Fluid Maintenance Transfer-case beware

Yeah, nothing I want to do anymore. I think the fluid change in this should not be an issue. Takes .56L of fluid. Drain as much as you can, measure it and add the same back. Do it again later. I think the idea that this is dangerous is a myth and a way for us to purchase new transfer cases. I am ordering up some Motul gear oil 75W-140 GL5 for the transfer case, it's done great in my rear diff. Still nice and golden to this day. Screw it. as long as it is not over filled or under it should be just fine.
 
Alfissimoint. said:
Yeah, nothing I want to do anymore. I think the fluid change in this should not be an issue. Takes .56L of fluid. Drain as much as you can, measure it and add the same back. Do it again later. I think the idea that this is dangerous is a myth and a way for us to purchase new transfer cases. I am ordering up some Motul gear oil 75W-140 GL5 for the transfer case, it's done great in my rear diff. Still nice and golden to this day. Screw it. as long as it is not over filled or under it should be just fine.
Click to expand...

(thumb) Sounds like a good plan! I'll have to keep this in mind in 20k miles...
 
Alfissimoint. said:
Yeah, nothing I want to do anymore. I think the fluid change in this should not be an issue. Takes .56L of fluid. Drain as much as you can, measure it and add the same back. Do it again later. I think the idea that this is dangerous is a myth and a way for us to purchase new transfer cases. I am ordering up some Motul gear oil 75W-140 GL5 for the transfer case, it's done great in my rear diff. Still nice and golden to this day. Screw it. as long as it is not over filled or under it should be just fine.
Click to expand...


I'm assuming changing the front transfer case oil for our CX-9 will be similar to what's shown here below for a BMW rear differential with no drain plug ?

 
UPDATE: This past weekend I got under the car again, and when I removed the drain plug I could still feel that something was blocking half of the opening. Since I was not able to suck anything out of the transfer case, I decided to at least add a little bit of fresh fluid. I saw some gear oil liberally sprayed on the sway bar and on the body around the transfer case, so I figured I'd add 4 oz. I used a gear oil pump (similar to the shampoo bottle pump) and a clear tube (I think it's 3/8).

If someone can describe in more details how to suck the old fluid out, I would sure appreciate it. Thanks!

just_phil said:
Hi, need some help from those who have been able to suck the fluid out. I got the drain plug out, but when I stuck my finger in the hole, I could feel that about half the opening was blocked by something inside the case. I then tried to insert a 5/16 tube in the opening, but it would only go in about 2 inches, and nothing could be sucked out. Do I just need to move the car a few inches? Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Asked Mazda dealers in SF bay area,
Oak Tree Mazda: "not service-able!" (yeah, right!)
Fremont Mazda: "We can do that for $159".
Did not check others. Will go to Fremont Mazda this Friday.
Disappointed about Oak Tree. I have been doing services there since new.
Just FYI for owners in this region.
 
Back from Fremont Mazda.
Visited there, waited for 30 mins, the service adviser came back and said that he made a mistake.
He thought CX9 is the same as CX7 (which has a drain plug).
I told him that it is possible to such the fluid out. Not a big deal.
He refused to do it. Wasted my time and his time.

I have not found any Mazda dealer in SF Bay Are willing to do this job.

This morning, I took it to an indie shop, whose owner I have known for many years.
He lifted the car up, and tried hard to convince me that I should not even worry about it.
I showed him the threads on this forum. He thinks that all gear oils are smelly and dirty.
He believes that as long as there is no leaking, I should keep it as it is and make sure all four tires are similarly inflated.
No work done. No charge either.

I am stuck unless I do it myself.
 
For anyone who is thinking of a DIY for the transfer case fluid I thought I'd share my experience with the job. I just did it this AM.

It's easier to work from the rear and over the cross member to get to the plug on the transfer case.
I draped a rag over the exhaust and the cross member to keep any spills to a minimum.
To drain the unit I used my oil extractor (used on marine engines and some German cars with no drain plugs). That unit came with some very thin tubes designed to fit down a oil dipstick tube. Using the thinnest one and coming in over the top from the rear I was able to get that to the bottom of the transfer case and pumped out all the fluid.
From there it was easy to pump back in the new fluid (Royal Purple purchased on Amazon) until it started to spill out.
Re-installed the plug and took a test drive.

All good and there was no mess to speak of. The stuff that came out at just 25,000 miles on my 2012 was 'not good' as others have stated here. I am glad I did the job and I'll be doiing it again at 50,000. Maybe the improved fluid will hold up better, only time will tell.

Hope this helps some others who choose to take on this job. It's something I would strongly recommend.
 
would it be possible if you can tell us what brand the oil extractor is and where did you buy it? also can you post a pic of the extractor.
 
Pela Oil Extractor - with a pic

Sure, the brand I use is a Pela Oil Extractor. I use the thinnest drain tube that came with it, it comes with 3 different sizes. The picture here shows how the tubes are configured. Most marine stores sell them as the common use is for oil changes on boats. However, I also use it for many of the oil changes on my vehicles. On newer models with the oil filters on the top of the engines it makes the job so much easier. I have certainly got good value for the money I spent on the unit.
 

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Good to hear the extractor worked. I have a similar one for my boat and was planning on giving it a shot when I did my transfer case.
 
Sounds great. One thing I should mention is to have the fluid as warm as you can handle when pumping it out. It's a bit thinner that way and the pump has an easier time with it. If it's cold just let the pump do its thing longer and when it's sucking air you know you're done.
 
Thanks for the tips and update @rowlands57. Along with @avidien's recent fluid swap, this is definitely routine/necessary maintenance it seems. Also thanks for mentioning an extractor that works for you, as I'm looking for one that is simple and keeps the mess down. For those interested, I found it on Amazon by searching "Pela Oil Extractor":
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
Anytime you're changing fluids you should be doing it on a warm vehicle. This applies to engines, transmissions, transfer case and diffs. Wait long enough for the exhaust pipes to get below flesh melting temps but not so long that all the fluids go back to their poor flowing cold state.

The only thing I can think of that you wouldn't want to do warm is coolant since that system is under pressure when hot and you never want to open a hot radiator cap.
 
poor man's electric Mityvac $21 to suck out old transfer case oil

voldsom said:
Thanks for the tips and update @rowlands57. Along with @avidien's recent fluid swap, this is definitely routine/necessary maintenance it seems. Also thanks for mentioning an extractor that works for you, as I'm looking for one that is simple and keeps the mess down. For those interested, I found it on Amazon by searching "Pela Oil Extractor":
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Click to expand...


just FYI, I've logged a total of 7,000 miles now since swapping out the original 75W140 fluid with Royal Purple from Amazon like Rowlands57 and still happy to report everything running smoothly with no issues at all and actually improved mpg.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)




I plan to swap out again after 10,000 miles but will try using this little guy instead of the hand sunction gun

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)



I'll keep everyone posted.
 
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