ER Brake light 'n other braking problems.

[P5inder]

I have a problem with the emergency brake light in the instrument cluster.

Usually, when the ER Brake handle is up, or the hand brake is activated, the light should be on. As soon as the brake is released, the light should turn off...

Recently, the light stays off even with the hand brake on. It also flickered on and off when I braked or accelerated. After checking the owner's manual, I found out that the light would come on when the fluid is low or the ABS sensor has gone bad. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and found it to be low. Filled it and voila, the light went off...unfortunately, its never come on again, except everytime I start the car for a coupleof seconds.

Additionally, the e-brake handle nearly pulls up even with my shoulder and I have recently found what appears to be the rear-right brake line, leaking; although, it could be the caliper itself.

Lastly, I hear one of the brakes binding/squealing as I drive...

Is this a pretty tried-and-true verification that the rear caliper(s) need to be replaced?

I understand that the rear calipers have been a problem on some of the P5's, wearing out prematurely and such.

So, three questions:

When replacing the calipers, can I just get the caliper itself or do I ahve to get the brackets as well?

If I replace the rear calipers would it be necessary to replace the hoses as well?

Would you all recommend going to steel-braided hoses as opposed to buying another set of rubber hoses?


Thanks in advance

 

[P-Funk!]

1. Yep - the leaking caliper triggered the low fluid.
2. The parking brake needs to be adjusted - but after you fix #1.
3. Braided lines will give a better brake 'feel' - more solid. But you don't have to replace them unless worn/cracked/chaffed.
4. No problem with 'calipers wearing out'. The calipers need to be lubed to ensure the pads wear evenly.
5. Inspect all other brake pads and calipers.
6. Consider going with Hawk for a pad upgrade at this time.
7. No brackets needed - just the caliper itself. I bought mine at NAPA and they came with pads. (If you need just ONE set of rear stock pads - pm for a cheap deal).

Read the maunal for the procedures. Good luck!

 

[DaleNixon]

This might be a dumb question, but does the manual cover brake pad and possibly rotor replacement?

I've read plenty of detailed guides on doing the front brakes but most of what I've come up with for the rears is "be careful they're tricky" then just a few vague hints about it.

My pads are getting close to needing replacement, and I think I'll go ahead and paint the calipers while I'm doing that.

Any good recommendations on rotor + pad combos that are easy to work with, look good (in the case of the rotors), but won't blow the bank? I'm strictly street anyway.

 

[gottacatchup]

This might be a dumb question, but does the manual cover brake pad and possibly rotor replacement?

I've read plenty of detailed guides on doing the front brakes but most of what I've come up with for the rears is "be careful they're tricky" then just a few vague hints about it.

My pads are getting close to needing replacement, and I think I'll go ahead and paint the calipers while I'm doing that.

Any good recommendations on rotor + pad combos that are easy to work with, look good (in the case of the rotors), but won't blow the bank? I'm strictly street anyway.

Theres a write-up in the How-to section on doing the rear brakes. The only real difference is that you don't open the caliper by pushing on it. Instead there's a set-screw that you turn to open it up. You then just have to re-adjust the screw when you're done. It's not really any more difficult, people just don't know its there.

 

[Clarkbug]

Just a general note... If you do the pads on one side of the back of your car when you swap out the caliper, dont forget to swap them on the other side as well.

DaleNixon, gottacatchup said it perfectly. The only other tricky thing is that you need to pull a clip that holds the emergency brake cable so you can remove it from a bracket, that gives the caliper enough space to swing open. Use the set screw, re-set it when you are done, and its just like changing any other pads.