hey everyone, i need your advice because i am installing my obx header this weekend, i have never done it before. and i have readed the how-to on how to install it, and it seems pretty easy and straight forward and i alredy got the spark plug non fouler ready so i can put it on so i wont have the CEL problem. does any one have any advice they can give me that might make the job easier or any it advice that will help me to make sure i am installing it right, i would apreatiated if guys can help me out..
header advice..>>>
- Thread starter zoom-zoom
- Start date
- :
- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
#1 PB BLASTER FOR HEADER TO MIDPIPE BOLTS...And let it soak, re-apply, and let it soak some more...for about an hour...
-Anti-sieze on the header bolts.
-Don't over-torque
-When aligning and and threading the EGR tube to the header, leave the header bolts somewhat loose to allow for some adjustment and fitament issues...After you have the EGR started on the header...Tighten the header bolts..Personally I chose from the inside out...
-If things get really hairy with the EGR, be ready to pull the intake out entirely and loosen the EGR tube from the Intake Manifold...This is sometimes an issue and sometimes absolutely nothing of a problem...Just be prepared...
-Bringing the header up from under the car may be easier, with someone helping, than dropping it in from the top...
-Have a couple twist ties to secure the O2 wires away from excessive heat.
-Before you start revving the engine and listening to the sweetness of the exhaust...Wipe the entire header down with an degreaser...like rubbing alchohol, or something...That way it will get a nice patina...not all fingered up...and it will help prevent rusting in the future from contaminants.
-Anti-sieze on the header bolts.
-Don't over-torque
-When aligning and and threading the EGR tube to the header, leave the header bolts somewhat loose to allow for some adjustment and fitament issues...After you have the EGR started on the header...Tighten the header bolts..Personally I chose from the inside out...
-If things get really hairy with the EGR, be ready to pull the intake out entirely and loosen the EGR tube from the Intake Manifold...This is sometimes an issue and sometimes absolutely nothing of a problem...Just be prepared...
-Bringing the header up from under the car may be easier, with someone helping, than dropping it in from the top...
-Have a couple twist ties to secure the O2 wires away from excessive heat.
-Before you start revving the engine and listening to the sweetness of the exhaust...Wipe the entire header down with an degreaser...like rubbing alchohol, or something...That way it will get a nice patina...not all fingered up...and it will help prevent rusting in the future from contaminants.
Last edited:
Instead of messing with the intake because of the egr you can always just remove the brace/bracket on the right side of the head (near the rear engine lift loop I think) thats holding it in place and it will give you alittle more room to work with it. I would suggest getting it bolted to the midpipe first(most of the way tight), then attaching the egr valve, and then do the other bolts and fully tighten up the bottom last. As for putting it in from the bottom instead of the top... its so much easier to just remove the 2 fan bolts and drop it in from the top as they do in the how-to, I did my whole header install without jacking the car up. Other than that follow the how-to and the advice in the previous post and you will be just fine.
Last edited:
thanks guys for the advice there all gonna help out.. i am putting them on this saturday i'll take pics.. i plan to jack up the car, it seems easier and the pb blaster is a good idea seens the bolts are most likely rusted i didnt think of that but i am gonna try it.. and also should i use the gasket that came with the header or use the stock one thats in the car now???
Last edited:
- :
- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
Use the new one...I added a nice layer of gasket sealer to it, to just make sure it was sealed well.
Cellerator
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 3i Skyactiv Hatchback
You may also want to get a gasket that fits between the header and exhaust just incase you can't get the old 1 off of the stock header. When I installed mine, no matter how hard I tried, the thing was stuck on and basically sealed to the header so lucky for me I had a friend help me get to the dealer to buy the part, unfortunately I don't remember the part number so you'll have to get some other advice from the others. Oh, good luck and enjoy,
Cellerator said:You may also want to get a gasket that fits between the header and exhaust just incase you can't get the old 1 off of the stock header. When I installed mine, no matter how hard I tried, the thing was stuck on and basically sealed to the header so lucky for me I had a friend help me get to the dealer to buy the part, unfortunately I don't remember the part number so you'll have to get some other advice from the others. Oh, good luck and enjoy,
agreed, mine was stuck on there pretty good and I destroyed it trying to get it off. it's called a donut gasket, about $15 from the dealership.
Yeah definitely put the springbolts on the bottom first. Then screw on EGR pipe (not tight)
Then push whole thing onto engine block and screw in bolts on engine block.
Tighten EGR pipe bolt.
Tighten engine block bolts.
Done.
I agree with the others as well. If you have a mid-high mileage P5, it'll be a b**** to get the springbolts off.
Then push whole thing onto engine block and screw in bolts on engine block.
Tighten EGR pipe bolt.
Tighten engine block bolts.
Done.
I agree with the others as well. If you have a mid-high mileage P5, it'll be a b**** to get the springbolts off.
