Engine Fell Out!

[DynoBunny]

Warning to all drivers, I know we've seen these threads but my driver side transmission mount bolt that goes into the frame broke today and dumped my engine out. Only good thing is I was going 5mph after pulling out from a stop. Pictures to come.

BTW the car has 92k miles on it, It's not covered under basic warranty but does anyone know if this is a faulty part that would be covered by the dealer to fix, hate to shell out this cash if I don't have to.

 

[shane02pro5]

My understanding is this was due to not using loctite on the main tranny mount bolt...

 

[DynoBunny]

Well it's not that the bolt came out, it actually broke off. I checked this and torqued it properly before when I heard about it, idk but it will be a b**** to fix right now.

 

[DynoBunny]

Update with pictures:

Damn Axle!

Damn Bolt!

I'll be looking for a BOV if anyone has one for sale.

Got the engine straightened back up, I guess for what happended the damage is minimum, or so I think.

And now just waiting on parts, hopefully Mazda will have everything in stock tommorow.

 

[Tamn]

Oops!

 

[bazooka joe]

wow!

 

[DynoBunny]

YEA THATS WHAT I SAID AT FIRST! "WOW" lol

My advice is that if anyone had that bolt just torqued down and not replaced that they should do so. Mine was torqued down properly according to the recall and just checked not long ago when I had the battery box out for cleaning. It was still tight, so maybe it was stressed when it was loose and it finally broke, idk, just my 2cents.

 

[etipp98]

I hope you went with some type of aftermarket trans mount!

 

[DynoBunny]

Not yet, the mount is fine plus I don't have the extra funds to spend on one right now, I'm gonna get a new bolt, loctite the s*** out of it, and hope for the best.

 

[shane02pro5]

Loctite will keep the bolt from vibrating back out enough to shear... that was the mazda fix and I think a higher grade bolt too.

 

[DynoBunny]

I will definitly use some red loctite and check on a stronger bolt. I think this was an 8.8, should be enough?

Loctite will keep the bolt from vibrating back out enough to shear... that was the mazda fix and I think a higher grade bolt too.

 

[flatlander937]

Metric 8.8 is about equivalent to an SAE grade 5... not sufficient.

It should probably be grade 10.9... possibly 12.9 but that may be overkill and borderline brittle. 10.9 is the metric equivalent of SAE grade 8.

 

[DynoBunny]

I'll check that out when I get a new one.

 

[speed3se-r]

update? i've got my oem bypass valve if you still need it, >5k on it. Free if you want it, you just pay shipping to you ($5-7 bucks i'm assuming), just wanna help a fellow brother out.....plus I used to live in Oak Ridge...almost like family there in knoxville...just let me know.

 

[DynoBunny]

Man I guess I should have kept up on this thread some more. Thank you very much for the offer speed3se-r but I had already ordered a Forge one.

So the car is back together, been back for a little while and running good.

 

[CorkSport]

Man I guess I should have kept up on this thread some more. Thank you very much for the offer speed3se-r but I had already ordered a Forge one.

So the car is back together, been back for a little while and running good.

That is a great place to run a Mazdaspeed 3!

 

[DynoBunny]

Haha, yea they run really good, I keep up in the DSP class with just an intake and some Eibach springs. This was from a fundraiser event this past weekend at Bristol, in was a nice layout considering there was tons of room there.

That is a great place to run a Mazdaspeed 3!

 

[WillD]

Glad you got everything back together that is crazy!

What's the "N" in "NDSP" mean?

 

[DynoBunny]

Novice

 

[CorkSport]

aka conekiller