Driver Side Front Suspension Issues

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2002 Protege 5
Ok so the entire time I've had this car I've been plagued with issues. Mostly suspension issues.

One issues I've not been able to pin down is what appears to be a metal to metal squeak when turning the wheel, and slop in the suspension in this same location in acceleration or when other certain conditions are met.

- The squeak happens only when the car is on the ground, I tried it when it was in the air and nothing. I do not see the spring rotating or binding when I look and turn the wheel.
- The slop in the suspension manifests usually at low speeds (5mph or less) or if I go over rough patches in the road or very large pot holes and you can hear a noise when it settles or smacks the other side of the pothole. This also appears to be parallel with the direction. Another example is sometimes at real low speeds when I go to accelerate it feels like the slight delay on this side then the car (or power) lunges forward a little.
- Both have been there the entire time I have owned the car and the replaced parts lists below did not change either items.
- I also do not detect the any slop on the bearings. Nor do I hear any clunking in the axle (nor tearing on axle boots)
- A-arm ball joint are dry and torn boots, I see NO grease (this is a major clue for me)


Changed components:
- Shocks
- Shock tower hats and bearings
- Lower and upper spring rubber
- Steering tie rod ends (but not the arms)
- End links (connecting to sway bar)
- Front and rear motor mounts (they needed it)



So I'm considering replacing the lower a-arms, the whole car is pretty dry all the balljoints look shot and have torn boots, all 4 motor mounts were torn to one degree or another. So this might lead me to think that the a-arm bushings are shot (lateral instability) and the Balljoints are metal to metal (squeak)


Thoughts, suggestions, opinions?


Thanks!
 
You should replace torn balljoints regardless of whether or not they are the source of your problem. Thats not safe. Have you checked the sway bar bushings?
 
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pretty sure you have to replace the whole control arm for balljoints. they're not serviceable. Metal on metal is typically found in wheel bearings.
 
Question, what is this nylon shim you speak of?

I replaces the strut bearing what ever it's called. Those are plastic with nylon in the middle I believe.



I think I'll order the lower control arms and the sway bar bushings.
 
Question, what is this nylon shim you speak of?

I replaces the strut bearing what ever it's called. Those are plastic with nylon in the middle I believe.



I think I'll order the lower control arms and the sway bar bushings.

Oops! I just picked up your post from the new post icon and didn't realise you got a Protoge. I don't even know what one is ;-). However, CX-5s can creak at the top bush and they have a nylon or ptfe shim they can add under the top plate. I can't imagine it's that different.
 
*" I'm pretty sure I've never seen one in the UK."

(they have them in the UK as well... but the steering wheel is on the wrong side...)

There's plenty here in Canada ... All rusted to hell.

 
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UK would be 323f. They look a little different. with different taillights, bumpers, and no side skirts.

I thought I recognised it as a 323 but it's difficult to put a scale on the photos. We only have the 5 door hatch and the 4 door sedan. That estate never appeared. I did the clutch on a 1.4 engined version quite recently and it is one of the easiest I've done.
 
*" I'm pretty sure I've never seen one in the UK."

(they have them in the UK as well... but the steering wheel is on the wrong side...)

There's plenty here in Canada as well... All rusted to hell.


I sincerely hope my CX-5 doesn't catch that disease!
 
pretty sure you have to replace the whole control arm for balljoints. they're not serviceable. Metal on metal is typically found in wheel bearings.
you can press them out, but it can be a hassle to find an appropriate ball joint because there's at least three different diameters.. there's no oem replaceable part, but I know that the oem ball joint is NOK, at least mine was.. last time I had to weld the ball joint to the arm because it was loosely (same manufacturer of the arm and the ball joint, moog) and I didn't have the time to investigate which one would fit tightly..

I change them every two years because heavy nose diesel on H&R springs (40mm) with bumpy european roads is not so great combination..

LG-D855 on Tapatalk
 
What he said ^^^ pressing in new ball joints is a PITA...

Replacing the whole control arm isn't too much more money and you also get new control arm bushings with it.

(the bushings can be replaced too but that is another PITA).
 
lol actually it's not that hard, you can replace joint and bushings on both arms in less then half an hour with proper tool, but the factor of surprise is present, will it fit or not.. so it's a lot easier and not much more expensive to replace the whole arm..

I've tried yamato, moog, sidem so far.. sidem is junk, the most expensive, other two are pretty solid, next time I'll try to find meyle hd, as they are held for the best aftermarket replaceable suspension parts, at least here in EU.. what's the situation in the States?

LG-D855 on Tapatalk
 
One problem you may run into when removing your control arms is that the bushings have a metal sleeve inside them and the bolt going through it can rust into place.

The nut can be removed but the bolt and sleeve are fused together and you can get the bolt out... Everything just spins.

Luckily that didn't happen on my P5 but it did on my old 626 years ago. I had to use a cut off saw and cut though the bolt. (and we all know how Mazdas like to rust)
 
..., you can replace joint and bushings on both arms in less then half an hour with proper tool, ...

Some guys had to burn the damn bushings out of the arms... (I don't just mean heat it... I mean burn them)

A flamethrower may be the tool of choice...
 
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