DIY ATF sticky needed?

[OilGuy]

I'm surprised that there is no ATF sticky in the Transmission Section - I think one would be helpful. I'll throw my 2 cents in below:

Key ATF Notes:
- Quote from this 2008 Mazda TSB 05-005/08: "ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IS NOT THE SAME FLUID AS MERCONV ATF." (here is a link to the document text: http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/05-005-08.html)
- Mazda part number for ATF M-V (aka Type M5) is 0000-77-112E-01
- Mazda 5 manuals do not specify an ATF change/flush interval at all
- Fluid color can be misleading as guide as a "time to change" indicator, but fluids are relatively cheap vs tranny problem fixes
- Other than Mazda-branded ATF Type:M5 (aka ATF M-V), I am not aware that Mazda publishes a list of ATF approvals or list of other branded products that meet all ATF Type M5(M-V) performance requirements
- See a Type M5 quart label picture here: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/M5-AUTO-TRANS-FLUID-(0000%2d77%2d112E%2d01).html
- Some companies may recommend their ATF verbally or in writing; there is no documentation for an end user to reference to validate the suitability for use, so use your own judgment
- Not all car dealers use OEM spec or tested/approved fluids (even more so with service shops/quick lubes); even if they sell some branded products, many use the cheapest mystery brand oil they can find for their high volume oils (like ATF) - suggest you inquire about or view any bulk tank or drum where Type M5 (M-V) ATF is claimed to be used
- Flushing machines may be pre-filled with other types of ATF, so if you are to get a flush, would recommend to ensure that the proper Type M5 (M-V) fluid you desire will be used (changing ATF fluids on the fly may or may not be possible with the machine). The "cleaning" flush oil may still remain and mix with the "final" fill oil.

DIY Drain Pan Method ATF Swaps:
- using my personal experience on ramps on a slightly inclined driveway - with hot ATF (at operating temperature) verified to be at the bottom "OK range" dipstick mark before using ramps
- depending on the degree of ATF swapping, buy quarts of ATF Type:M5 (aka M-V) (for ~61% swap/2 drains, buy 7 qts; for ~76% swap/3 drains, buy 10; for ~85% swap/4 drains, buy 13)
- also consider buying 1 additional qt - just in case you burp out a bit or spill - hate to not finish a job if you don't have the right amount of fluid
- gather ramps, tools to remove bottom cover, 8 mm Allen key, catch pan, old flattened box to catch drips/spills, small diameter funnel, jug/container(s) to transfer drained oil into for recycling, paper/shop towels - safety glasses are a good idea too
- remove the bottom plastic cover to reveal the black ATF pan near the driver's side front tire
- use a big ~8 mm Allen wrench to remove the ATF drain plug
- drain into catch pan - I measured ~3.2 qt drained from my pan
- with a vacuum extractor device/pump with poly tubing, I was able to suck ~3 oz from the dipstick tube after the drain pan was empty (without draining from the pan, I was able to extract ~2 quarts via the dipstick tube)
- given the 8.6 qt total transmission capacity noted in my manual, I was able to swap out ~38% (~3.25 qt) of the ATF
- add ATF down the ATF dipstick tube using a small diameter, long neck funnel - BE CAREFUL to pour new in quite slowly or the tube will "burp" air and overflow/spray ATF out the top of the ATF dipstick tube or funnel (and possibly onto you - safety glasses may help here)
- drive around a little to mix new and old ATF well and ensure ATF is hot (operating temp)
- drain and fill again to get to a ~61% swap
- mix, drain and fill again to get to a 76% swap
- if desired, mix, drain and fill again to get to a 85% swap
- going beyond 76%/85% would remove only ~0.8/0.5 qt of old ATF out of 3.25 qt drained- perhaps the point of diminishing returns?
- reinstall bottom cover and validate proper ATF dipstick fill level

Notes:
- Remember to have the ATF at operating temp when checking the dipstick level - and have the car running and level when checking the dipstick
- A vacuum extractor/pump device is helpful to adjust the fill amount if you happen to overfill
- I measured 814 net grams of Mazda ATF Type:M5 ATF fluid per quart (I used a scale to perform measurements) - fill quantities may vary even if the labels say 1 qt

Happy times taking care of your Mazda 5!

 

[lakersfan1]

Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid is Mazda ATF-MV rated.

No need to waste all that fluid redoing a drain and fill over and over. A flush doesn't require a machine. Just need to pull a tube from the ATF cooler, put an extra section of tubing on the other end. The sucking end goes in a fresh bottle, and the end that blows goes in the waste oil catch. Just need a buddy to put the tranny in and out of gear while the car is on. Keep taking out of gear to switch bottles of ATF. Repeat until fluid runs clean and red.

 

[OilGuy]

That sounds like an option. I have not looked into the ATF cooler option.

 

[OilGuy]

I have searched the forums to find the output of the oil cooler next to the transmission, but the posts allude to the suction from the oil pan/reservoir. Are you suggesting to pull the pan to gain access to the suction? If not, what suction point are you referring to?

If there is no other suction point, then (per HouRman at http:// w w w . m a z d a 3 f o r u m s . c o m / i n d e x .p h p ? t o p i c = 66369.0) drain the pan (~3.x qt), refill the pan via dipstick tube with ~3.x qt of fresh ATF, disconnect the oil cooler output line and attach clear tubing routed to catch container, safely start car and put into gear (which engages the transmission pump) with both brakes on to cycle out 3 qts before refilling 3 qts and repeating till the output color is clear red.

 

[lakersfan1]

Where you disconnect the cooler line, one terminus sucks and the other blows. You want clear tubing on the blow end so you can see the color of the outgoing fluid.

 

[golftango]

Or you can just do a drain/fill 3Xs driving a little in between each change.

 

[lakersfan1]

Or you can just do a drain/fill 3Xs driving a little in between each change.

IF you don't mind wasting extra fluid and still leaving about 25% (68% old fluid each flush, so .68^3) of the old fluid in after 3 cycles of drain and fills. It's more work in the end, though, for less effectiveness.

 

[red headz]

No need to waste all that fluid redoing a drain and fill over and over. A flush doesn't require a machine. Just need to pull a tube from the ATF cooler, put an extra section of tubing on the other end. The sucking end goes in a fresh bottle, and the end that blows goes in the waste oil catch. Just need a buddy to put the tranny in and out of gear while the car is on. Keep taking out of gear to switch bottles of ATF. Repeat until fluid runs clean and red.

Can you post a picture of the above setup? I need to flush our M5 in the next month or so. It's about 6months overdue.

michael.