Does mileage increase after a while?

Have you reset the Average MPG through the App in the Infotainment console? It doesn't reset with every fill up even if you reset trip A or B on the instrument panel. At your next fill up, reset the average through the Fuel Economy Monitor App in the Infotainment console. Either do that or calculate manually when you reset Trip A or B.

Did this change on newer models?

On my 2013 CX-5 the Avg. Fuel Economy will reset automatically when Trip A odometer is cleared.
 
Yes Mike it did change. With the 2016 it's optional whether it resets with Trip A or or not (chosen thru a setup menu).
 
Yes Mike it did change. With the 2016 it's optional whether it resets with Trip A or or not (chosen thru a setup menu).

Thanks, just changed mine. For anyone wondering, it's not in the normal settings menu, but in the fuel economy monitor settings within the app itself.
 
Did this change on newer models?

On my 2013 CX-5 the Avg. Fuel Economy will reset automatically when Trip A odometer is cleared.

Interesting... they must have changed that behavior. Mine has to be manually reset. I reset "A" at each fuel fill and have never seen average economy reset automatically.
 
That's a lot of pressure. About 44 psi after driving, even in 30* weather. 47 or so on a hot day. I'd keep an eye on Treadway patterns.

Tire max pressure is 51psi (hot) so 44psi (hot) is quite fine. I've been doing that on all my vehicles for over 20 years and never had a tread wearing issue.

Remember, the tires peak load rating is ONLY achieved at max tire pressure (hot). Anything below that and the tire's load ratings drop. That's why trailer tires are always set to max psi as are trucks when carrying loads.

On my Corvette it clearly states in the owners manual that when doing high-speed runs the tire pressure MUST be taken to max for safety and to ensure high speed stability. So I run them max psi (hot) and the car is glued to the road at high speeds.

For the CX5 the higher tire pressure equals less rolling resistance and better MPG. In addition it provides higher load ratings if I am carrying passengers or towing.

The max load rating on the sidewall of the tire is ONLY achieved when the tire is at max psi. If you run 30 psi in a 50 psi tire, the load rating drops by about 30%, that's a fact. Not to mention the tire will run A LOT hotter at high speeds with a lower psi. Hot tires = blow outs
 
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Tire pressure is ALWAYS specified cold. Of course it will rise as the tires heat up, that's normal. In fact, with higher cold psi you will actually see a smaller percentage gain in PSI (vs. a lower cold psi). 40 psi cold is 3 psi higher than what I've found to be optimum with my setup but is not very far off the mark.

How did you determine "optimum"? With my cars, I just laid down some rubber, and then looked at the treadmarks left and inflated/deflated based on whether the edges or center was darker, until I got an even contact patch. Somehow I don't think this works quite like that in a CX-5. Treadwear monitoring over time?

Specified psi for the CX-5 is significantly lower than 40, hot or cold.
 
Tire max pressure is 51psi (hot) so 44psi (hot) is quite fine. I've been doing that on all my vehicles for over 20 years and never had a tread wearing issue.

Remember, the tires peak load rating is ONLY achieved at max tire pressure (hot). Anything below that and the tire's load ratings drop. That's why trailer tires are always set to max psi as are trucks when carrying loads.

On my Corvette it clearly states in the owners manual that when doing high-speed runs the tire pressure MUST be taken to max for safety and to ensure high speed stability. So I run them max psi (hot) and the car is glued to the road at high speeds.

For the CX5 the higher tire pressure equals less rolling resistance and better MPG. In addition it provides higher load ratings if I am carrying passengers or towing.

Yes, but in your corvette, if the tire pressure is too high, you have a much smaller contact patch, less traction, etc. Same for any vehicle, really. I want as much tread as I can get on the road, on the road. Otherwise why not just run really skinny tires properly inflated, instead? Same contact patch as a wider tire that's over-inflated, and less wind resistance due to cross-section, AND less weight. WIN WIN WIN! So...?
 
Doesn't the manual call for basic 87 octane? If so, that top tier 91 seems a waste.


It's only 15 cents difference between 87 vs 91. Ten gallons x .15 cents = $1.50 Top Tier gas is found at some Costco's, QT's and other gas stations. It's a cleaner fuel with more additives.

The 91 octane performs better than the 87 octane in my Mazda. Can I prove it with some scientific test? No. But my Mazda seems to be more responsive and peppier with the 91 octane. It's just my opinion. It's well worth the $1.50 per tank fill up.

The 2.5L has the highest compression ratio at 13.0:1 and running premium just gives me a peace of mind. I ran 87 octane in my Mazda and when climbing a hill under load I did hear some detonation in my Mazda and the computer definitely cut timing and the car lost some HP but the detonation stopped.

In my Vette I must run 91 octane to avoid detonation even though the compression ratio is less than the Mazda at 10.7:1

Once you are over 10.5:1 compression then 89-91 octane must be used. Once over 11.0:1 then 91 octane is mandatory. I do understand the Mazda uses special headers and timing software to prevent detonation but for me it's just a peace of mind.

Do a test yourself. Put in 87 octane and take the CX5 up a 7% grade with 2 or more people inside. Make sure the radio is off so you can hear the engine. The detonation occurs but it's quick and fast because the computer will pull timing once the knock sensors signal the ECM.
 
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Yes, but in your corvette, if the tire pressure is too high, you have a much smaller contact patch, less traction, etc. Same for any vehicle, really. I want as much tread as I can get on the road, on the road. Otherwise why not just run really skinny tires properly inflated, instead? Same contact patch as a wider tire that's over-inflated, and less wind resistance due to cross-section, AND less weight. WIN WIN WIN! So...?

Depends on the tire you are using and what you are doing:

A - If you are doing 1/4 mile drag racing and using a soft side wall tire. Then yes, running LOWER pressure will help the car launch from a dead stop.

B - The opposite is true when running high speeds & cornering with a stiff sidewall. You want HIGHER pressure to prevent the sidewall from buckling in high G-turns and to prevent the tire from overheating.

That's why 1/4 mile drag car tires will "wrinkle" the sidewall when launching.
You definitely DO NOT want the sidewall wrinkling when do an autocross course and a high speed run. That will result in a blown tire and serious injury/death. Going in a straight line vs making 1.00+ G turns at high speeds require different approaches and tire technology.
 
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It's only 15 cents difference between 87 vs 91. Ten gallons x .15 cents = $1.50 Top Tier gas is found at some Costco's, QT's and other gas stations. It's a cleaner fuel with more additives.

The 91 octane performs better than the 87 octane in my Mazda. Can I prove it with some scientific test? No. But my Mazda seems to be more responsive and peppier with the 91 octane. It's just my opinion. It's well worth the $1.50 per tank fill up.
That sounds like placebo effect to me.

The 2.5L has the highest compression ratio at 13.0:1 and running premium just gives me a peace of mind. I ran 87 octane in my Mazda and when climbing a hill under load I did hear some detonation in my Mazda and the computer definitely cut timing and the car lost some HP but the detonation stopped. Interesting. Definitely NOT placebo. However, it does mean that either the gas you got is not actually 87 octane, or your vehicle has problems.

In my Vette I must run 91 octane to avoid detonation even though the compression ratio is less than the Mazda at 10.7:1

Once you are over 10.5:1 compression then 89-91 octane must be used. Once over 11.0:1 then 91 octane is mandatory. I do understand the Mazda uses special headers and timing software to prevent detonation but for me it's just a peace of mind.
Static, and dynamic compression ratios are different, also, and the whole reason is due to flame front propagation. Mazda uses special pistons that alter this concern.

Do a test yourself. Put in 87 octane and take the CX5 up a 7% grade with 2 or more people inside. Make sure the radio is off so you can hear the engine. The detonation occurs but it's quick and fast because the computer will pull timing once the knock sensors signal the ECM.

I will have to check out this detonation issue you speak of. I do know I can hear injectors snapping/pulsing, are you sure that's not what you're hearing is the injector duty cycle changing? It's a 2800psi system and is LOUD!
 
Depends on the tire you are using and what you are doing:

A - If you are doing 1/4 mile drag racing and using a soft side wall tire. Then yes, running LOWER pressure will help the car launch from a dead stop.

B - The opposite is true when running high speeds & cornering with a stiff sidewall. You want HIGHER pressure to prevent the sidewall from buckling in high G-turns and to prevent the tire from overheating.

That's why 1/4 mile drag car tires will "wrinkle" the sidewall when launching.
You definitely DO NOT want the sidewall wrinkling when do an autocross course and a high speed run. That will result in a blown tire and serious injury/death. Going in a straight line vs making 1.00+ G turns at high speeds require different approaches and tire technology.

The tires are made to operate properly at a hair over 30psi (Cold) in your 'vette. The side wall is designed with this in mind. Also, if you track that car hard, you will notice about a 10-15psi gain in pressure. If you are starting at 40, you may end up near 60 when it's hot, and I promise you that you're giving away a LOT of contact patch. Even on low-profile tires, you give away contact patch big time. I know I did a LOT of spinning in my WS.6 at the track, and when I got home, I laid down some rubber and low and behold, the contact patch was terrible. Adjusted pressure and got it even/right.
 
It's only 15 cents difference between 87 vs 91. Ten gallons x .15 cents = $1.50

Man where do you live that it's only 15 cent variation between the two? In cali the difference between 87 and 89 is .20 cents or more. 91 is around .30-.35cents more per gallon
 
I don't know if I should be feeling elated or quizzical about my own numbers. I'm now close to 1700 miles, and the last trip that I measured myself with miles/gallons used, I averaged 30mpg (342/11.4)
I do 70% of my commutes in highways without much traffic, and since getting a new car, I've changed my driving habits for the better (not racing to the stop light)
Mine is a 2016 cx-5 GT FWD.
 
I don't know if I should be feeling elated or quizzical about my own numbers. I'm now close to 1700 miles, and the last trip that I measured myself with miles/gallons used, I averaged 30mpg (342/11.4)
I do 70% of my commutes in highways without much traffic, and since getting a new car, I've changed my driving habits for the better (not racing to the stop light)
Mine is a 2016 cx-5 GT FWD.
Sounds about right for the FWD version. I think the AWD uses a lot more fuel than it is billed to use, compared to the FWD versions, after reading this forum for a while. So far this tank, about 70% highway/30% city, I'm at around 23mpg. Also including some idling time that dropped me around 1mpg.
 
When I do drive the Mazda, the mileage hovers around 24-26. 35 kilometer drive to work with about half of it on the autobahn at around 100mph. the rest is at about 65-70 mph unless I get stuck behind a Semi, which happens often. (bang)
 
Resurrecting this old thread because now that its warmer here in the northern hemisphere, complaints about mileage have noticeably dropped (no posts since Feb). Winter gas is probably off the market.

Seemed like a good time to mention that I had the highest mileage I've seen yet on the 200 mile trip between Austin and Dallas this week @ 34.5 mpg. It was somewhat rainy most of the way, keeping speeds down around 70 mph for the most part. The weather was clear and mild the way back, meaning I could keep close to 80 mph the whole way, which lowered whole trip mpg to about 32.5 (still a great number)
 
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