Dirtysouth's Project Thread

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2003.5 Blazing Yellow MSP (Forged)
What up guys? Well it's finally almost time. I've been accumulating parts for the last 3 months and I'm about to the point where I have everything that I need for the first stage. Basically I'm going forged and upgrading a bunch of other s*** while the motor is out. I run the office side of things at a shop and will have 3 ASE certified mechanics plus myself working on the install.

The following is a list of what I have or will have when its all said and done:

SITTING IN LIVING ROOM:
- MAM built short block
- Cometic multi-layer head gasket
- Cometic full gasket set
- Exedy stage 1 clutch
- SPEC aluminum flywheel
- steel braided clutch line
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- AEM wideband
- Hose Techniques vac hose kit
- AWR rear motor mount
- AWR deep sump, baffled oil pan (if it will fit with the exhaust)
- Perrin fuel rail
- JDM STI (EJ22) Injectors 560cc
- Protege Garage IM

To be ordered soon:
- GT28rs
- Greddy Type S or RS (going to relocate MAF)

INSTALLED:
- Unichip (will be retuned by a shop here in GA)
- Vibrant exhaust
- HiBoost FMIC Kit
- Injen "SRI" with custom heatsheild
- AWR front motor mount
- Kartboy shifter & bushings
- Corksport bronzeoil shifter bushings
- Rotorwork cross-drilled & slotted rotors (front & rear)
- Axxis Metal-Master brake pads (front & rear)
- AutoMeter Ultralight boost/vac guage
- Greddy TT
- Memphis & Diamond Audio system I spent way too much on, lol

EVENTUALLY:
- Quaife LSD.
- Suspension upgrades.

Anybody have any suggestions or advice? Other than, use a different EMS, because it has to be able to pass emissions testing.

I will probably be selling a s***-load of stock parts here pretty soon so be on the lookout for me in the for sale section.
 
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35 views and no comments or suggestions? Where are all the hardcore guys with built motors? Does Anyone have a setup like this & want to chime in? Where are the vendors trying to sell me s***, lol?
 
so what are you doing about an S-pipe?? Does the stock one even bolt up to the 28rs?? Doesn't seem practical to have spent that much and leave that peice stock. Looks like fun though, i'm jealous.... :)
 
jmv said:
so what are you doing about an S-pipe?? Does the stock one even bolt up to the 28rs?? Doesn't seem practical to have spent that much and leave that peice stock. Looks like fun though, i'm jealous.... :)

Yeah, the GT28rs will fit right in after you clock it and modify the position of the actuator. S-pipe upgrades have not really shown much in the way of hp gains. It's really the least of my worries.

I am thinking about getting the Corksport piece, but it seems to break too easy and really does not look that great. I think it's like 5 or 6 different little peices of piping all welded together. I have motormounts and all, but still. Any one have an s-pipe they want to sell?
 
INSTALLED:
- Unichip (will be retuned by a shop here in GA)
Got the Unichip system, but what shop did you have it tuned by/ installed? BTW mine is uninstalled
 
Mr.E said:
INSTALLED:
- Unichip (will be retuned by a shop here in GA)
Got the Unichip system, but what shop did you have it tuned by/ installed? BTW mine is uninstalled

I installed it myself and it will be retuned after all the work is done by Battleground Engineering in Smyrna, GA. I can help you with the install if you would like. It only takes an hour or so. Shoot me a PM.
 
Before you order injectors I highly suggest you think of getting larger than 440's. With all that you are doing being held back by injectors probably won't make you happy.

I am currently using 440's and they are maxed in the upper revs (only for a split second) on 14-15 psi on the stock turbo. I did tune it pretty rich but still it shows that they have hardly anything left in them.

Edit: Oh yeah, the corksport S+J pipes are nice. When you see the stocker off you can tell how small it really is. If you do get those do not use the stock bolts for the S to J flange, trust me (ughdance)
 
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I would highly recommend putting in at least a welded diff while everything is out. My stocker let go after basically babying my car for 32k miles. After all that you are doing, why roll the dice on something that will leave you parked for a while if it lets go, with additional labor headaches to boot? Sweet project, btw. Good luck with everything and keep us posted.
 
There seems to be quite a bit of research with the mods you have and are planning to do. Good job on that. I would do like has been said and at least weld the diff to add support to the spot welds where they are prone to breaking. Good luck.
 
03MSP said:
Before you order injectors I highly suggest you think of getting larger than 440's. With all that you are doing being held back by injectors probably won't make you happy.

I am currently using 440's and they are maxed in the upper revs (only for a split second) on 14-15 psi on the stock turbo. I did tune it pretty rich but still it shows that they have hardly anything left in them.

Edit: Oh yeah, the corksport S+J pipes are nice. When you see the stocker off you can tell how small it really is. If you do get those do not use the stock bolts for the S to J flange, trust me (ughdance)

What up man? Trying to put that motor to good use! (I got the MAM block from 03MSP.)

So your maxing out the 440's already? How rich are you running when they are maxxed? You think I should be shooting for 550's? I'm worried anything bigger than 440's is gonna make it a b**** to get the idle and low rpms right.

Does anyone know what kind of wiring modifications are required for these 550's from Ken?
http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=21_32_167&products_id=480

Anyone know where I can get bigger injectors bigger than 440cc that are plug n' play? RC Engineering maybe?
http://www.rceng.com/

Maybe I should do more research about adding an extra injector. I know it is possible with the unichip, but I'm not aware of anyone that has done it yet on a protege.
 
Yeah, I know I should probably weld the diff while the motor is out. Does any one have pics of where the placement of the welds needs to be? I know I could probably search and find it if not.

Here are some pics to start with. The block and some of the other stuff is at the shop. I'll take pics after Christmas. The pics of the car are a few months old. The intake/airfilter heatshield was not in yet. It basically just blocks off the corner where the air filter is from the rest of the engine bay. Also I have a yellow DGM grille on the car now that I got from Jeff@Tri-Point.
 

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Yeah I'm excited to see that block actually getting some action haha.

Attatched is a welded LSD, courtesy of CrazyCaker.

Microtech is saying I'm at max duty at around 6000 RPM, just for one unit of datalogging time (not sure how short it is...but it's short). My AFR's there are low low 11's.

I'm sure the 440's would be fine, but with all that you are doing I was assuming you would be shooting for more boost. If I were to take a guess (not a very educated guess I might add) the 440's will probably take you up to 13-14 psi on the GT28RS, assuming you are running the same AFR's I am, which are pretty rich. With the lower compression you will have it might be fine to run upper 11's.

Not sure how injector swapping works with the Unichip, can plug anything in to the Microtech :p
 

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Dirtysouth, where in ATL are you? Come check out the GA section. Sorry if I've missed your post in there.
 
03MSP said:
Yeah I'm excited to see that block actually getting some action haha.

Attatched is a welded LSD, courtesy of CrazyCaker.

Microtech is saying I'm at max duty at around 6000 RPM, just for one unit of datalogging time (not sure how short it is...but it's short). My AFR's there are low low 11's.

I'm sure the 440's would be fine, but with all that you are doing I was assuming you would be shooting for more boost. If I were to take a guess (not a very educated guess I might add) the 440's will probably take you up to 13-14 psi on the GT28RS, assuming you are running the same AFR's I am, which are pretty rich. With the lower compression you will have it might be fine to run upper 11's.

Not sure how injector swapping works with the Unichip, can plug anything in to the Microtech :p

Yeah, we have to retain obd2 monitoring/interface capabilities to pass emissions and get our tag. Basically, the emissions computer has to be able to interface to see if there are any stored fault codes in the ecu. I do not know of a standalone that keeps that capability. I could be wrong though.

I'll probably start with the 440's. But, I'm also going to talk to Battleground Engineering and see if they have any experience with adding extra injector setups on the Unichip. They probably have not done it on a Protege, but maybe something with a similar setup. If they can do it, that would be the best way to retain stock-like idle and driveability in the lower rpms. 440's + an extra that only sprays when absolutely needed would be more than enough I'm sure. Injector duty cycle should not really go above 80%. When you say max duty do you mean 100% duty cyle or 80%?
 
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Rogue said:
Dirtysouth, where in ATL are you? Come check out the GA section. Sorry if I've missed your post in there.

Actually in Gwinnett. I know Scott (Velocifero) and have met a few of the other guys. Not sure why I have not been in the GA section much. Just been real busy and usually when I'm on the forum I'm just searching and reading like a fiend, lol. I'll have to come out to one of the meets again sometime soon.
 
dirtysouth_msp said:
Injector duty cycle should not really go above 80%. When you say max duty do you mean 100% duty cyle or 80%?

I've been wondering this for a while now, just haven't asked Steve or anyone that might know. It saying Max Duty leads me to believe it's 100% (Microtech only shows milliseconds of injectors, not duty cycle). It'd be nice if it was 80% though.

Speaking of that, if you had the injector open time (ms) and the RPM, could you calculate duty cylce? It seems to me that you could but I haven't really sat down to try to figure it out yet.
 
If you're thinking of bigger injectors you might look at the Sti "pinks" from the j-spec WRX Sti. They are the ones installed on the motor I got from Fountain Motorsports, and they ran around 11 psi from a modified GT25. IIRC, they are 565 cc/min. Not sure if they drop in or not b/c I don't think the fuel rail on my motor is stock. There's info on them around here somewhere.
 
the JDM STi Pinks are the same size as the blue WRX 440's so they will drop in. 565cc sounds right. Must be the JDM top feed though.
 
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