H&R coilover install/review.
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I meant the springs. I don't see how you can adjust the height without any thread like the pair on the left.
A couple Questions about camber links:
I've got this set being shipped to me as I type this...
"you'll have to get camber links/plates if you want more flexibility with your camber settings."
1. Where do the Camber links actually go?
2. You said I would need them if I wanted to go lower. That being said if I change from a summer set up, to a winter one (thus raising the car up) would I have to remove the camber links as well? (Do they ONLY function properly when the car is lowered?)
3. I've seen two different versions of them. 1: the Solid red ones branded Mazdaspeed. The other: Black ones that look to have an adjustable link at the end of it. Since those SEEM to be adjustable, would those be better for someone in my situation that would be dramatically changing the ride height?
Thanks in advance for the advice- and for already doing this Review.
I've got this set being shipped to me as I type this...
"you'll have to get camber links/plates if you want more flexibility with your camber settings."
1. Where do the Camber links actually go?
2. You said I would need them if I wanted to go lower. That being said if I change from a summer set up, to a winter one (thus raising the car up) would I have to remove the camber links as well? (Do they ONLY function properly when the car is lowered?)
3. I've seen two different versions of them. 1: the Solid red ones branded Mazdaspeed. The other: Black ones that look to have an adjustable link at the end of it. Since those SEEM to be adjustable, would those be better for someone in my situation that would be dramatically changing the ride height?
Thanks in advance for the advice- and for already doing this Review.
The Camber links are actually camber arms for the rear:
Those are the mazdaspeed ones, which aren't adjustable. SPC makes some that are so that you could adjust it to your needs (winter/summer with alignment)
The rings at the bottom of the pic are for the rear springs. They are height adjustable.
- :
- 2002 Honda S2000
don't have any shots of the coilovers installed, i can take a couple shots next time i'm under the car. everything is oriented the same as the stock setup. the H&R rear springs sit in the same position as the stock springs(which are seperate from the struts in the rear) except that they are shorter, progressive, and have an adjustable upper perch as seen in the first photo.
so, the rear spring perch goes up into the rear subframe? i guess that answers my question, then. i have a mazda5, and i am interested in these or the mazdaspeed coilovers. the rear springs on the 5 are almost too big for the rear subframe, and when the rear end really compresses, the spring contacts the subframe and makes a god awful sound. if the spring perch goes up into the subframe (as opposed to locating on the control arm) that might aleviate my situation.
still, if you can get some pics, that would be great.
Ooh! Got it now.. Thanks for clearing that up.
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- 2002 Honda S2000
haven't had a chance to track the new setup. not going to be at the track very often, so it's more important that it be functional for a DD and regular spirited outings!
going to take some detailed photos of the coilovers on the car. but as far as the brake line is concerned... it is threaded through the bracket, but i can't quite get it in position to attach the clip that holds it in place. even though it's just sort of resting in the bracket i don't think it's going to pop out by itself. it's just not secured the way it is intended to be.
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- 2002 Honda S2000
no problem... i'll post up the tq specs with some new photos.
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- 2002 Honda S2000
here are some shots of the installed setup and torque specs.
the passenger side front. there is a good half inch of thread remaining under the two locking rings where it could be lowered further. but you can see how close the ABS bracket is to the bottom of the threads. when the rings are in the lowest position the ABS bracket does not fit over the endlink tab as it should(endlink and ABS bracket share a tab). on the bottom right hand side of the strut body you can see the brake line dangling under the brake line bracket. the brake line is threaded through the hole in the bracket but the steel sleeve on the brake line does not reach far enough into the bracket to be secured with the clip. not a big deal, just doesn't quite fit correctly. you can see the tip of the silver lower strut bolt sticking out on the lower left.
endlink/ABS nut = 30-40 ft/lb
lower strut bolt = 40-54 ft/lb
looking up at the front passenger side. H&R includes the dust boot, otherwise all OEM upper perch/mount/hardware except for the bump stop is reused.
top side of the front strut. very important that the center 19mm strut nut be torqued correctly. jack up the bottom of the strut slightly to make sure it's all the way in position. then you have to hold the upper strut body in place while torquing the nut. if you don't hold the strut it just spins in place the nut goes nowhere.
three upper mount bolts = 14-21 ft/lb
center strut nut = 42-56 ft/lb
rear spring. pinched between between crossmember and lower arm, same as stock setup. you can see the threaded upper perch sticking down inside the spring. could go down maybe 1/8" further. i loosened but did not remove the lower arm inner bolt(seen in the background pointing toward the exhaust) to ease the install. stock spring perch is not used.
lower arm inner bolt = 59-74 ft/lb
strut in the background. lower arm outer bolt on the lower left.
lower strut mount bolt = 56-75 ft/lb
lower arm outer bolt = 56-75 ft/lb
rear upper strut perch. reuse all OEM parts on this. perch, bump stop, dust boot. center nut at the top of the strut is on the other side of the perch. you have to torque it before installing the strut.
two upper perch nuts = 16-21 ft/lb
center strut nut = (oddly, could not find the specs for this. guessing it's in the 25-40 ft/lb range.)
used thread lock on all bolts during install and after a week or two break in period went back and retorqued all bolts/nuts. whew... i'm sure i missed something there! feel free to ask.
the passenger side front. there is a good half inch of thread remaining under the two locking rings where it could be lowered further. but you can see how close the ABS bracket is to the bottom of the threads. when the rings are in the lowest position the ABS bracket does not fit over the endlink tab as it should(endlink and ABS bracket share a tab). on the bottom right hand side of the strut body you can see the brake line dangling under the brake line bracket. the brake line is threaded through the hole in the bracket but the steel sleeve on the brake line does not reach far enough into the bracket to be secured with the clip. not a big deal, just doesn't quite fit correctly. you can see the tip of the silver lower strut bolt sticking out on the lower left.
endlink/ABS nut = 30-40 ft/lb
lower strut bolt = 40-54 ft/lb
looking up at the front passenger side. H&R includes the dust boot, otherwise all OEM upper perch/mount/hardware except for the bump stop is reused.
top side of the front strut. very important that the center 19mm strut nut be torqued correctly. jack up the bottom of the strut slightly to make sure it's all the way in position. then you have to hold the upper strut body in place while torquing the nut. if you don't hold the strut it just spins in place the nut goes nowhere.
three upper mount bolts = 14-21 ft/lb
center strut nut = 42-56 ft/lb
rear spring. pinched between between crossmember and lower arm, same as stock setup. you can see the threaded upper perch sticking down inside the spring. could go down maybe 1/8" further. i loosened but did not remove the lower arm inner bolt(seen in the background pointing toward the exhaust) to ease the install. stock spring perch is not used.
lower arm inner bolt = 59-74 ft/lb
strut in the background. lower arm outer bolt on the lower left.
lower strut mount bolt = 56-75 ft/lb
lower arm outer bolt = 56-75 ft/lb
rear upper strut perch. reuse all OEM parts on this. perch, bump stop, dust boot. center nut at the top of the strut is on the other side of the perch. you have to torque it before installing the strut.
two upper perch nuts = 16-21 ft/lb
center strut nut = (oddly, could not find the specs for this. guessing it's in the 25-40 ft/lb range.)
used thread lock on all bolts during install and after a week or two break in period went back and retorqued all bolts/nuts. whew... i'm sure i missed something there! feel free to ask.
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- :
- 2007 MS3
I think I would be lining that one clip the brake line is not quite fitting in to with a bit of rubber bushing material or something. I really don't like the way that rubber brake line is in contact with that bare metal.
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- 2002 Honda S2000
that's probably a good idea, maybe i'll think about a solution. how much do you think the brake line moves around?
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- 2007 MS3
It doesn't take much. A short repetitive movement will eventually wear through that line rubbing against the bare metal of that clip.
Not questioning your installation, but have you checked to ensure the strut is sitting all the way down on the collar of the lower control arm? In the first pic it looks like it's at a slight angle? Probably just the photo. BUT, that might account for you having to "pull" the brake line to make it fit. Just a thought...
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- 2002 Honda S2000
please, question my install! i'm not a professional... just a normal guy who loves working on my car and figuring things out. plus, there were no instructions! the whole point of this thread is to encourage discussion.
there is a fin on the back of the strut that goes into a slot on the lower mount. it only fits one way and it's impossible to rotate the strut body in order to effect the position of the brake line bracket. the strut seems to be all the way down in the lower mount collar. it's possible that it needs to go further, but it would only be a matter of millimeters... probably not enough to make the brake line reach. i'm going to look at it again and compare it to the stock strut to see what the difference is or if i'm just screwing it up some how!
