Does anyone use conventional oil in their newer CX-5?

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2018 CX-5 Sport
As long as the oil weight is right, it seems to be the owner's personal choice to use synthetic or the less expensive conventional oil. Is anyone using conventional oil?
 
Technically our owners manual says only to use SAE 0W-20 oil certified for gasoline engine by API for non-turbo 2.5L. But it would be very difficult to find a conventional 0W-20 oil and most of them are full synthetic.

But for new 2.5T therere plenty of conventional or blend 5W-30 oil around. Due to very high heat from turbo charger, full systhrtic oil should be used. VW didnt enforce full synthetic oil in early 2,000s for its 1.8T and result was not pretty. The conventional oil got cooked in turbo charger caused oil sludge issue, and class-action lawsuit followed.

Besides, last time I checked, conventional oil is not much cheaper than synthetic oil like the old days. And I have been using full synthetic oil on all of my newer vehicles for the last 20 years. Only my 183K-mile 1998 Honda CR-V uses 5W-30 Castrol GTX conventional oil since its new.
 
Technically our owner*s manual says only to use SAE 0W-20 oil *certified for gasoline engine* by API for non-turbo 2.5L. But it would be very difficult to find a conventional 0W-20 oil and most of them are full synthetic.

But for new 2.5T there*re plenty of conventional or blend 5W-30 oil around. Due to very high heat from turbo charger, full systhrtic oil should be used. VW didn*t enforce full synthetic oil in early 2,000*s for its 1.8T and result was not pretty. The conventional oil got cooked in turbo charger caused oil sludge issue, and class-action lawsuit followed.

Besides, last time I checked, conventional oil is not much cheaper than synthetic oil like the old days. And I have been using full synthetic oil on all of my newer vehicles for the last 20 years. Only my 183K-mile 1998 Honda CR-V uses 5W-30 Castrol GTX conventional oil since it*s new.

After searching, you are right. I could not find conventional 0w-20 weight oil. There are plenty of cheap 5w-20 non synthetic oils but our cars don't call for that weight.
 
There are cheaper synthetic blends for 0w-20, but I'd stick with full synthetic for a few pennies more.
 
Can get a 5 qt. jug of synthetic oil from Walmart for around $20-$25. Why even consider an oil that you should not be using in a Mazda Skyactiv engine?
 
Can get a 5 qt. jug of synthetic oil from Walmart for around $20-$25. Why even consider an oil that you should not be using in a Mazda Skyactiv engine?

I agree, and coupled with 7500 mile oil changes, the cost is so minimal to even consider, if there really is one anyways...
 
Agree with my esteemed colleagues. What are you going to save? $10? Use the good stuff.
 
I don't know why you would. Synthetic oil lasts longer so you save in the long run.
 
I have never let my Direct injection motors go 7500 miles between changes...the fuel dilution isn't worth the risk...of course my 5000 miles is all hills and mountains and traffic...and I was still adding Liquid moly at every change too.
 
I have never let my Direct injection motors go 7500 miles between changes...the fuel dilution isn't worth the risk...of course my 5000 miles is all hills and mountains and traffic...and I was still adding Liquid moly at every change too.

What risk? Lol

The numerous oil analysis posted here and the overwhelming results from Blackstone kind of are enough to debunk the fuel dilution risk for *most*. Think Colorado drives really similar to you, and his oil analysis has easily shown a 7500 mile oil interval change is easily obtained with no worries, however, 5-7500 Miles is the overall ticket, and you can*t really go wrong within those intervals. Anything less I think is overkill, along with adding extra Moly...
 
Only issue I see running to 7500 miles is that I probably need to add a quart around the 5k mile mark. Outside of that though, the analysis reports have been great. I think 7500 miles will be my limit though. I usually did every 5k, but reports seem to indicate that that was overkill.
 
I thought the Skyactive 2.5 engines required a higher dose of Moly so I've been ordering Mazda's 0-20W synthetic.
 
in Usa the "manual" asks for 0w20, doesnt matter for moly.
While technically you could with any 0w20 if you want to follow manual recommendations.
 
Moly comes in different forms. While Mazda branded 0w20 oil has high levels of regular moly, some oil use trinuclesr moly which has fewer ppm vs regular moly, but is effective at its respective numbers.

MPG might be the only real gain in using Mazda Moly 0w20 oil from what I've seen posted.
 
Have you checked your dealers for the price on 0W20 synthetic? We sell the Mazda stuff for around $6.50/litre, which is much cheaper than places like NAPA or Canadian tire.
 
It is impossible to find dyno oil with 0w20.
You can only find synthetic blend, or full synthetic of that grade.
After the powertrain warranty expires, you can do whatever you want...
 
I have never let my Direct injection motors go 7500 miles between changes...the fuel dilution isn't worth the risk...of course my 5000 miles is all hills and mountains and traffic...and I was still adding Liquid moly at every change too.

What risk? Lol

The numerous oil analysis posted here and the overwhelming results from Blackstone kind of are enough to debunk the fuel dilution risk for *most*.
No risk might apply to Mazda, but if you have a Honda with the 1.5L turbo, you'd better change the oil every 500 miles....lol
 
Agree with my esteemed colleagues. What are you going to save? $10? Use the good stuff.

Totally.
I've been using synthetics for close to 15 years now, and firmly believe it's made a difference in the vehicles I've owned, past and present.
 
Totally.
I've been using synthetics for close to 15 years now, and firmly believe it's made a difference in the vehicles I've owned, past and present.

Does the 2017 2.5L require frequent top offs? Im at 6k, and the oil level looked good last week. Maybe I got lucky?
 
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