Homemade torsion bar.
- Thread starter Clod_King
- Start date
I figured this would come up. I don't want to argue, but would like to discuss bolt grades. For this application, IMO, grade 5 is sufficient (esp since I used 1/2" bolts), and perhaps better than grade 8. Adding tensile strength to a bolt is not always the best thing to do, and since this piece is constantly flexing and moving, ductility is valued. I've seen a lot of people pour money into higher grade bolts, and sometimes they're worse for the application, and almost never necessary.
Now, on connecting pieces (IE: upright to strut), grade 8 is smart, and I agree 100% - but we only care about tensile strength and shear, so I've even put an AN grade or F9.11 grade bolt in there on some cars.
tl:dr version - spend some time to pick the right hardware, not the more expensive stuff.
After a few shots of your truck, i figured you'd know what unistrut is. Want to chop off a 22" length and do a back to back comparison for me?Unistrut!Neat idea.
Now I learned something new about tensile strength vs ductility according to application. Thanks!
Now that you have brought that up, it does make a bit more sense when you put it under that perspective. That and its not essentially an operation critical part where if it breaks off, the whole car may vault sort of deal. The worst that could happen is that you either lose the stiffening characteristic since one bolt has broken to loosing the whole bar which is just mere dollars to free scrap. Will agree that the strut to spindle bolt should be grade 8 since the forces experienced by these parts exceed what any normal bolt can take. That and maintaining clamping forces with static friction(correct me here) is what keeps the whole thing together.
Now that you have brought that up, it does make a bit more sense when you put it under that perspective. That and its not essentially an operation critical part where if it breaks off, the whole car may vault sort of deal. The worst that could happen is that you either lose the stiffening characteristic since one bolt has broken to loosing the whole bar which is just mere dollars to free scrap. Will agree that the strut to spindle bolt should be grade 8 since the forces experienced by these parts exceed what any normal bolt can take. That and maintaining clamping forces with static friction(correct me here) is what keeps the whole thing together.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
F9.11 grade?
John
John
skullsroad
Member
- :
- Mazda 2
Got pictures of this installed?
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