Do I need to replace the Master and Slave Cylinders?

bandido

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Mazda Protege 5
Problem: Clutch pedal is getting stuck when I push down for more than a few seconds. Some days more than others. I had the same problem 2 years ago and a Mazda expert mechanic told me that I needed to replace the Master and Slave Cylinders. He did that with after-market parts and the car was fine for 1 year. So the problem came back and Ive been driving the car like that for about a year now. I minimize the symptoms by changing the way I drive.

I finally took it to a different mechanic and he told me that the Master and Slave Cylinders needed to be replaced again cause the after-market parts dont last long. He did the diagnostic without test-driving the car; just based on the information I gave him. So I ordered the genuine Mazda parts online and saved about $60. I called a different mechanic, since the one that told me to buy genuine parts has not returned my calls. The new mechanic asked me if there was a leak to which I answered no. He told me that then the problem was something else. Now Im confused since replacing the Master and Slave cylinders fixed the problem the first time (although it only lasted 1 year).

Which of the 2 mechanics is telling the truth? Did I waste money by ordering those parts?
 
I had my slave cylinder replaced a few years ago with aftermarket and it lasted a few months before I swapped it out with OEM. It's been good ever since.
 
I've been running an aftermarket Centric slave cylinder since June with no troubles...Also replaced the clutch line with stainless steel braided hose from Goodridge at the time, and that seems to have made all the difference...Next on the list is the Exedy master cylinder (OEM from what I understand) which can be had for about $15 to the door from Rockauto...

overall, pedal feel has greatly improved since I did it, however I still get a bit of notchy shifting and catch synchros at times going into 1st from 2nd. Part of that I think is the gear oil I'm using, and I plan to swap it out come spring with some Redline MTL or BG from the Valvoline 75/90 synthetic I'm using now...
 
... I plan to swap it out come spring with some Redline MTL or BG from the Valvoline 75/90 synthetic I'm using now...

You might want to consider synchromesh oil.

My car would grind every gear in the winter till it was warmed up.
It shifts smoothly all the time now.
 
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