High compression build?

Ummm, More like I have over $10,000 invested in my transmission...

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I was really just implying that if someone is going to invest 10 grand in the engine/turbo and a standalone then it would be wise to invest in the transmission as its the weak spot. I really didnt mean you personally since you obviously built a superb transmission, not surprisingly since you over engineered pretty much everything on that car!
 
The problem isnt making the 200 hp its getting it to the wheels thats the problem cause of our trannys.Our trannys have about a 10 percent power loss for whatever reason and the b series trannys have like 5 percent Hondas dont lose that much power through the tranny like 5 or 10 horsepower while ours lose almost 15hp to 20 hp.With a good build with slightly oversized ze pistons,alot of headwork like i did with ze cams,full port and polish on head and intake manifold,head shaved with a less thick cosmetic headgasket,like i am planning on doing and with a good tune or mp3 ecu,headers,and intake you'll reach 200 hp like nothing but you'll only get like 175 to the wheels but hey when compared to 110whp the motor makes stock that is not bad at all :)

No you wont. Not even close.

EDIT: reread 200hp at the fly yes, but will be about 148 at the wheels :)
 
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The problem isnt making the 200 hp its getting it to the wheels thats the problem cause of our trannys.Our trannys have about a 10 percent power loss for whatever reason and the b series trannys have like 5 percent Hondas dont lose that much power through the tranny like 5 or 10 horsepower while ours lose almost 15hp to 20 hp.With a good build with slightly oversized ze pistons,alot of headwork like i did with ze cams,full port and polish on head and intake manifold,head shaved with a less thick cosmetic headgasket,like i am planning on doing and with a good tune or mp3 ecu,headers,and intake you'll reach 200 hp like nothing but you'll only get like 175 to the wheels but hey when compared to 110whp the motor makes stock that is not bad at all :)

Wow, where did those numbers come from? Honda manuals almost always lose about 15% on the front wheel drive platforms, almost 20% on the rear wheel drives... well, at least the ones with the engines in the front. :)
 
Yeah our cars lose between 20-35% pending on dyno from what ive seen.

That's insane... looks like I need to put the 5 onto the dyno the next time I have it near the shop. Maybe our cars are related to the last Mercury Cougar that lost 30% through its transmission?
 
maybe ill yank my motor out after its boosted and put it on an engine dyno put it back in and dyno it so we can get a true number on % lost.
 
200 whp can be reliable as long as you have a good tune and the right supporting mods on a stock fs-det. The MSP I owned ran a 14.1@99.6 mph with a fmic, exhaust mods, ss afc, and a manual boost controller at 10 psi. If my calculations are right this should be over 200 whp. I'm guessing that if you already have a fs-de that is in good condition, you could get 200 whp for around $2000 if you find a used turbo kit, more than double that if you buy a new kit. Not only will the turbo make more HP but it will have loads more torque. win win. Just make sure to use a wideband o2 and don't run too lean or too rich, too lean and you can easily blow up and too rich will slowly wear out the cylinder walls and piston rings.
 
200 whp can be reliable as long as you have a good tune and the right supporting mods on a stock fs-det. The MSP I owned ran a 14.1@99.6 mph with a fmic, exhaust mods, ss afc, and a manual boost controller at 10 psi. If my calculations are right this should be over 200 whp. I'm guessing that if you already have a fs-de that is in good condition, you could get 200 whp for around $2000 if you find a used turbo kit, more than double that if you buy a new kit. Not only will the turbo make more HP but it will have loads more torque. win win. Just make sure to use a wideband o2 and don't run too lean or too rich, too lean and you can easily blow up and too rich will slowly wear out the cylinder walls and piston rings.

Why are you talking about about turboing? And what calculations lol :p
 
Other people were talking about turbos so I was just adding my two cents. Anyways, turbo = win. More power and less expensive, if done right it can be just as reliable as NA (at the same power levels). There are calculators online that use 1/4 mile time or trap speed and vehicle weight to determine HP.
 
Other people were talking about turbos so I was just adding my two cents. Anyways, turbo = win. More power and less expensive, if done right it can be just as reliable as NA (at the same power levels). There are calculators online that use 1/4 mile time or trap speed and vehicle weight to determine HP.

Too inaccurate, relies on too many variables. NA IMO is better for touge type stuff.
 
Other people were talking about turbos so I was just adding my two cents. Anyways, turbo = win. More power and less expensive, if done right it can be just as reliable as NA (at the same power levels). There are calculators online that use 1/4 mile time or trap speed and vehicle weight to determine HP.
The only "turbo" talk in this NA thread was someone who is turboed talking about removing an engine to see crank HP VS WHP, that's it. The turbo part doesn't even matter since we are talking percentage loss...
 
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