 

[ColinX-5]

Yes I have noticed that, but it has not been ten below here -2 the lowest

 

[Dr_Watson]

I had the high revs on every morning start in summer, when temps were around 20, now never! See if it comes back after winter.

 

[xtrailman]

Guess what I'm the same, normal starts, then today as its hit 11 degrees C high revs start.

Thiers things about this car that are totally illogical, the other one on my car is the way the battery volts stay low after starting.

Mines going into the garage tomorrow for tests, I'm not holding my breath.

 

[dad of jon]

Our first service was 206, which seemed reasonable-ish.

I've just had a ring round two other local dealers, and was quoted 179 and 226 (compared with the original 342 price). All claim it's the two year 25K service with any oils and consumables included.

I'll give the original dealer a call to see why the price is so high - I fully expect them to say 'oh, we must have made a mistake' and then drop the price. Much the same way insurance companies do when your renewal quote comes through and in five minutes on compare the market you've knocked 30% off...(rolleyes)

Just been quoted 145 all inclusive for 1st years service, so not big shocks with that.

just had 8 year service on my daihatsu 315 with mot new disks & pads. It normally comes in at around 120-150 so the mazda's around the same price as the Daihatsu and a bit cheaper than the Kia Carens it replaced. So far the running costs (just renewed the VED for 30) including insurance have been great. Perhaps not looking forward to replacing tyres as my old car had 205/16's and the Mazda's will be a bit dearer being on 17" wheels.